02-18-2023, 10:59 PM | #2 |
First Lieutenant
168
Rep 319
Posts |
This is pretty close video and very similar. I’m about to tackle this task this week. I’ll try to follow up with a short write up and photos. I ordered a new flange and rear bearing to make things a little more simple. Pressing them together was very easy and took less than 5 mins with a simple press I bought online. |
Appreciate
3
|
02-18-2023, 11:57 PM | #3 | |
Second Lieutenant
82
Rep 280
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-19-2023, 08:12 AM | #4 | |
Captain
1020
Rep 910
Posts |
Quote:
Last edited by FrankMstein; 02-19-2023 at 08:17 AM.. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-20-2023, 09:34 PM | #5 |
First Lieutenant
168
Rep 319
Posts |
I just tackled the rear hub bearing and it was pretty simple. Very similar to the video I posted earlier but much easier because I was able to push out the axle with my thumb.
Steps: Jack up the car and take the wheel off. You will need a 36mm 12 point socket for the axle nut. Loosen the axle nut. Remove the brake pads by pushing the pins. Both brake pads should slide right out. I marked each pad front/back side I will know which one goes where when I re-assemble. Use 18mm socket to remove 2 bolts holding the caliper. Secure the caliper to the side. Use an Allen wrench to remove the 2 bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Release e-brake to pull off rotor. May need to hammer the center to break loose from rust. Push the axle out of the hub spline. Just needs to go back far enough to get an angle on the 4 Torx bolt holding the bearing. You will need an E16 Torx socket to remove the 4 bolts behind the hub around the axle. This gets a little tricky and patience to get the correct angle to loosen the Torx bolts. Once the Torx bolts are removed, hub/bearing assembly slides right out. To make the process easier for me, I purchased a flange(hub) and bearing and pressed it together the night before. You will need a puller along with a bearing separator if you plan on using the original hub. I used a simple press to press the hub and bearing together which took me about 5 mins to do. Put everything back in opposite order. Use loctite on the 4 Torx bolts and a new axle nut. Do not tighten the axle nut until 4 Torx bolts are tighten down. Much easier with the axle slightly out the spline of the hub. Sorry I wasn’t able to take photos during the process cause I literally got off work and finished it before sun went down. I will try to get photos when I do the other side possibly next week, as a preventative maintenance.
__________________
M4 Yas Marina Blue
F32 Estoril Blue |
05-28-2023, 05:18 PM | #7 | |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
Quote:
Wanted to clarify a few points to your steps outlined. As I have never done a rear bearing before and f8X info is lite around this. 1) The rear axle does not need to be removed? (It stays in diff?) 1b) Use a axle puller tool to push the axle out of hub slightly (.5-1 inch?). Simply to reach the four bearing bolts on the inside easier? 2) Are you saying no other special tools are really needed for the rear? (outside of pressing the bearing into hub beforehand and simple sockets?) No bearing pullers/hammer slides/etc for this method? 3) No suspension arms need to be removed or dropped to get to anything? I figured you needed to remove the axle fully and pull the bearings vs just removing them. Seems much simpler than i anticipated.
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
|
05-29-2023, 06:20 AM | #8 | |
First Lieutenant
168
Rep 319
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
M4 Yas Marina Blue
F32 Estoril Blue |
|
Appreciate
3
|
05-29-2023, 12:01 PM | #9 | |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-01-2023, 09:42 AM | #10 |
First Lieutenant
168
Rep 319
Posts |
Same. I put it off but got it done in time cause the bearing started to get really loud and start to hum right before the parts came in. Luckily it was surprisingly very easy. Take your time. Make things easier also if you buy a new hub so you won't have to pull off the old bearing and race. All you would need to do is press the new bearing onto the new hub and install.
__________________
M4 Yas Marina Blue
F32 Estoril Blue |
Appreciate
1
7tune115.00 |
06-01-2023, 10:58 AM | #11 | |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
Quote:
Think im going to make a youtube tutorial on my page for how to swap the bearing and hub, as there arnt any out there for m3/m4/m2 specifically.
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
|
Appreciate
2
FrankMstein1019.50 7tune115.00 |
06-07-2023, 10:24 PM | #13 |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
sicck_m4
Do you know the torque spec for the bolts? Seems most BMW also have a torque angle once set too? Did nearly all the job today but needed to order an axle puller to get it all back together.
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
Appreciate
0
|
06-07-2023, 11:34 PM | #14 |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
Finally put ISTA to use and was able to pull the page. Didnt see this listed anywhere on the internet related to F8X
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
Appreciate
2
FrankMstein1019.50 7tune115.00 |
06-14-2023, 05:33 PM | #15 |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
Finished up my bearing install yesterday. I do highly recommend buying a axle shaft puller and extractor.
I owned the puller before hand but on assembly it was going to be nearly impossible without the extractor to pull the axle through the hub. It was not going to happen with muscle or a hammer. This made the entire ordeal painless as it could be. Extractor is ~$40 on ebay and other is $20 or so. That will be the best 60$ you ever spend if this job is in your future.
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
07-14-2023, 07:31 AM | #18 | |
Major
1107
Rep 1,301
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-25-2023, 01:42 PM | #19 | |
Private
115
Rep 98
Posts |
Quote:
I was dreading doing the rears for my F87 but was going to go new hub and bearing combo anyway and thought they came bundled together like the fronts but noooo... you gotta buy them separately. The pressing is a POC! The way you explain it makes it sound and look like a walk in the park mechanically and now I'm not worried about getting this done properly for the next 80,000 miles! Thank you! |
|
Appreciate
1
sicck_m4167.50 |
09-26-2023, 12:11 AM | #20 |
Second Lieutenant
220
Rep 248
Posts |
I know this is late, never saw the notification. Yes, a normal 2-3 jaw puller should work the same. The one i posted works with studs/wheel bolts. Anything that can get a good grip on the hub plating should suffice.
__________________
'16 F80 M3 DCT
TC Kline coilovers and camber plates, Apex 18" EC-7, Conti ECF 295r/275f, monoball thrustarms, SPL toe arms, Powerflex diff bushings/bracket, AP Racing 9660, Project Mu H21, Spiegler brake lines, AA midpipe, VTT crankhub, VRSF charge/j pipe, Turner tray, BM3 CS Youtube: Driver407 |
Appreciate
1
jfritz271107.00 |
09-26-2023, 09:00 AM | #21 |
Major
1107
Rep 1,301
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-08-2023, 04:48 AM | #22 | |
Private
115
Rep 98
Posts |
Quote:
Nothing is too late with these cars. I'm just glad the problems are being given airtime because it is weird to me how little info there is regarding what the "F87" has on this when (maybe i should be frequenting 3 and 4 forums more often but the point is moot ) they are all the exact same cars in this exact area with the same issue. And so I have to say that I just went with Bimmerworld on a reinforced hub assembly: This video sealed the deal for me. That extra material, the overall beefiness. The girth. The stability. No brainer. Part number for hubs alone. For the middle road kit which I took using genuine standard bearings, it is this If you are hardcore then go here. Perhaps for some it's overkill but I don't think so at all. Rear ends on a heavy hitting BMW take a beating so why wouldn't you beef them up? I will most likely never have to change them again and that's a good thing because the hub design should have been this from the start. The front hubs are a walk in the park but the rears keep me up at night thinking about this car... I do not trust BMW's shitty rear end hub design, pure and simple and would rather pay a premium to set and forget it. BMW part #33008328143 is an absolute gatekeeper for the rear end. Last edited by 7tune; 10-08-2023 at 05:21 AM.. |
|
Appreciate
3
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|