♛ OFFICIAL ♛ HEX Tuning BMW (F8x) ECU & TCU Software Re-Release

Skasol · 08-26-2016, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BimmerFix

This is absolutely awesome man. I'm really a fan of this tune, and looking forward to the new updates. Maybe limit boost a bit in 1st and 2nd, just a thought. And by the way, I'm currently on Stage 1 and am experiencing this stuttering and hesitation. It's usually at 50% throttle or more & obviously at WOT as well. But with TC fully disengaged, doesn't really do that. I have BMS intakes as well, and when this happens to me you can hear a Pfffttt, Pffft, Pffft, in quick concessions.It seems like the tune or traction control , is cutting the air from entering the intake or engine. Am I wrong here ? I think maybe with my intakes I can hear the stutter as well as feel it. How do I go about doing the reset for DCT for the adaptions to happen faster.

Wow seems more and more people are having issues with it. How long have you had your tune?

BimmerFix · 08-26-2016, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Turn TC totally off and see if this happens. Try more than once, then turn it back in and see what you get. When TC kicks in, it can mimick what you guys are talking about.

Did a few runs around the block just now. And with TC fully off I could not replicate the problem. It pulls smooth and very linear, no issues. So it's basically grip and traction thats the issue. I hope in the future VF can offer some kind of boost control or something. Normally the best solution would be wider and or stickier tires. But Im SOL , I'm keeping my zcp rims and on 20s theres no other option other than PSS in 265 and 285 respectivelly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skasol

Wow seems more and more people are having issues with it. How long have you had your tune?

Car is basically new, 2 month owned M4 ZCP & tuned for 2 weeks roughly. This only happens with traction control on or mdm mode.

Skasol · 08-26-2016, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BimmerFix

Did a few runs around the block just now. And with TC fully off I could not replicate the problem. It pulls smooth and very linear, no issues. So it's basically grip and traction thats the issue. I hope in the future VF can offer some kind of boost control or something. Normally the best solution would be wider and or stickier tires. But Im SOL , I'm keeping my zcp rims and on 20s theres no other option other than PSS in 265 and 285 respectivelly.

Car is basically new, 2 month owned M4 ZCP & tuned for 2 weeks roughly. This only happens with traction control on or mdm mode.

Thank you

mrduder · 08-26-2016, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Quote:

Originally Posted by BimmerFix

This is absolutely awesome man. I'm really a fan of this tune, and looking forward to the new updates. Maybe limit boost a bit in 1st and 2nd, just a thought. And by the way, I'm currently on Stage 1 and am experiencing this stuttering and hesitation. It's usually at 50% throttle or more & obviously at WOT as well. But with TC fully disengaged, doesn't really do that. I have BMS intakes as well, and when this happens to me you can hear a Pfffttt, Pffft, Pffft, in quick concessions.It seems like the tune or traction control , is cutting the air from entering the intake or engine. Am I wrong here ? I think maybe with my intakes I can hear the stutter as well as feel it. How do I go about doing the reset for DCT for the adaptions to happen faster.

Turn TC totally off and see if this happens. Try more than once, then turn it back in and see what you get. When TC kicks in, it can mimick what you guys are talking about.

Yeah it seems to me that most people are having issues with traction control. The sound I get when the traction control light is flickering is a sputter sound and then as soon as traction sticks again, I stop getting that. I don't really get hesitation though. I mean I guess this can be considered hesitation because it's kinda like cutting power and kicking it back on super rapidly. But since day one I was told this is normal. What I find odd though, is the sound. And what I mean by that is that I never got this sound before the tune. So why now? What's causing this sputtering sound and why only now that I have the tune? Traction control kicking in has always been an issue with this car and I never heard it before.

mrduder · 08-26-2016, 11:16 PM

If I could request one single thing from this tune it would be open valves when I have the car in sport or sport plus when the car isn't fully warmed up from the cold start procedure. And what I mean by that is that when I start the car even after its only sat for like 5 minutes and I throw it straight into sport before I leave, it takes like a minute for the valves to open again. The car is already warm.... Is there a way to allow for the valves to be controlled more like how it was when it was stock? I appreciate them being closed on actual cold start. It's sooooo much better than the rattle I used to get. This is also caused by the car starting in efficient mode. Which is fine. But if I switch it to sport, I'd like the flaps to open. But after I've been driving the car and it's already warm, it seems weird that it goes through that full process again even though the engine is warm.

