Question about my alignment

[MWcoupe]

Hey everyone. I just got my alignment done and here's the sheet. The steering feels tighter after so that's a good sign. But after a few pulls I feel that It pulls towards one side at 3/4 throttle. Also when hard braking from 60mph. Once the car pulls to nearly full stop it makes this rumbling sound and the pedal feels like abs is kicking in. But no slipping shown on traction control. Please help me take a look and see if the alignment looks correct and if there's anything I should tweet. It can also be the cold weather here in ny. 30degrees Here and I have ccb. Maybe the brake aren't warmed up? But the rumbling and abs vibration feel is very strong on the pedal.

[pistolpete69916]

IN GENERAL... I would not be too happy with those specs, the deviations are huge. There is a significant difference between -1.5 and -2, for example, and a significant difference between .16 and .05 toe on the rear.

Lets look at your front camber:
-1.7L
-1.5R

Not bad. Mediocre shop job.

.04FR toe
.03FL toe

I'd be happy with that. But i like 0.02 or less.

_________

Rear on the other hand....

-2.0 left
-1.5 right

Thats absurd. Ridiculous deviation, its like having an extra 200lbs on the left rear side of the car. Those numbers need to be near identical, not 25% off from eachother. You have overall more rear neg camber than front neg camber. This is not ideal in.. literally any situation for any front engine car. You should always have more negative front than rear.

0.16 RL toe
0.05 RR toe

Thats another ridiculous deviation. Basically you have one tire pointed more inward (toe perspective) by 76% than the other. These toe numbers should be not only closer together, but closer to zero, like the front.

Id take it back and demand more front camber OR less rear camber, AND closer to 0 toe-in on the rear. It will feel snappier and more balanced. Plus your tires will last much much longer the closer to 0.00 toe you get, at the expense of more drift/dartiness (snappiness)

Edit: your steering feels "tighter" vs the previous alignment because your previous alignment had completely SHIT toe specs. Like i said, the closer to 0.00 toe you get, the snappier itll feel... at the expense of more possible drift on grooved pavement.

As for your "rumbling issues" during braking, that is majority of the time related to a wheel imbalance, a loose caliper bolt, one wheel isn't torque evenly (or loose), or SOMETHING is loose. Re-torque your wheels in a star pattern, see if it makes a difference. Then take it back if no-go. Or.. a place that puts out more consistent specs.

[Racer20]

Yeah, that's a shit alignment.

[MWcoupe]

Originally Posted by pistolpete69916

IN GENERAL... I would not be too happy with those specs, the deviations are huge. There is a significant difference between -1.5 and -2, for example, and a significant difference between .16 and .05 toe on the rear.

Lets look at your front camber:
-1.7L
-1.5R

Not bad. Mediocre shop job.

.04FR toe
.03FL toe

I'd be happy with that. But i like 0.02 or less.

_________

Rear on the other hand....

-2.0 left
-1.5 right

Thats absurd. Ridiculous deviation, its like having an extra 200lbs on the left rear side of the car. Those numbers need to be near identical, not 25% off from eachother. You have overall more rear neg camber than front neg camber. This is not ideal in.. literally any situation for any front engine car. You should always have more negative front than rear.

0.16 RL toe
0.05 RR toe

Thats another ridiculous deviation. Basically you have one tire pointed more inward (toe perspective) by 76% than the other. These toe numbers should be not only closer together, but closer to zero, like the front.

Id take it back and demand more front camber OR less rear camber, AND closer to 0 toe-in on the rear. It will feel snappier and more balanced. Plus your tires will last much much longer the closer to 0.00 toe you get, at the expense of more drift/dartiness (snappiness)

Edit: your steering feels "tighter" vs the previous alignment because your previous alignment had completely SHIT toe specs. Like i said, the closer to 0.00 toe you get, the snappier itll feel... at the expense of more possible drift on grooved pavement.

As for your "rumbling issues" during braking, that is majority of the time related to a wheel imbalance, a loose caliper bolt, one wheel isn't torque evenly (or loose), or SOMETHING is loose. Re-torque your wheels in a star pattern, see if it makes a difference. Then take it back if no-go. Or.. a place that puts out more consistent specs.

Thank you so much for you input sir. Much appreciated. Would buy you a beer if you're close haha

[MWcoupe]

So I should have 1.5 camber all around and toe to zero correct?

