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      10-26-2017, 12:23 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by terahertz View Post
Hi Cary,

I've been poking around the editor because I am curious but some things are just not self explanatory.

How did you know that the exhaust flaps 1-8 was for different car models?

Also, on burble cold/warm, the x axis says %. % what? It goes from 11.8% to 170%. And what's the Z axis? -32 burble doesn't really mean much to me.

Is there some online resource that explains these things? I don't mean a tuning class, but the terms and details that aren't exactly self explanatory. Or are these just normal things in BMW tuning?

Thanks
There are 8 Sport/Sport+ tables. I know for a fact that some of those tables are for different models, such as the convertible M4.

% is in reference to load. the values in the burble tables are ignition timing. "-" = timing retard beyond 0. If you're unsure of what all this stuff means, you may want to be careful with these tables. You can premature wear-out your turbo's journal bearings if you get too crazy with burble.

Nothing in the DME is self-explainatory, unfortunately. Tuning is complicated and this DME is even more complicated.
How complicated? Like in trouble with your wife complicated?
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      10-26-2017, 09:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terahertz View Post
Hi Cary,

I've been poking around the editor because I am curious but some things are just not self explanatory.

How did you know that the exhaust flaps 1-8 was for different car models?

Also, on burble cold/warm, the x axis says %. % what? It goes from 11.8% to 170%. And what's the Z axis? -32 burble doesn't really mean much to me.

Is there some online resource that explains these things? I don't mean a tuning class, but the terms and details that aren't exactly self explanatory. Or are these just normal things in BMW tuning?

Thanks
Exhaust flaps are what's part of so called 'sound tuning'. They are independent based on convertible or not, transmission and mode you're in.

As for load, here we go, too geeky for most and really not too important to know all these details, but since you're asking

Quote:
Load % = [current airflow] / [(peak airflow at WOT@STP as a function of rpm) *
(BARO/29.92) * SQRT(298/(AAT+273))]
Where:

- STP = Standard Temperature and Pressure = 25 °C, 29.92 in Hg BARO,
- SQRT = square root
- WOT = wide open throttle
- AAT = Ambient Air Temperature (in °C)

There's also relative and absolute engine load values. Difference between the two?
You've seen the above equation for calculated engine load. Below is the calculation for absolute engine load:

Load Abs = [air mass (g / intake stroke)] / [1.184 (g / intake stroke) * cylinder displacement in liters]

Derivation:

- air mass (g / intake stroke) = [total engine air mass (g/sec)] /
[rpm (revs/min)* (1 min / 60 sec) * (1/2 # of cylinders (strokes / rev)]

- Load Abs = [air mass (g)/intake stroke] / [maximum air mass (g)/intake
stroke at WOT@STP at 100% volumetric efficiency] * 100%.

Where:

- STP = Standard Temperature and Pressure = 25 °C, 29.92 in Hg (101.3 kPa)
BARO
- WOT = wide open throttle

The quantity (maximum air mass (g)/intake stroke at WOT@STP at 100%
volumetric efficiency) is a constant for a given cylinder swept volume.
The constant is 1.184 (g/liter 3) * cylinder displacement (liter 3/intake
stroke) based on air density at STP.

This equation relies on the flow of air and basically engine displacement. This correlates with VE (volumetric efficiency), basically how completely a cylinder fills with air on the intake stroke at WOT.
Hope the above is a fun read

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadar View Post
I once heard Dzenan reference to it as bootmode not 100% but he will have to chime in.
Spot on. Its pronounced bootmode but funny enough that's rarely the pronunciation used by most. Turned out most people ended up calling it BM3 or bootmod.
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      10-27-2017, 07:41 AM   #25
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Awesome video! Thanks CaryTheLabelGuy

When I see a log like this I cannot help but wonder "what if my timing was not flat lining for the last 2000rpm?"

Is there a simple and safe way to raise the ceiling without compromising any of the safety nannies? I love everything else about this BEF! I know the stock map would target even higher ignition but it just does not play ball with JB4 as this one Halim@HCP made for me.
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      10-30-2017, 08:00 PM   #26
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Thank you for the videos Cary!! Very helpful !!
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      10-31-2017, 01:14 AM   #27
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Thanks for the videos its much clearer what bm3 is would be grate to make a video standing my the engine and explaning and pionting at bolts on what to do to get the dme out ..

i have been using efilive for many years on my other cars layout looks lil similar but with efilive everytime i click on a parameter i get brief explanation what it is and warnings.This bm3 is way to complicated and open to user errors. So watch out, i killed a motor once with a simple click
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      10-31-2017, 02:46 PM   #28
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Watch out, she swallowed..once
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      11-01-2017, 11:34 AM   #29
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Left a Thums up ~ Carry ~
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      12-16-2017, 05:47 AM   #30
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Finally and I missed it, thank you to the OP for putting this together
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      02-13-2018, 12:54 PM   #31
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Still sharing and enjoying these videos; once again thanks and great job CaryTheLabelGuy
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      02-13-2018, 09:38 PM   #32
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Added a fourth video to the OP: "OBD Unlock and Offline Flasher Quick and Dirty"
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      02-14-2018, 02:38 AM   #33
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Hi Cary appreciate the work you bring to the community but since you continuously repeated the need for a battery charger in that video...

