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      02-12-2018, 12:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by BzsBimmer View Post
You can also try kbb Instant Cash Offer. I’ve done it once and it was decent. Higher than Carmax for sure. YMMV
Based on this post I tried the KBB instant cash offer. The KBB offer surprisingly came in 13% higher than the Carmax appraisal. Which I found strange as the Carmax folks were raving about the pristine condition of the car.
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      02-12-2018, 02:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ajeagle6921 View Post
NADA says $68,000 retail $70,000 certified pre owned for reference.
But that doesn't account for the mods?
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      02-12-2018, 02:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ItIsChrisM View Post
First off, she's beautiful...good job. Second, prepare yourself for a bit of disappointment and headache.

Personally I wouldn't touch a pre-owned car with a tune. Not sure how the general public would feel but that may even reduce value a bit IMO.

I'd throw it up here for sale and see if someone that appreciates the tuning wants to bite and make an offer.

My plan is to take mine to CARMAX when the day comes, get an offer, and then post it up here and autotrader for 5% more and see if anyone bites. If not, CARMAX it is because I just don't want the hassle.
Agree, can't tell you how many private sellers have "tasteful" mods and their car is "clean." Also, the warranty is still intact after tune and mods.... Gimme a break.
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      02-12-2018, 02:27 PM   #26
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Just another reason to lease while the residuals outperform the market.
How can you predict that though?
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      02-12-2018, 02:40 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 3Stripes View Post
But that doesn't account for the mods?
Mods pretty much don't add value to a car. In some cases, hurts the value. Far better to return to stock and part out individually for maximum return on the dollar.
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      02-12-2018, 02:53 PM   #28
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M4 trade ins in general are brutal.
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      02-12-2018, 05:34 PM   #29
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How can you predict that though?
Think of it this way: a lease is a 3 year lock, while financing is a 6 year lock. 3 years is a lot easier to predict than 6. Additionally, if by some small chance that the market value of your leased car is more than that than what your residual factor is, then you can purchase the car in full and sell to a private party and make that money back.
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      02-14-2018, 01:54 AM   #30
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I empathize with anyone trying to sell an M4 right now. There are more cars than buyers. You're also competing with BMW's own lease deals, which come with significantly lower payments than those associated with used car loans.

I've had 3 M4s; each sale has been painful. I think I've finally learned my lesson. Maybe.

PS - This forum's classified section is worthless. Always sold via other platforms.
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      02-14-2018, 07:03 AM   #31
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Remove the JB4 tune, that will scare off a lot of buyers (voids warranty, afraid it was driven hard).
Figure getting half the price for your mods (don't include labor). Then add that price to trade in value. That price would be your bottom line. It sucks, I know, but hopefully at that price the car will be sold "as is" quickly without parting it out.
If you want the most money and you're willing to spend the time then you gotta part it out.
Good luck with your sale!
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      02-14-2018, 12:04 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02M3ForMe View Post
I empathize with anyone trying to sell an M4 right now. There are more cars than buyers. You're also competing with BMW's own lease deals, which come with significantly lower payments than those associated with used car loans.

I've had 3 M4s; each sale has been painful. I think I've finally learned my lesson. Maybe.

PS - This forum's classified section is worthless. Always sold via other platforms.
This is so true. I just traded in my M4 and the dealer gave me a little better than rough trade in value on nada. It’s a buyers market.
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      02-15-2018, 09:34 AM   #33
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I have a baby and we drive an f80. It's our one and only car. But 4 doors makes a huge difference with baby and baby seat.

Given that, what the others have said about the parts is true. Look at trade in value, and then look at retail value(what dealer can sell it for). Your price is somewhere in the middle. At the age of your car, you probably still have warranty left, so that helps a lot.

Custom parts, with exception of port installs or OEM BMW stuff won't really add value to your car.