CaryTheLabelGuy · 08-27-2016, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

Yeah it seems to me that most people are having issues with traction control. The sound I get when the traction control light is flickering is a sputter sound and then as soon as traction sticks again, I stop getting that. I don't really get hesitation though. I mean I guess this can be considered hesitation because it's kinda like cutting power and kicking it back on super rapidly. But since day one I was told this is normal. What I find odd though, is the sound. And what I mean by that is that I never got this sound before the tune. So why now? What's causing this sputtering sound and why only now that I have the tune? Traction control kicking in has always been an issue with this car and I never heard it before.

The sound you're hearing, if it's traction control kicking in, is the the sound of the DME pulling power back drastically. You're hearing the throttle plate close and you're hearing the DME pull timing drastically as well as the EWG commanding the wastegates open (which makes the exhaust note louder and stops the turbos from building boost).

When the throttle plate closes, the charge air slipping past it makes a swoosh sound, similar to the sound you hear when you lift and you have intakes. The stuttering sound is the DME cutting timing, similar to hitting the rev-limiter/launch control. The more you're loosing traction, the more drastic measures the DME needs to take to attempt to stop it.

The TC system in the F8x is way too aggressive and this gets worse as you add power, particularly at peak torque. For this reason, I turn TC totally off when I'm driving and rely on my right foot instead. Even ZCP's MDM and Euro MDM is too aggressive, but much better than regular TC.

Be careful out there.

mrduder · 08-27-2016, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

Yeah it seems to me that most people are having issues with traction control. The sound I get when the traction control light is flickering is a sputter sound and then as soon as traction sticks again, I stop getting that. I don't really get hesitation though. I mean I guess this can be considered hesitation because it's kinda like cutting power and kicking it back on super rapidly. But since day one I was told this is normal. What I find odd though, is the sound. And what I mean by that is that I never got this sound before the tune. So why now? What's causing this sputtering sound and why only now that I have the tune? Traction control kicking in has always been an issue with this car and I never heard it before.

The sound you're hearing, if it's traction control kicking in, is the the sound of the DME pulling power back drastically. You're hearing the throttle plate close and you're hearing the DME pull timing drastically.

When the throttle plate closes, the charge air slipping past it makes a swoosh sound, similar to the sound you hear when you lift and you have intakes. The stuttering sound is the DME cutting timing, similar to hitting the rev-limiter/launch control. The more you're loosing traction, the more drastic measures the DME needs to take to attempt to stop it.

The TC system in the F8x is way too aggressive and this gets worse as you add power, particularly at peak torque. For this reason, I turn TC totally off when I'm driving and rely on my right foot instead. Even ZCP's MDM and Euro MDM is too aggressive, but much better than regular TC.

Be careful out there.

Do you know why this didn't happen before the tune though? I had traction control issues before as well, but never had this sound. The car would seemingly just loose power and just would go.

CaryTheLabelGuy · 08-27-2016, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

Do you know why this didn't happen before the tune though? I had traction control issues before as well, but never had this sound. The car would seemingly just loose power and just would go.

Like I said, if this is traction control, it will have to take more drastic measures to stop wheel-spin as you've added a good amount of torque over the stock setup it was designed to work with.

In your case, if you say it totally stops when you turn TC off, it's likely TC kicking in.

mrduder · 08-27-2016, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

Do you know why this didn't happen before the tune though? I had traction control issues before as well, but never had this sound. The car would seemingly just loose power and just would go.

Like I said, if this is traction control, it will have to take more drastic measures to stop wheel-spin as you've added a good amount of torque over the stock setup it was designed to work with.

In your case, if you say it totally stops when you turn TC off, it's likely TC kicking in.

Yeah it's definitely the traction control. I was just curious why I was getting the sound now and not before. But sounds like it's from the added power this tune brought and the ecu working that much harder. So that answers my question. Thanks

Skasol · 08-27-2016, 10:28 AM

Well good to hear VF is working on an update.

DandyKing · 08-27-2016, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

Did this fix your issue?

Nope. I now have what feels to be a N/A car. This is beyond my expertise so ill be taking it back to tuner and see what is going on. Peachy aint it...

