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      08-31-2015, 08:52 AM   #23
motex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///bproden View Post
You'll probably have vibration from 70-80mph because of torquing with wheels on the ground. I did and had to go back and tightened them while still on the jack.

Also, best to use an anti-sieze in case you want to easily remove them in the future.
That's interesting, I think I got a slight vibration on those speeds, will do the torquing on the jack, I did use white lithium grease to avoid rusting, do you think is worth to find the anti seize grease?
What is the ideal torque to apply?
Thanks for the tips!

Last edited by motex; 08-31-2015 at 12:43 PM..
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      08-31-2015, 12:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiceGuyEddie View Post
Place the spacer on the hub, support the wheel, and thread the top lug by hand. Without a helper to support the wheel and "spot" the correct lineup of the lug through the wheel and spacer, this was the most time consuming part for me.

Thread in the rest of the lugs and tighten them down in an alternating "star" pattern.
Good writeup, thanks for making the point to torque in the star pattern, it makes sure for proper installation and there are no vibrations after wheel torquing.

Everyone should invest in a torque wrench, Craftsman ones are only $60.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-m...1&blockType=G1
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      08-31-2015, 03:01 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Good writeup, thanks for making the point to torque in the star pattern, it makes sure for proper installation and there are no vibrations after wheel torquing.

Everyone should invest in a torque wrench, Craftsman ones are only $60.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-m...1&blockType=G1
Looks like a nice tool at the right price - thanks.
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      08-31-2015, 07:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motex View Post
That's interesting, I think I got a slight vibration on those speeds, will do the torquing on the jack, I did use white lithium grease to avoid rusting, do you think is worth to find the anti seize grease?
What is the ideal torque to apply?
Thanks for the tips!

I'm honestly not sure about the white lithium grease. Maybe someone else can chime in about that. I went to an auto store and picked up some anti sieze for like $7. Did a small amount just to keep it from sticking.

I think the recommended setting for torque is 88lbs. I did 90 lbs.
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      08-31-2015, 08:01 PM   #27
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Thanks, I used withe lithium grease because it was all I had at the moment, your anti seize options seems to be great due to the high temps.
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      08-31-2015, 08:21 PM   #28
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On some cars I have used lithium grease, some not. Fortunately never had one stick. Also, most spacers currently produced now include a small slot to insert a screwdriver in case one binds. Many of the older ones years ago did not.
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      09-01-2015, 07:13 PM   #29
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vibration is gone, so I think I will leave the spacers as they are, hopefully the white grease will hold for some time, thanks!
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      09-01-2015, 07:23 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///bproden View Post
I'm honestly not sure about the white lithium grease. Maybe someone else can chime in about that. I went to an auto store and picked up some anti sieze for like $7. Did a small amount just to keep it from sticking.

I think the recommended setting for torque is 88lbs. I did 90 lbs.
Torque is 105ft.lbs for F8X bolts.

We use Permatex Anti-Seize, this is available at most auto parts stores.
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      09-01-2015, 07:28 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Torque is 105ft.lbs for F8X bolts.

We use Permatex Anti-Seize, this is available at most auto parts stores.
Thanks!
One more question, someone suggested to torque the car while on the car lift or jack, is that necessary?
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      09-01-2015, 07:54 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motex View Post
Thanks!
One more question, someone suggested to torque the car while on the car lift or jack, is that necessary?
Wheel is installed/snugged in the air, final-torqued on ground.
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      09-01-2015, 08:25 PM   #33
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I knew I missed something - first post updated to acknowledge EAS. I typically try to be mindful of those things.
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      09-02-2015, 10:42 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Wheel is installed/snugged in the air, final-torqued on ground.
Thanks Tom!
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      09-02-2015, 02:17 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Torque is 105ft.lbs for F8X bolts.

We use Permatex Anti-Seize, this is available at most auto parts stores.
Damn, well glad I haven't died yet!
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      09-10-2015, 09:56 PM   #36
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You can also buy some used Snap On torque wrenches on Ebay for a decent price if you look.
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      09-11-2015, 09:29 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas
Quote:
Originally Posted by motex View Post
Thanks!
One more question, someone suggested to torque the car while on the car lift or jack, is that necessary?
Wheel is installed/snugged in the air, final-torqued on ground.
Get advice here Tom! On a related note I just sent you an email with some questions. Thanks!
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      10-12-2020, 10:18 PM   #38
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When applying a thin layer of anti seize, what areas should it be applied:

(1) Rear surface of spacer
(2) Front surface of spacer
(3) Inside the inner circle of the spacer
(4) Outer perimeter of the hub
(5) a combination of the above?

According to EAS install guide https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1273813

they applied only on (4) Outer perimeter of the hub.

But I'm seeing and reading people also applying it on (1) rear surface of spacer and/or (2) front surface of spacer.

So what's the "right" way?
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      10-12-2020, 10:42 PM   #39
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Burger Tuning also recommends applying anti seize only on the outer perimeter of the wheel hub (top and sides) per their instructions for their wheel spacers:

https://www.n54tech.com/instructions...tall_Guide.pdf
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      10-13-2020, 12:32 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
When applying a thin layer of anti seize, what areas should it be applied:

(1) Rear surface of spacer
(2) Front surface of spacer
(3) Inside the inner circle of the spacer
(4) Outer perimeter of the hub
(5) a combination of the above?

According to EAS install guide https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1273813

they applied only on (4) Outer perimeter of the hub.

But I'm seeing and reading people also applying it on (1) rear surface of spacer and/or (2) front surface of spacer.

So what's the "right" way?
Anti-seize should only go on the hub lip, nowhere else.
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      10-18-2020, 07:48 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankzlin79 View Post
When applying a thin layer of anti seize, what areas should it be applied:

(1) Rear surface of spacer
(2) Front surface of spacer
(3) Inside the inner circle of the spacer
(4) Outer perimeter of the hub
(5) a combination of the above?

According to EAS install guide https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1273813

they applied only on (4) Outer perimeter of the hub.

But I'm seeing and reading people also applying it on (1) rear surface of spacer and/or (2) front surface of spacer.

So what's the "right" way?
You DO NOT want to apply anti-seize on the hub, wheel or spacer mounting faces. The majority of the sheer resistance of the wheel/hub interface is the result of the friction force between the two surface from being clamped together by the bolts. Applying anti-seize or any type of lubricant significantly reduces the friction betweem the surfaces.

As was already stated, anti-seize application should be limited to the hub lip.
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