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      07-17-2016, 07:30 PM   #23
eve-slow
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Are the people with warped rotors and un-even pad deposits doing "cool down" laps or times before shutting the car down?

I am taking my M3 to the track in a couple weeks in stock form and am a little worried about the stock steel system. Mostly stock pads really.

I havn't been on the track for about 4-5 years now. All my track events were with my EVO's (8,9 &10) and always had some healthy brake upgrades. Even with track pads, steel lines, SRF, guides, ti shims etc....... I always had issues including fade and boiling fluid.

I think I really need to "ease" in to the new car and feel things out.

Any braking tips from the experienced? Thanks.
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      07-17-2016, 08:30 PM   #24
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You nailed it, it's only the stock pads that will let you down. Either pick up some track pads now, or be prepared to take cool down laps to let those stock pads breathe mid session.
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      07-17-2016, 08:48 PM   #25
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my first track day at big willow was fine, no issues. It was the second track day at california speedway that I got the pad deposit. i did cool down lap before parking.
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Originally Posted by eve-slow View Post
Are the people with warped rotors and un-even pad deposits doing "cool down" laps or times before shutting the car down?

I am taking my M3 to the track in a couple weeks in stock form and am a little worried about the stock steel system. Mostly stock pads really.

I havn't been on the track for about 4-5 years now. All my track events were with my EVO's (8,9 &10) and always had some healthy brake upgrades. Even with track pads, steel lines, SRF, guides, ti shims etc....... I always had issues including fade and boiling fluid.

I think I really need to "ease" in to the new car and feel things out.

Any braking tips from the experienced? Thanks.
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      07-18-2016, 07:40 AM   #26
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I was thinking of leaving the stockers in for my first event which is one day at Autobahn with MVP Track Time. 20 min sessions I believe.

Reason is, if I put track pads on and something goes south anywhere in the system, BMW probably won't cover it. Also stock pads are free lol.

Do you think that harder shorter braking is better than longer lighter brake sessions in these cars?
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      07-18-2016, 10:09 PM   #27
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longer and lighter did not affect my brakes, the harder and shorter stopping at the track did. You can change them out before you take the car in for service if something goes wrong with your car.
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Originally Posted by eve-slow View Post
I was thinking of leaving the stockers in for my first event which is one day at Autobahn with MVP Track Time. 20 min sessions I believe.

Reason is, if I put track pads on and something goes south anywhere in the system, BMW probably won't cover it. Also stock pads are free lol.

Do you think that harder shorter braking is better than longer lighter brake sessions in these cars?
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      07-19-2016, 07:32 AM   #28
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Thanks Tim. Probably worth the peace of mind for the pads.

Are most just swapping front pads or all corners?
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      07-20-2016, 04:20 PM   #29
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My rotor got some grooves (and peeled) as a stock pad melted down to metal. The dealer said I must have been racing blah blah and denied to replace it under warranty. I asked them to replace pads only as they were willing to cover them. I don't see any issues (vibration or discomfort or functionality) of the rotor.
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      07-20-2016, 05:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eve-slow View Post
I was thinking of leaving the stockers in for my first event which is one day at Autobahn with MVP Track Time. 20 min sessions I believe.

Reason is, if I put track pads on and something goes south anywhere in the system, BMW probably won't cover it. Also stock pads are free lol.
The only thing that can go south is you overheating the pads (which you will, if you go fast enough) and you running out of room to slow down the car.
What good are "free" OEM pads if they are useless for the task at hand?

At the end of the track day, you can always swap in the OEM pads and go back to using up the OEM pads on the street, if you like. It takes about 1 hour first time around, closer to 45 minutes once you get good at it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eve-slow View Post
Thanks Tim. Probably worth the peace of mind for the pads.
Are most just swapping front pads or all corners?
All 4 corners, please.

Unless you really know what you are doing and desire to modify front/rear brake balance.

a
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      07-20-2016, 10:13 PM   #31
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I was hoping just front pad swap out would be sufficient.
No?
No, I really don't know that much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by afadeev View Post
The only thing that can go south is you overheating the pads (which you will, if you go fast enough) and you running out of room to slow down the car.
What good are "free" OEM pads if they are useless for the task at hand?

At the end of the track day, you can always swap in the OEM pads and go back to using up the OEM pads on the street, if you like. It takes about 1 hour first time around, closer to 45 minutes once you get good at it.



All 4 corners, please.

Unless you really know what you are doing and desire to modify front/rear brake balance.

a
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      07-21-2016, 11:26 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by IrvineTim View Post
I was hoping just front pad swap out would be sufficient.
No?
No, I really don't know that much.
As afadeev said, do all 4 corners. You don't want to mess with brake bias as it could make the car unstable.
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      07-21-2016, 08:04 PM   #33
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Damn! The most knowledgeable person in here had to chime in and set me straight, and crush my hopes. I was hoping to sneak bye with only spending $300 on brake pads and changing out the fronts only.
Have to respect the guy though, he knows his stuff.
Track prep time just got longer
Maybe I should have gotten dedicated track car



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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
As afadeev said, do all 4 corners. You don't want to mess with brake bias as it could make the car unstable.
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      07-22-2016, 07:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afadeev View Post
The only thing that can go south is you overheating the pads (which you will, if you go fast enough) and you running out of room to slow down the car.
What good are "free" OEM pads if they are useless for the task at hand?