CaryTheLabelGuy · 08-27-2016, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DandyKing

Nope. I now have what feels to be a N/A car. This is beyond my expertise so ill be taking it back to tuner and see what is going on. Peachy aint it...

You could have cracked the charge pipe when it blew off the intercooler. A common crack happens at the mounting point on the charge pipe. If the pipe flew back far enough and fast enough, I bet it cracked that plastic charge pipe at the mount.

clutchdj · 08-27-2016, 02:01 PM

that's what i was thinking, could possibly be a stress crack from popping off. perhaps not re-tightened or untightened at some time.. water under the bridge at this point; however it's an easy replacment fix. I don't think any of the bigger turbo guys have broken the e-wastegate actuator yet so good chance that's not it the root cause. at best the motor would sound like scooby if there was no spark into any particular cylinder; so good hopefully it is just a simple plumbing charge pipe fracture. full scan will tell more of the story.

Skasol · 08-27-2016, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DandyKing

Nope. I now have what feels to be a N/A car. This is beyond my expertise so ill be taking it back to tuner and see what is going on. Peachy aint it...

My worst nightmare.

TRZ06 · 08-27-2016, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

If I could request one single thing from this tune it would be open valves when I have the car in sport or sport plus when the car isn't fully warmed up from the cold start procedure. And what I mean by that is that when I start the car even after its only sat for like 5 minutes and I throw it straight into sport before I leave, it takes like a minute for the valves to open again. The car is already warm.... Is there a way to allow for the valves to be controlled more like how it was when it was stock? I appreciate them being closed on actual cold start. It's sooooo much better than the rattle I used to get. But after I've been driving the car and it's already warm, it seems weird that it goes through that full process again even though the engine is warm.

I wonder if one of the valve controllers on the market would bypass the tune and allow that??

I wouldn't see why not.

TRZ06 · 08-27-2016, 03:34 PM

To VF:

Please when doing your update, allow limited boost in 1st and 2nd.

What good is more power if you can't put it to the ground.

I think you guys are on to an amazing product, but make it more refined and usable in the lower gears.

TruthGuY · 08-27-2016, 05:23 PM

Don't lower boost in 1-2... get better tires and learn to throttle the car...

clutchdj · 08-27-2016, 05:29 PM

i would actually like more power and/or timing up top after 4krpm w/o having to do downpipes. VF can you swing that while maintaining safe EGTs and stay within the efficiency range of the stock turbos?

1FastS4 · 08-27-2016, 05:52 PM

Is boost by gear even possible through the factory ECU?

Even if it is I think it's perfect with stickier tires.
The right pedal isn't an on/off switch, and there's rarely a need to be full throttle on the street. The modulation is really go so just practice rolling onto boost instead of mashing it to the floor.

BimmerFix · 08-27-2016, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRZ06

To VF:

Please when doing your update, allow limited boost in 1st and 2nd.

What good is more power if you can't put it to the ground.

I think you guys are on to an amazing product, but make it more refined and usable in the lower gears.

+ 1

mrduder · 08-27-2016, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrduder

If I could request one single thing from this tune it would be open valves when I have the car in sport or sport plus when the car isn't fully warmed up from the cold start procedure. And what I mean by that is that when I start the car even after its only sat for like 5 minutes and I throw it straight into sport before I leave, it takes like a minute for the valves to open again. The car is already warm.... Is there a way to allow for the valves to be controlled more like how it was when it was stock? I appreciate them being closed on actual cold start. It's sooooo much better than the rattle I used to get. But after I've been driving the car and it's already warm, it seems weird that it goes through that full process again even though the engine is warm.

I wonder if one of the valve controllers on the market would bypass the tune and allow that??

I wouldn't see why not.

Yeah valve controllers would work, but I'm fine with it. I love the way they did the cold start cycle. It's just when it's already warm that it seems odd that it has to go through the whole closed valve thing again. Like I'll go to the grocery store for like 5 minutes, get back in the car and it takes like a minute or so for the valves to open again. Even though the engine temp is warm. The car just goes through the whole cold start cycle again so the valves take like a minute or so to open the valves again. Before the tune, when you hit sport or sport plus, it would open the valves cold start or not. It's really not a deal breaker though. It's just me being picky =) it's literally the only thing that slightly annoys me about the tune.

