Eibach Springs

[zimzimma]

Update: got it back up on a lift and mechanic re-torqued bolts while springs were compressed and presto no more clicking noises. He said he has seen it on M cars before.

[boss2k]

Question

I will be installing the V2 springs but need new tires in another 4-5K miles, would it fine to install the springs, do alignment and then put on new tires, i hope another alignment is not required again?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by boss2k

Question

I will be installing the V2 springs but need new tires in another 4-5K miles, would it fine to install the springs, do alignment and then put on new tires, i hope another alignment is not required again?

This question has been answered many times. New tires do not require an alignment to be done!

[boss2k]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

This question has been answered many times. New tires do not require an alignment to be done!

I understand that but asking because of installing new springs and then changing tires.

[Judd]

Any recommendation on a good vendor in Canada to purchase these springs from?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by boss2k

I understand that but asking because of installing new springs and then changing tires.

[ssuene93]

Originally Posted by boss2k

Question

I will be installing the V2 springs but need new tires in another 4-5K miles, would it fine to install the springs, do alignment and then put on new tires, i hope another alignment is not required again?

If an alignment is done after the new springs is installed, it is not necessary to do alignment again after changing new wheels/tires.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by ssuene93

If an alignment is done after the new springs is installed, it is not necessary to do alignment again after changing new wheels/tires.

Wasn't that evident in the response I provided?

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by ssuene93

If an alignment is done after the new springs is installed, it is not necessary to do alignment again after changing new wheels/tires.

For a laser alignment sensors are mounted to the wheels. For a spring alignment measurements are taken off the wheels. Neither of these involve tires.

If you change the tires it will not affect the alignment. If you change the wheels it will not change the alignment (only the point measurements are taken from).

It's only when you change something in the suspension that alters ride height (springs, coilovers, etc) or put in adjustable control arms, toe links, spherical bearings that could change the position of the hub and thus alignment settings that you actually need an alignment.

[ssuene93]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Wasn't that evident in the response I provided?

Yes, but OP wants direct answer. lol

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants

For a laser alignment sensors are mounted to the wheels. For a spring alignment measurements are taken off the wheels. Neither of these involve tires.

If you change the tires it will not affect the alignment. If you change the wheels it will not change the alignment (only the point measurements are taken from).

It's only when you change something in the suspension that alters ride height (springs, coilovers, etc) or put in adjustable control arms, toe links, spherical bearings that could change the position of the hub and thus alignment settings that you actually need an alignment.

Noob question again: totally understand what you are saying. But my question is, the alignment was good before I put on the eibach springs. And after lowering, I kind of feel the alignment is even better. The steering feels tighter, the car tracks straight, and has more road feel, in a very good way. I don't even want to have an alignment to mess that...so does that mean my alignment was not good before lowering? or something else...

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by tonywham

Noob question again: totally understand what you are saying. But my question is, the alignment was good before I put on the eibach springs. And after lowering, I kind of feel the alignment is even better. The steering feels tighter, the car tracks straight, and has more road feel, in a very good way. I don't even want to have an alignment to mess that...so does that mean my alignment was not good before lowering? or something else...

It means the suspension is in a different part of the travel, you may have gained some static camber and the springs are stiffer. Everything will feel more direct and less floaty. DEF get an alignment. You'll potentially end up eating tires and could have somewhat dangerous toe settings (I don't know what happens to the rear of this car when lowered).

There is no downside to the alignment even if it's $200+. Just do it.

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants

It means the suspension is in a different part of the travel, you may have gained some static camber and the springs are stiffer. Everything will feel more direct and less floaty. DEF get an alignment. You'll potentially end up eating tires and could have somewhat dangerous toe settings (I don't know what happens to the rear of this car when lowered).

There is no downside to the alignment even if it's $200+. Just do it.

Okay, just booked an appointment to have an alignment check.

Here are pictures of my car after lowering. I thought eibach (I got V2) has the most moderate lowering...but my rear tires (305/30/19 on 19*10.5 et34) are rubbing when hitting big bumps on the highway.

Not sure what to do now....rolling the fender?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by tonywham

Okay, just booked an appointment to have an alignment check.

Here are pictures of my car after lowering. I thought eibach (I got V2) has the most moderate lowering...but my rear tires (305/30/19 on 19*10.5 et34) are rubbing when hitting big bumps on the highway.

Not sure what to do now....rolling the fender?

Not suprising with 305 on ET34. You don't have enough offset in the rear.

I run very wide treaded 305 NT01 and have no rubbing issues with ET44 wheels.

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Not suprising with 305 on ET34. You don't have enough offset in the rear.

I run very wide treaded 305 NT01 and have no rubbing issues with ET44 wheels.

I planned to run 295/35/19 in the rear, but after the lowering, I thought that size might be too high and will rub the inner fender...so I went to 305/30/19 which has smaller OD than 295/35...I did not realize it would stick out too much....not sure if 295/35/19 will fit right now...it will retract 5mm so I think the outer fender is fine, but it will also be close to the inner fender about 5mm...the other safe option is go with 285/35/19, but then no upgrade from stock zcp tire

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by tonywham

I planned to run 295/35/19 in the rear, but after the lowering, I thought that size might be too high and will rub the inner fender...so I went to 305/30/19 which has smaller OD than 295/35...I did not realize it would stick out too much....not sure if 295/35/19 will fit right now...it will retract 5mm so I think the outer fender is fine, but it will also be close to the inner fender about 5mm...the other safe option is go with 285/35/19, but then no upgrade from stock zcp tire

Don't know where you're at camber wise (or where its rubbing), but increasing neg camber will tuck the top of the tire in and add some clearance. (NOT advocating camber gang BS or that stance crap). 3-5 tenths of a degree will get some decent movement inward at the top as the camber bolt is at the lower arm.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by tonywham

I planned to run 295/35/19 in the rear, but after the lowering, I thought that size might be too high and will rub the inner fender...so I went to 305/30/19 which has smaller OD than 295/35...I did not realize it would stick out too much....not sure if 295/35/19 will fit right now...it will retract 5mm so I think the outer fender is fine, but it will also be close to the inner fender about 5mm...the other safe option is go with 285/35/19, but then no upgrade from stock zcp tire

Is it rubbing on the tread or on the sidewall?

Anyhow, I think your problem is mostly related to the offset of your wheel.

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Is it rubbing on the tread or on the sidewall?

Anyhow, I think your problem is mostly related to the offset of your wheel.

Outer sidewall, so yes, it's because of the offset. But et34 is just like people running the stock wheels with 6mm spacer...so I guess the thicker mps4s plays in the role as well

[wcw]

Hello all! I'm ready to order the springs and I was given the following part# as the right Eibach spring to order for the Comp. Pkg. # E10-20-036-01-22
Is this the V2 ya'll were referring to earlier in this thread?

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by wcw

Hello all! I'm ready to order the springs and I was given the following part# as the right Eibach spring to order for the Comp. Pkg. # E10-20-036-01-22
Is this the V2 ya'll were referring to earlier in this thread?

Yes, and it's for M3. For M4 it's 037 instead of 036

[wcw]

Originally Posted by tonywham

Yes, and it's for M3. For M4 it's 037 instead of 036

Tonywham, thank you very much for responding!

[tonywham]

Originally Posted by wcw

Tonywham, thank you very much for responding!

you're very welcome. I got a lot help from here, and now it's time to give back.