Exhaust valve mod

[waynies]

Hi,
For those you who did the exhaust mod, did you guys find it hard to remove the module? I tried quite a few times but only managed to have my fingernail cracked. Any pointers? I tried to push down the clip but it doesnt really go down.

Thanks

[michael3435]

squeeze more proximally on the connector near where it meets the wire

[waynies]

Originally Posted by michael3435

squeeze more proximally on the connector near where it meets the wire

Cant seem to find a good position for my arm and hand to give enough force.....

[Pennzoil]

i opened the module before , i used small saw cut the " motor " side corner a bit.... then used the screw drive to open the rest of part... beware the screw drive hurt the circuit board


you can see this thread
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1144586

[shu5892001]

because ur dumb

[jordanc15]

It should depress pretty easily. Check out my thread for my valve delete kit. I have some good pictures of the clips and you can clearly see the small lever you need to press on. Shouldn't take too much force if you push it all the way.

[Bluex]

Save yourself some trouble and simply use a pair of small pliers with the top part grasping and softly squeezing the top clip and pull gently. Comes off in a sec, easily.

The right one however is a bit more challenging due to spacial concerns....just not as easy to get the pliers up there on that side. But it definitely works and saves your fingers.

[MrCsquared]

Mine came out very easily. 30 seconds to remove both sides total. Good luck!

[waynies]

Thanks guys ive managed to pull them out with my hands after few tries

[shu5892001]

Originally Posted by waynies

Thanks guys ive managed to pull them out with my hands after few tries

[Acetech]

May I ask why would you want to do this mod?
In sport plus the valves are open constantly(except cold start).
So what is to be gained?

[shu5892001]

Originally Posted by Acetech

May I ask why would you want to do this mod?
In sport plus the valves are open constantly(except cold start).
So what is to be gained?

To keep the valve open in sport as well, so you can have loud exhaust and auto rev match.

It also makes cold start sound mean as hell.

[Bluex]

Originally Posted by Acetech

May I ask why would you want to do this mod?
In sport plus the valves are open constantly(except cold start).
So what is to be gained?

This is not entirely true.

There are circumstances where, even in Sport + where the valves close. For example at certain rpm ranges in higher gears in DCT where drone has been confirmed. (look at the sticky thread discussing sound) The valves will close.

Having this valve mod keeps the same exhaust note throughout all ranges, and thus will give you drone (on a DCT) in the higher gears. But as previously mentioned, with this mod you can get the consistent note without losing rev matching in 6MT.

Personally, I did love the sound this mod gives you and the drone didn't bother me much at all.

That being said, I plugged mine back in for a couple reasons. I drive primarily in Sport + throttle (having that exhaust note while cruising in 7th isn't important to me) and I don't like the idea of a code being registered constantly.

Additionally there has been some "talk" that there may be some low end torque loss by a couple people, but honestly nobody has provided any actual evidence of this. One person stated their dealership tech stated the valves had a "performance function, not just sound", and another person speculated that there could be a performance loss due to lack of back pressure. (unsure how that could be true in a turbo car) There have been a few requests for someone to dyno their car pre mod and post mod, but as of yet nobody has provided this.

My butt dyno is terribly inconsistent and I don't THINK I can perceive any torque loss.....but in certain scenarios I almost think there was. But again, very inaccurate.

Again, I drive primarily in Sport + so the need for this mod isn't of prime importance. However, if I drove in Efficient or Sport most of the time and particularly had 6MT, I can see how this could be a must.

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

I decided I wanted to plug the valves back in because I am about to go JB4 and wanted to utilize the CAN feature for the valves.

Ran into an issue, however. Once plugged in, neither valve is moving at all or even making any noise. Is this normal(I.e. does it take a few ignition cycles to work again) or do I need to have the code cleared to make them work again? They're both stuck in the open position.

[2HIGH~PSI]

Have you driven in Sport + yet?

I would guess... That since they were unplugged open you would need the car to think they were open again.

I would think it would be smart enough to realize that they are open and adjust accordingly. but maybe you need to drive in sport + so the car effectively "re-opens" them and then closes when necessary.

If not, then maybe, try un-plugging them, and then put in Sport + and hammer the throttle down and shut car off (Essentially leaving them open in the computer's eyes) plug them back in, and start car again.

Just a guess

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Originally Posted by 2HIGH~PSI

Have you driven in Sport + yet?

I would guess... That since they were unplugged open you would need the car to think they were open again.

I would think it would be smart enough to realize that they are open and adjust accordingly. but maybe you need to drive in sport + so the car effectively "re-opens" them and then closes when necessary.

If not, then maybe, try un-plugging them, and then put in Sport + and hammer the throttle down and shut car off (Essentially leaving them open in the computer's eyes) plug them back in, and start car again.

Just a guess

Yeah, I tried every combination to get them to start working again. It doesn't matter what mode I start in, drive in...etc.. They don't do anything. Totally unresponsive.

[2HIGH~PSI]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Yeah, I tried every combination to get them to start working again. It doesn't matter what mode I start in, drive in...etc.. They don't do anything. Totally unresponsive.

Were they wrapped when you had them unplugged? (wondering if dirt/water got in the plugs)

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Originally Posted by 2HIGH~PSI

Were they wrapped when you had them unplugged? (wondering if dirt/water got in the plugs)

Yes, totally. If water/dirt got in them, I'd be surprised of both of them got fouled. Very strange.

[2HIGH~PSI]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Yes, totally. If water/dirt got in them, I'd be surprised of both of them got fouled. Very strange.

Ive unplugged mine... Havent even thought about plugging them back in. I am curious now..

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Originally Posted by 2HIGH~PSI

Ive unplugged mine... Havent even thought about plugging them back in. I am curious now..

I hear about people unplugging them all the time, but never hear about what happens when they get plugged back in after an extended period of time of being unplugged.

Maybe I need to reset the DME through either erasing the codes or disconnecting the battery?

I'm not sure what is up at this point. I'm going to drive around for a few days with them plugged in to see what they do.

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Drove the car for another 10 miles and the valves are still not responsive. I've unplugged and plugged them back in several times to make sure they're plugged in all of the way. Both plugs click, indicating that they're both plugged in correctly.

I'm at a loss. I may try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if this resets them.

[jesm]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Drove the car for another 10 miles and the valves are still not responsive. I've unplugged and plugged them back in several times to make sure they're plugged in all of the way. Both plugs click, indicating that they're both plugged in correctly.

I'm at a loss. I may try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to see if this resets them.

Following up on this....were you able to get them to work again???

JESM.