It is important that everyone understands that if they want to use something relevant to flashing, it is a PSU that is required not a trickle charger that supplies at most 5A in the later charging cycles for a LifePO4. I’ve posted numerous times the tech details which I won’t repeat here.

Three choices exist for people that can’t get a PSU:
  1. Use another car
  2. Night before, plug the CTEK, Optimate or Noco LifePO4 trickle charger and fully charge the battery
  3. Don’t do anything and risk it depending on battery state of charge and other factors
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      02-14-2018, 11:19 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboulfad View Post
Hi Cary appreciate the work you bring to the community but since you continuously repeated the need for a battery charger in that video...

It is important that everyone understands that if they want to use something relevant to flashing, it is a PSU that is required not a trickle charger that supplies at most 5A in the later charging cycles for a LifePO4. I’ve posted numerous times the tech details which I won’t repeat here.

Three choices exist for people that can’t get a PSU:
  1. Use another car
  2. Night before, plug the CTEK, Optimate or Noco LifePO4 trickle charger and fully charge the battery
  3. Don’t do anything and risk it depending on battery state of charge and other factors
Booster pack will also work in a pinch. The XP-10 Lithium packs are a good choice, and always good to have for other emergencies, I keep one in the car/shop at all times.

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Gravity-.../dp/B07661CL25
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      02-14-2018, 11:29 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Booster pack will also work in a pinch. The XP-10 Lithium packs are a good choice, and always good to have for other emergencies, I keep one in the car/shop at all times.

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Gravity-.../dp/B07661CL25
Cool model, a booster pack is meant to be temporarily connected to energize a sleeping battery, how do you use it as related to flashing ?

PS: I've always wanted to stash one in my car especially in our freezing temps, but most models advertise fake Amps...
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      02-14-2018, 11:32 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboulfad View Post
Cool model, a booster pack is meant to be temporarily connected to energize a sleeping battery, how do you use it as related to flashing ?
Just method of power stabilization if in a pinch. I use a Fronius, which keeps the voltage in between the 13.5-14.2v sweet zone and has necessary amperage.
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      02-14-2018, 11:40 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Just method of power stabilization if in a pinch. I use a Fronius, which keeps the voltage in between the 13.5-14.2v sweet zone and has necessary amperage.
Fronius, now you are bragging my home made fugly < $100, ~13.4-13.7V, 80A PSU

PS: Cary, sorry for
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      02-14-2018, 02:44 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Booster pack will also work in a pinch. The XP-10 Lithium packs are a good choice, and always good to have for other emergencies, I keep one in the car/shop at all times.

https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Gravity-.../dp/B07661CL25
Quote:
Originally Posted by aboulfad View Post
Fronius, now you are bragging my home made fugly < $100, ~13.4-13.7V, 80A PSU

PS: Cary, sorry for
Very good info guys!
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      03-19-2018, 11:22 AM   #39
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Are you able to tune using map for load? And when you are reviewing datalog does it highlight the tables that were active during that certain section you highlight on the log?
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      03-22-2018, 07:12 AM   #40
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May be slightly off topic here, but since the thread is a sort of "how to" its worth mentioning here.

I have tried to flash my car twice and both occasions it failed with a variety of errors. The first time PTF remoted in and fixed it, the second time (last night) I tried it myself, only to get a similar issue.
Both times when I attempted to flash I was using IE as my browser and I only remember late last night that when PTF fixed it they used Chrome.

Once I tried again using Chrome it just worked first time, so lesson truly learnt.

Use Chrome as a browser and not IE.

Hopefully its worth people who encounter these problems to try again using Chrome as it just seems to work.

I wont be making that mistake again!!
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      04-09-2018, 10:33 PM   #41
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Cary, asked this in another thread, you may be willing to help:

In editing maps, what parameters are the ones that would need changing if, for example, your cats were more open than stock, or in fact, were downpipes, rather than cats, and you wanted to avoid the CEL?

Along similar lines, which parameters would need changing if you wanted to add rev matching into sport+?
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      09-13-2018, 07:01 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
Cary, asked this in another thread, you may be willing to help:

In editing maps, what parameters are the ones that would need changing if, for example, your cats were more open than stock, or in fact, were downpipes, rather than cats, and you wanted to avoid the CEL?

Along similar lines, which parameters would need changing if you wanted to add rev matching into sport+?
OTS Stage 2 automatically turns off the CEL for downpipes. The other option is to use the map configuration screen on an OTS map to enable/disable any of these features including rev matching in sport+.
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      09-13-2018, 10:50 AM   #43
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When I asked that question (5 months ago), there wasn't a map configuration screen yet...
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      09-13-2018, 10:52 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
When I asked that question (5 months ago), there wasn't a map configuration screen yet...
Oh sorry someone bumped this thread earlier and didn't realize your message was that old, my apologies
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