[MadZarBMR]

I agree this alignment is not ideal, but do want to point out that front camber/caster is not adjustable - only toe, so don't expect miracles there. The only way to adjust is by replacing left or right steering knuckle/carrier or by adding camber plates. Definitely get your rear cross camber as close to 0.00 as possible.

Also, you didn't indicate which direction your call pulls. If it is to the right, there is a known issue with EPS that directly contributes to this issue. It requires coding to EPS to correct it which is covered by warranty. Have a read at one of many threads on this issue: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1029834

Get your alignment as close to perfect as possible and if the pull is to the right, ask them to apply the EPS "repair" to see if it corrects it. the SIB for this is somewhere in the link above. GL

[MWcoupe]

Originally Posted by MadZarBMR

I agree this alignment is not ideal, but do want to point out that front camber/caster is not adjustable - only toe, so don't expect miracles there. The only way to adjust is by replacing left or right steering knuckle/carrier or by adding camber plates. Definitely get your rear cross camber as close to 0.00 as possible.

Also, you didn't indicate which direction your call pulls. If it is to the right, there is a known issue with EPS that directly contributes to this issue. It requires coding to EPS to correct it which is covered by warranty. Have a read at one of many threads on this issue: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1029834

Get your alignment as close to perfect as possible and if the pull is to the right, ask them to apply the EPS "repair" to see if it corrects it. the SIB for this is somewhere in the link above. GL

My car was always pulling to the right since day one. Never really looked into the fix of this issue. Thanks

[edwinm3]

That alignment is screwed up.

[jwoo]

Not to hijack your thread. But how does the quality of my alignment look? Why are the target values for camber different depending if it's for the right or left hand side?

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[MWcoupe]

This is the oem alignment spec sheet. Can someone please simplify the specs

[Super Spartan]

I did a steering rack update to fix the alignment on my 2018 M4, no alignment would fix it if the software update is not done first

Quoted from another member here:

retrofit programming as per SI B32 01 17

It is a software update but the also have to select the special conversion "steering assistance" per SIB 32 01 17 to activate the fix.

First do alignment, swap wheels, etc. then
"Program and encode the vehicle to integration level F020-17-500 available in ISTA/P 3.62.0 or later (available mid-July 2017).
Retrofit with Pull Drift Compensation (PDC) function via Coverstion-Active Steering Assistance Retrofitting."

[MWcoupe]

I have the gts flash and updated software. That's pretty much same thing right?

[Super Spartan]

Originally Posted by MWcoupe

I have the gts flash and updated software. That's pretty much same thing right?

no that's the steering rack software it's different.

[MWcoupe]

That's the oem spec sheet. So what does that day for camber on toe on rear?

[Brasko]

Subscribed for the knowledge.

[Ant_tc]

Looks like the technician was lazy and adjusted your camber eccentric in the rear to get your toe back into spec.

[FirstF80InSpace]

OP, you should be wiping your ass with that alignment sheet.

[MWcoupe]

I'm desperate for a place that can put it back to factory spec. But I'm going to wait till March so I can get my new tires

[FirstF80InSpace]

Originally Posted by MWcoupe

I'm desperate for a place that can put it back to factory spec. But I'm going to wait till March so I can get my new tires

I know it will probably be more expensive than independents, but I would consider just taking it to the dealership. There you will have recourse until they get it right.

Sometimes dealerships have specials going on. For instance, my dealership right now is offering a 4 wheel alignment for $199 until end of March. Usually it's $229. This is in CAD dollars of course.

[SpaceCowboy]

Pulling to one side can be caused by either significantly more camber on that side or significantly less caster on that side. Your car does not exhibit either of those conditions. If you do have a pull other than crown drift I would swap the front tires side to side and if the pull reverses you have a belt issue in a tire. Otherwise be aware that high performance cars like ours with negative camber have inherently less straight line stability. Opposing positive camber gives mass market cars that dead straight feel. If you have ever driven a race car with tons of negative camber you know they are a handful. You tend to always be steering them. Nature of the beast.

[CanuckM4]

I've had this problem for a while, it has finally been fixed although the fix corrected the steering issue they cleared all my coding and now only have of the original coding such as extended blinkers works even after recoding.

Anyway, the fix for the pulling to the right was a software issue and it has been spot on ever since. I believe there was a Service Bulletin for the problem.

Good luck