Remove any tunes. if you tried to sell me a car with a tune, the first thought I would get is your abused the heck out of the car. Visual mods (e.g., front lip spoiler) are fine to leave. You probably wont see any money for it, but it's not a deal breaker for most.

Out of curiosity, why did you dump the charcoal air filter?

Lastly be absolutely honest what you have done with the car. If someone asks if you had the car tuned (or even if they dont ask) make sure to disclaim the. If you regularly did burn-outs or used launch control then let them know. The last thing you want to do is sell a car, not disclose something, and then get sued later.
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      02-15-2018, 09:40 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitchinManWheels View Post
Remove the JB4 tune, that will scare off a lot of buyers (voids warranty, afraid it was driven hard).
Figure getting half the price for your mods (don't include labor). Then add that price to trade in value. That price would be your bottom line. It sucks, I know, but hopefully at that price the car will be sold "as is" quickly without parting it out.
If you want the most money and you're willing to spend the time then you gotta part it out.
Good luck with your sale!
Getting half of non-BMW mods would be a blessing. But as for negotiations, its a starting point.
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      02-20-2018, 02:55 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by jmg View Post
Just another reason to lease while the residuals outperform the market.
There is so much more to this equation....

First off, I think the M3/M4 residuals are in line for a car without too many options. I seem to see a 3 year old car holding about 60% of its value if not more. In fact, you might even argue that the residuals are (or were) under-performing the market.

However, as we are in our last year of M3s... it might be a smart move to consider a fixed residual as some theorize that "values tank" when a new model comes out (fact is, they rarely do).

But/and... Lease does provide a nice residual on options that are worthless on trade. Such as full leather - which is going to net you about $0 on a trade, vs only paying for 40% of it plus interest. CCB might be another great thing as those could actually hurt you on trade.

Finally, for me, I bought my M3 - There were some good sales tax benefits due to my trade and BMW was throwing in an additional $3,750 for buying vs. the lease.

and yes, it's loaded and I'm going to take it up the you know what when I trade it in - however I can do that whenever I want vs. being stuck in a lease.

Anyway, just my 2 cents
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      02-20-2018, 03:03 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
There is so much more to this equation....

First off, I think the M3/M4 residuals are in line for a car without too many options. I seem to see a 3 year old car holding about 60% of its value if not more. In fact, you might even argue that the residuals are (or were) under-performing the market.

However, as we are in our last year of M3s... it might be a smart move to consider a fixed residual as some theorize that "values tank" when a new model comes out (fact is, they rarely do).

But/and... Lease does provide a nice residual on options that are worthless on trade. Such as full leather - which is going to net you about $0 on a trade, vs only paying for 40% of it plus interest. CCB might be another great thing as those could actually hurt you on trade.

Finally, for me, I bought my M3 - There were some good sales tax benefits due to my trade and BMW was throwing in an additional $3,750 for buying vs. the lease.

and yes, it's loaded and I'm going to take it up the you know what when I trade it in - however I can do that whenever I want vs. being stuck in a lease.

Anyway, just my 2 cents
You can buy out, swap out or trade in a leased car whenever you want. You are never really “stuck” in a lease any more than a purchase.
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      02-20-2018, 03:14 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitchinManWheels View Post
Remove the JB4 tune, that will scare off a lot of buyers (voids warranty, afraid it was driven hard).
Figure getting half the price for your mods (don't include labor). Then add that price to trade in value. That price would be your bottom line. It sucks, I know, but hopefully at that price the car will be sold "as is" quickly without parting it out.
If you want the most money and you're willing to spend the time then you gotta part it out.
Good luck with your sale!
He should definitely disclose the JB4. its dirty to sell a car without letting the new owner know as he could have warranty issues.

When I sold my 15 w/ JB4 I disclosed. When I sold my 16 with BM3 I disclosed. Both sold well and for good prices.
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      02-20-2018, 04:22 PM   #38
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You can buy out, swap out or trade in a leased car whenever you want. You are never really “stuck” in a lease any more than a purchase.
You make it sound easy. It isn't and it comes with some serious costs (see #1 and #3 below).

1. The buy out is incredibly expensive. It is just about the same cost as your remaining lease payments (always is, don't know why - well I do, it is because of the way leases are structured)

2. Swap out requires finding someone to take over the payments, getting BMW (or the leasing company to approve), paying taxes, waiting the waiting period, and if there are MSDs? Forgettaboutit....

3.Trading in... well see #1 above.

So yes, you are stuck unless you want to pay a lot of money to get out or have lots of time on your hands.
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      02-20-2018, 04:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickFLM4 View Post
You can buy out, swap out or trade in a leased car whenever you want. You are never really “stuck” in a lease any more than a purchase.
You make it sound easy. It isn't and it comes with some serious costs (see #1 and #3 below).

1. The buy out is incredibly expensive. It is just about the same cost as your remaining lease payments (always is, don't know why - well I do, it is because of the way leases are structured)

2. Swap out requires finding someone to take over the payments, getting BMW (or the leasing company to approve), paying taxes, waiting the waiting period, and if there are MSDs? Forgettaboutit....

3.Trading in... well see #1 above.

So yes, you are stuck unless you want to pay a lot of money to get out or have lots of time on your hands.
That's not accurate at least in any lease I've signed. I have bought cars out of leases and traded in leased cars before the end of the lease term and the buy out is not the residual + remaining lease payments. Just like with a loan, lease payments include a finance/interest component you avoid if buying out or trading in early. I was in no worse position than if I financed with comparable terms.

If you are talking about breaking the lease by dropping the car off then yeah it's expensive, but that's not what I am suggesting.
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      02-20-2018, 04:41 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
2. Swap out requires finding someone to take over the payments, getting BMW (or the leasing company to approve), paying taxes, waiting the waiting period, and if there are MSDs? Forgettaboutit....
Lease swaps are actually incredibly easy and cost efficient so long as the other party is well informed. MSDs are very attractive since they save so much money and are no longer offered through BMW Financial. The new leaser simply pays the old leaser the MSD and the new leaser gets it back upon lease return. Waiting period is about 20-30 days, there is not tax, simply a $500 processing fee and $40 or whatever it is for DMV registration update.
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      02-20-2018, 04:44 PM   #41
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As others have been telling you, some of the mods you put on are going to scare buyers away. You'll be surprised by the amount of buyers that are just regular joes that care very little about what you shove on the car and would want you to remove them ASAP back to bone stock.

I sold my M4, private party the same way and he requested me of the same even though I hardly did anything to my car.

JB4, CCB, your aftermarket Vorestiners are going to scare buyers away. As with any mod, it is a personal taste and since you are selling your car, the potential buyer won't have the same taste as you.

The KW HAS also does not come close to being 1k in the aftermarket. The RKP items aren't M-Perf, which means a lot when you resale.

You also have a F83, which is even in more of a niche market considering it is a vert.

70k is way above what you would get for this car. I'd be surprised if you even get 60k out of your car. My old MW M4 was 6k miles 2015 barely got 55k (officially for DMV records :P), I can promise you, you won't get 60k - 70k for a vert. M4 gets hit harder than the M3. Especially now that the M3 is being discontinued early for 2018 (last year) and already had a short run in 2017, the F80 would hold their value more in the long run than the F82 since the F82 will continue it's run until 2019 I think.
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      02-20-2018, 05:59 PM   #42
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Lease swaps are actually incredibly easy and cost efficient so long as the other party is well informed. MSDs are very attractive since they save so much money and are no longer offered through BMW Financial. The new leaser simply pays the old leaser the MSD and the new leaser gets it back upon lease return. Waiting period is about 20-30 days, there is not tax, simply a $500 processing fee and $40 or whatever it is for DMV registration update.
1. You need someone to understand MSDs and be willing to fork them over. That's rarer than you think - almost like saying "I need a down payment for this lease, but really, you will get it back" - so there is some trust there (and yes, I know the money comes back from BMW) and the fact is, most people want to lease a car and not come up with a lot of cash. Worse, no matter what, the new person is responsible for the lease return - so those wheels the original owner swapped out (20s for 19s) that the new person does not know about... well then...

2. The waiting period for trading in or selling a car after negotiations is 0 days.

3. There certainly is tax depending on the state you live in.

4. Good point, the processing fee for trading in a car or selling personally is also $0

all reasons that make getting out of a lease so much harder and more expensive.
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      02-20-2018, 07:00 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
1. You need someone to understand MSDs and be willing to fork them over. That's rarer than you think - almost like saying "I need a down payment for this lease, but really, you will get it back" - so there is some trust there (and yes, I know the money comes back from BMW) and the fact is, most people want to lease a car and not come up with a lot of cash. Worse, no matter what, the new person is responsible for the lease return - so those wheels the original owner swapped out (20s for 19s) that the new person does not know about... well then...

2. The waiting period for trading in or selling a car after negotiations is 0 days.

3. There certainly is tax depending on the state you live in.

4. Good point, the processing fee for trading in a car or selling personally is also $0

all reasons that make getting out of a lease so much harder and more expensive.
1) Yes. But it is clearly stated in the lease contract what will happen and BMW will spell out for you how the MSDs work. Granted, some people just won't get it and don't want to come up with the up-front money. These people don't understand leases and don't understand out-of-pocket expenses. They look at monthlies and down payments and they are mistaken.

2) True, but that zero days is the relatively hassle free experience of selling to a dealer, in which case you will get less than private party. Going private party is even messier because you have to deal with... a private party. The car will take x number of days/weeks to sell while a lease swap goes through BMW Financial, an nice buffer to protect both the new and old leaser.

3) Here in CA there is no tax for a lease swap. Taxes are paid through the monthly just like a regular lease payment.

4) The "process fee" for selling or trading is the lower price you will get at a dealer and the fact that you never paid full price for the car in the first place in the case of a lease.

Inevitably, a lease is a 3 year commitment. Purchasing is much longer. Worrying about getting out of a 3 year lease is much much less of a hassle than getting out of 4-6 year financing when your car is worth less than what you owe.
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      02-20-2018, 09:09 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickFLM4 View Post
That's not accurate at least in any lease I've signed. I have bought cars out of leases and traded in leased cars before the end of the lease term and the buy out is not the residual + remaining lease payments. Just like with a loan, lease payments include a finance/interest component you avoid if buying out or trading in early. I was in no worse position than if I financed with comparable terms.

If you are talking about breaking the lease by dropping the car off then yeah it's expensive, but that's not what I am suggesting.
I think it is the same thing - to get out of a lease you need to buy the car out of the lease and that is expensive - then you are left with a car, that is normally worth about what it is worth at the end of the lease period. This has been the case with almost ever car I have had leased when I looked into getting out early (my M5 residual was say $60K, the car was worth that at trade AND I owed another $12K to get out of the lease). Some of this pain might have had something to do with how taxes used to work in IL (you paid taxes on the cap cost of the car, not the individual lease payments - even today, you pay tax up front on the sum of your lease payments - and you don't get that back.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
Inevitably, a lease is a 3 year commitment. Purchasing is much longer. Worrying about getting out of a 3 year lease is much much less of a hassle than getting out of 4-6 year financing when your car is worth less than what you owe.
See, I think it is about the same - you are normally "upside down" in a lease just like you are in a loan. I do agree however, you have a slim option/chance of swapping in this case. But/and, i was not referring or comparing to a loan, was more thinking purchase.

At the end of the day, what I see is that a car depreciates to its residual early and kind of holds there - so getting out at the 2 year mark (or even the 1 year mark) is expensive. But my argument is that it is even more expensive with a lease. Once again, I might have suffered that even worse due to the taxes in this lovely state of Illinois.
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