Other than that this has been amazing and I love it. I'll be curious to see what the update brings. I would have considered a features only before I got this, because that's all I wanted it for in the beginning anyways. I had originally asked about that before I got the tune actually. But now that I have the extra power it would be hard to go back hahaha.

Blksnowflake · 08-28-2016, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRZ06

To VF:

Please when doing your update, allow limited boost in 1st and 2nd.

What good is more power if you can't put it to the ground.

I think you guys are on to an amazing product, but make it more refined and usable in the lower gears.

Of course not, this would be absurd. There goes power out of apexes, there goes the start at track events, there goes competitiveness at auto crossing events.
You want to neuter the car, really....really...seems counter intuitive to modify your car for more power then ask for it to be reduced, perhaps you need to remain stock. No offense man, but come on.
I second the suggestion that you need better tires, wider wheels and learn throttle modulation, the best tune available is the driver tune.

08-26-2016, 11:16 PM	#1501
mrduder Captain 472 Rep 787 Posts Drives: 2015 M4 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Irvine, CA iTrader: (0)	If I could request one single thing from this tune it would be open valves when I have the car in sport or sport plus when the car isn't fully warmed up from the cold start procedure. And what I mean by that is that when I start the car even after its only sat for like 5 minutes and I throw it straight into sport before I leave, it takes like a minute for the valves to open again. The car is already warm.... Is there a way to allow for the valves to be controlled more like how it was when it was stock? I appreciate them being closed on actual cold start. It's sooooo much better than the rattle I used to get. This is also caused by the car starting in efficient mode. Which is fine. But if I switch it to sport, I'd like the flaps to open. But after I've been driving the car and it's already warm, it seems weird that it goes through that full process again even though the engine is warm.
	Appreciate 0

08-27-2016, 10:28 AM	#1506
Skasol Private First Class 30 Rep 162 Posts Drives: M4 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Usa iTrader: (0)	Well good to hear VF is working on an update.
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08-27-2016, 02:01 PM	#1509
clutchdj Colonel 1877 Rep 2,398 Posts Drives: a few cars Join Date: May 2015 Location: NY iTrader: (6)	that's what i was thinking, could possibly be a stress crack from popping off. perhaps not re-tightened or untightened at some time.. water under the bridge at this point; however it's an easy replacment fix. I don't think any of the bigger turbo guys have broken the e-wastegate actuator yet so good chance that's not it the root cause. at best the motor would sound like scooby if there was no spark into any particular cylinder; so good hopefully it is just a simple plumbing charge pipe fracture. full scan will tell more of the story.
	Appreciate 0

08-27-2016, 03:34 PM	#1512
TRZ06 Lieutenant Colonel 629 Rep 1,753 Posts Drives: 16' M3 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (0)	To VF: Please when doing your update, allow limited boost in 1st and 2nd. What good is more power if you can't put it to the ground. I think you guys are on to an amazing product, but make it more refined and usable in the lower gears. __________________ 18? Camaro 2SS 1LE 16' M3 MG Ext. /SO Int. (DCT, Ohlin R/T, 19" wheels) 15' Audi S4 13' Audi TTRS (APR stage 1, MSS springs) 09' C6 Z06 08' M3 Interlagos Blue: 6sp, Tech.
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08-27-2016, 05:23 PM	#1513
TruthGuY Second Lieutenant 75 Rep 201 Posts Drives: E46 ///M E92 - M - F82 M - Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Brooklyn iTrader: (0)	Don't lower boost in 1-2... get better tires and learn to throttle the car...
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08-27-2016, 05:29 PM	#1514
clutchdj Colonel 1877 Rep 2,398 Posts Drives: a few cars Join Date: May 2015 Location: NY iTrader: (6)	i would actually like more power and/or timing up top after 4krpm w/o having to do downpipes. VF can you swing that while maintaining safe EGTs and stay within the efficiency range of the stock turbos? Last edited by clutchdj; 08-27-2016 at 05:38 PM..
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08-27-2016, 05:52 PM	#1515
1FastS4 Banned 119 Rep 180 Posts Drives: 2015 Audi S3 & 2016 M4 Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Vegas and Orange County iTrader: (0)	Is boost by gear even possible through the factory ECU? Even if it is I think it's perfect with stickier tires. The right pedal isn't an on/off switch, and there's rarely a need to be full throttle on the street. The modulation is really go so just practice rolling onto boost instead of mashing it to the floor.
	Appreciate 0