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      08-07-2016, 10:56 PM   #1
FR00ZN
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Climate Control/Air Conditioning Stopped Working

Just a general post on an issue i had over the weekend.

For some strange and unknown reason the climate control/ac stopped working for me, 2016 M3, and when i say stopped working i mean no air blowing at all, hot or cold.

I had checked all the fuses relating to this part of the system, both in the boot and under the bonnet (LHS) near the window wiper...all were good.

I took the car into service today to check it. Now i don't know what they did but what i was told is that if it happens again, to press the radio volume button off and on, if that doesn't work then to press the eject button on the radio to make the fan work again....hmmmm i'm not 100% convinced by this but not much i can say about it either.

It makes absolutely no sense to me why that would fix the issue but that's what i've been told

Thought to share the post in case anyone has the same issue in the future

Cheers
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      08-31-2017, 02:33 AM   #2
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I don't mean to revive this old thread, but I just had the same problem with my climate control. Your suggestion did not resolve the issue.

I was driving on the freeway earlier. Heater/ac off. I felt my feet getting hot and thought the car was on fire. I took the next freeway exit amd parked the car. Inspected the car for any visible fire. All clear. Restarted the car and turned on the ac. Lcd display is ok, but no air coming out from the vent. Turned on the heater. Same result. I do not believe the issue is the fuse as the lcd is working properly. There is just no air coming out of the vent. I will be making an appointment, but I thought I'd check here for any easy solution. Thanks.
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      08-31-2017, 02:34 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR00ZN View Post
Just a general post on an issue i had over the weekend.

For some strange and unknown reason the climate control/ac stopped working for me, 2016 M3, and when i say stopped working i mean no air blowing at all, hot or cold.

I had checked all the fuses relating to this part of the system, both in the boot and under the bonnet (LHS) near the window wiper...all were good.

I took the car into service today to check it. Now i don't know what they did but what i was told is that if it happens again, to press the radio volume button off and on, if that doesn't work then to press the eject button on the radio to make the fan work again....hmmmm i'm not 100% convinced by this but not much i can say about it either.

It makes absolutely no sense to me why that would fix the issue but that's what i've been told

Thought to share the post in case anyone has the same issue in the future

Cheers
Did you check the repair order? The work performed is usually outlined on the final work order.
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      09-06-2017, 07:24 PM   #4
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They didn't give a written repair order, infact none was made.

I've since started going to a different service center
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      09-07-2017, 05:43 AM   #5
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Not calling anyone out here. