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      03-26-2017, 08:58 PM   #1
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BMS Stage 1 for track?

Guys,

Would you recommend a BMS stage 1 for the track? I'm running 275/305 Nittos and Pagid pads on an otherwise stock car.

Any opinion and advice is welcome!
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      03-27-2017, 09:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Guys,

Would you recommend a BMS stage 1 for the track? I'm running 275/305 Nittos and Pagid pads on an otherwise stock car.

Any opinion and advice is welcome!
Sure. More HP always good. Consider going full JB4 (unless/until willing to pull DME and flash, in which case you can consider BootMod3).

I started with BMS Stage 1 and got bored after a few months and upgraded to full JB4. The extra hp on map 2 and map 7 (with race gas) combined with logging, code reading, CAN Flap control, active sound suppression, make the full JB4 a better value.
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      03-28-2017, 07:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-M4 View Post
Sure. More HP always good. Consider going full JB4 (unless/until willing to pull DME and flash, in which case you can consider BootMod3).

I started with BMS Stage 1 and got bored after a few months and upgraded to full JB4. The extra hp on map 2 and map 7 (with race gas) combined with logging, code reading, CAN Flap control, active sound suppression, make the full JB4 a better value.
Not sure more HP is always good. Full JB4 has the ability to go stock map, I'm thinking in case of rain that can come in handy.

Did you have any issues with code or overheating on track?
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      03-28-2017, 07:56 AM   #4
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To be honest I would put the money towards suspension over doing jb4. I have a tune with boot mod and found I couldn't even use most of the power leaving the turns so , I now turn it off when i'm at the track. the power out put is already pretty stout. I managed to hold off a z06 for 2 laps on stock map, I just couldn't get out the turn fast enough to keep him at bay any longer.
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      03-28-2017, 06:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Properstyle View Post
To be honest I would put the money towards suspension over doing jb4. I have a tune with boot mod and found I couldn't even use most of the power leaving the turns so , I now turn it off when i'm at the track. the power out put is already pretty stout. I managed to hold off a z06 for 2 laps on stock map, I just couldn't get out the turn fast enough to keep him at bay any longer.
I held off a Z06 on PSS tires with my stock engine too. Give and take the entire session.

My lease expires next year so no suspension mods this time. Maybe some Ohlins on the next one, my local shop offers them installed for $3.5k.
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      03-29-2017, 05:31 AM   #6
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I prefer to focus on the driver mod
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      03-29-2017, 08:19 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
I prefer to focus on the driver mod
Of course, and the biggest source of gains on track for me. But at $200-300 for a stage 1, I wonder if I'm missing anything, if it adds to the experience or not.
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      03-29-2017, 01:10 PM   #8
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Had it (Stage 1) on my M235 which was used in the Fl heat many times at PBIR. Will put it on my M3 after break in.
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      03-29-2017, 07:01 PM   #9
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I have the stage 1 and track the car. Honestly not really needed as the car makes plenty of power. Did throw a code once when I banged off the limiter in 4th gear.
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      03-29-2017, 08:02 PM   #10
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Thanks guys!
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      03-31-2017, 01:48 AM   #11
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Try running with efficient throttle response. I found this to be much easier to apply the power for what it's worth
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      03-31-2017, 07:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell325 View Post
Try running with efficient throttle response. I found this to be much easier to apply the power for what it's worth
Nooo, the horror!

With 305 rears applying the power is not an issue anymore. If anything I'd like a little more front grip, no doubt a camber plate would help.

What tires are you running in the rear?
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      03-31-2017, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Nooo, the horror!

With 305 rears applying the power is not an issue anymore. If anything I'd like a little more front grip, no doubt a camber plate would help.

What tires are you running in the rear?


I have the RE71RS, though only 285s.

I'm very happy with my Ground Control camber plates ✔️
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      03-31-2017, 10:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell325 View Post
Try running with efficient throttle response. I found this to be much easier to apply the power for what it's worth
I actually find it is easier to manage the power delivery in Sport+. There is way too much damping in Efficient which makes the power delivery un-predictable, particularly on throttle lift-off.

As tidbit, I usually use Efficient for the DD as it makes for a more "relaxed" drive. But when driving in the snow, I prefer Sport or even Sport+ because I can more precisely control the amount of slip. So if I don't have issues managing the power delivery in Sport+ with DSC off in the snow, it shouldn't be an issue on a racetrack in the dry .
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      03-31-2017, 03:16 PM   #15
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I have tracked mine three times with BMS stage 1 and have not experienced any overheating or errors. With the exception of the tune my car is stock.

I did run out of gas once though
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      04-02-2017, 10:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
I actually find it is easier to manage the power delivery in Sport+. There is way too much damping in Efficient which makes the power delivery un-predictable, particularly on throttle lift-off.

As tidbit, I usually use Efficient for the DD as it makes for a more "relaxed" drive. But when driving in the snow, I prefer Sport or even Sport+ because I can more precisely control the amount of slip. So if I don't have issues managing the power delivery in Sport+ with DSC off in the snow, it shouldn't be an issue on a racetrack in the dry .


I'm still learning how to drive
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      04-02-2017, 10:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
I actually find it is easier to manage the power delivery in Sport+. There is way too much damping in Efficient which makes the power delivery un-predictable, particularly on throttle lift-off.

As tidbit, I usually use Efficient for the DD as it makes for a more "relaxed" drive. But when driving in the snow, I prefer Sport or even Sport+ because I can more precisely control the amount of slip. So if I don't have issues managing the power delivery in Sport+ with DSC off in the snow, it shouldn't be an issue on a racetrack in the dry .
Yes Sport+ for me on track even in the wet, for the same reason. The anti lag works pretty well in that setting and I prefer it to Sport for ex which has the useful rev match function but also significant more lag IMO. Honestly I've never driven in Efficient at all, not even to go down my driveway.
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