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      02-21-2017, 01:02 PM   #45
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Track pads will take care of that quickly, or enough miles on street pads. You don't need new rotors.
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      10-17-2017, 01:21 PM   #46
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Same here, deposits on both rotors front and rear. I did some bedding a couple of time but still have de hmmmm when applying breaks to reduce speed. Do I have to replace rotors or it will be gone someday?


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Yeah, pad deposits on the rears. Still noisy. I am replacing the rotors and pads in about two weeks, so no worries. I'll get these resurfaced and put them on the shelf.
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      10-18-2017, 12:39 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggatta4545 View Post
Same here, deposits on both rotors front and rear. I did some bedding a couple of time but still have de hmmmm when applying breaks to reduce speed. Do I have to replace rotors or it will be gone someday?
Eventually it will go away, but it may take a while. Since I replaced my rotors (for track use, not for deposits), I make sure I complete at least 1.5 cool-down laps on the track before pitting. It also helps to have brake cooling, because it makes deposits a lot less likely if the pads aren't still semi-molten.
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      10-18-2017, 05:40 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggatta4545 View Post
Same here, deposits on both rotors front and rear. I did some bedding a couple of time but still have de hmmmm when applying breaks to reduce speed. Do I have to replace rotors or it will be gone someday?
The point of bedding brakes is to smear an even layer of pad material on the rotors to favor transfer friction. Doing a brake bedding procedure on rotors that already have an uneven deposit will not make matters any better. You just need to be patient and let the pad deposit wear off with regular street driving. Regular street driving does not put enough heat in the brake system to get into transfer friction and mostly relies on abrasive friction, which will eventually abrade the pad material on the rotors. The more deposit you have, the longer it takes.
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      10-18-2017, 10:27 PM   #49
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Totally agree. This was my first trackday and I did not make the cool down lap and even worst I used the parking brake when pitting.

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Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
Eventually it will go away, but it may take a while. Since I replaced my rotors (for track use, not for deposits), I make sure I complete at least 1.5 cool-down laps on the track before pitting. It also helps to have brake cooling, because it makes deposits a lot less likely if the pads aren't still semi-molten.
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      10-18-2017, 10:28 PM   #50
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Thanks a lot, I will be patient but the things this car isn't my daily driver so many it takes longer than expected.

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Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
The point of bedding brakes is to smear an even layer of pad material on the rotors to favor transfer friction. Doing a brake bedding procedure on rotors that already have an uneven deposit will not make matters any better. You just need to be patient and let the pad deposit wear off with regular street driving. Regular street driving does not put enough heat in the brake system to get into transfer friction and mostly relies on abrasive friction, which will eventually abrade the pad material on the rotors. The more deposit you have, the longer it takes.
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      02-01-2018, 11:35 PM   #51
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I had a set of pads which I thought I could get 1 more session out of. Well that was not good because I smoked the pads and felt them go to the backing plates. Rotors looked horrible. Alls it took was new pads and some time and the looked shinny and kinda new
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      04-22-2018, 06:51 AM   #52
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Hi all, do you guys skim your stock rotors when switching from street pads to race pads? Is it necessary at all? Thank you!
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      04-24-2018, 12:19 PM   #53
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My last track day was in mid February at Laguna Seca and I used PFC08s. After the event, I drove the car for about 10days with PFC08s just to clean the rotors. It's been more than 2 months now and I still feel a strong judder at high speed (triple digits) braking while applying mid to high level pedal pressure. I'm starting to think this is not pad deposit anymore. Rotors have about 7 track days on them and I haven't noticed any cracks connecting drills. Any recommendations?
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