At the end of the track day, you can always swap in the OEM pads and go back to using up the OEM pads on the street, if you like. It takes about 1 hour first time around, closer to 45 minutes once you get good at it.



All 4 corners, please.

Unless you really know what you are doing and desire to modify front/rear brake balance.

a
I have replaced pads many many times on my EVO's so should be a breeze.

Also, I only had to replace front pads. Rears were always stock and never had issues. Much heavier bias on the fronts I'm guessing than the BMW.
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      07-23-2016, 12:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afadeev View Post
At the end of the track day, you can always swap in the OEM pads and go back to using up the OEM pads on the street, if you like. It takes about 1 hour first time around, closer to 45 minutes once you get good at it.
I was told it's easy to damage the brake system when changing pads without flush the brake fluid. Wrong info?
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      07-23-2016, 01:01 PM   #36
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I was told it's easy to damage the brake system when changing pads without flush the brake fluid. Wrong info?
Yes, wrong info. The fluid is completely separate from the pads, they do not need to be changed at the same time for any particular reason.
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      07-24-2016, 12:50 AM   #37
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I always do cool down laps and always get uneven deposit. The stock pads are "horrible" in my experience. There is one time I didn't get uneven deposit on track, but somehow got uneven deposit on the way home. I eventually decided to get racing pads, just for peach of mind.

Once I switched to the racing pads, I immediately feel I may never go back. The new pads are so much better even on the street (don't know about winter though), so much more confidence inspiring. I am so looking forward to next track day and hope the uneven deposit would go away with racing pads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eve-slow View Post
Are the people with warped rotors and un-even pad deposits doing "cool down" laps or times before shutting the car down?

I am taking my M3 to the track in a couple weeks in stock form and am a little worried about the stock steel system. Mostly stock pads really.

I havn't been on the track for about 4-5 years now. All my track events were with my EVO's (8,9 &10) and always had some healthy brake upgrades. Even with track pads, steel lines, SRF, guides, ti shims etc....... I always had issues including fade and boiling fluid.

I think I really need to "ease" in to the new car and feel things out.

Any braking tips from the experienced? Thanks.
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      07-24-2016, 05:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaftwhy View Post
I was told it's easy to damage the brake system when changing pads without flush the brake fluid. Wrong info?
Completely wrong and misleading.

Here is how easy it is to swap brake pads on an F8x chassis with basic tools:


It takes longer to jack the corner up and remove the wheel, than it takes to swap the pads!

a
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      07-25-2016, 12:52 AM   #39
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Thanks a lot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by afadeev View Post
Completely wrong and misleading.

Here is how easy it is to swap brake pads on an F8x chassis with basic tools:


It takes longer to jack the corner up and remove the wheel, than it takes to swap the pads!

a
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      07-25-2016, 02:32 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
My rotor got some grooves (and peeled) as a stock pad melted down to metal. The dealer said I must have been racing blah blah and denied to replace it under warranty. I asked them to replace pads only as they were willing to cover them. I don't see any issues (vibration or discomfort or functionality) of the rotor.
I thought my rotor was a little compromised, as the pic shows. However, one track day with Pagid pads somewhat cleaned/polished them all. Now the rotor looks smooth and shiny as new.
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      07-25-2016, 03:04 PM   #41
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Awesome! I am using Ferodo DS1.11, and hope it would have similar result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen View Post
I thought my rotor was a little compromised, as the pic shows. However, one track day with Pagid pads somewhat cleaned/polished them all. Now the rotor looks smooth and shiny as new.
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      02-16-2017, 02:03 PM   #42
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My car is making the noticeable groan under braking after a hard track day on the stock brakes. I've got new rotors and track pads on the way, but I'll try several hard braking events from 80 mph to see if they clean up. It's really annoying now, but thankfully there's no warping whatsoever.
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      02-16-2017, 11:50 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
My car is making the noticeable groan under braking after a hard track day on the stock brakes. I've got new rotors and track pads on the way, but I'll try several hard braking events from 80 mph to see if they clean up. It's really annoying now, but thankfully there's no warping whatsoever.
buy some padgid brake pads, they are super simple to change out, and no more brake ruder after track days. Buy a tap to help remove the pins though!!! It was a huge help.
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      Today, 07:23 AM   #44
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https://i.imgur.com/W0HpI19.jpg

Yeah, pad deposits on the rears. Still noisy. I am replacing the rotors and pads in about two weeks, so no worries. I'll get these resurfaced and put them on the shelf.
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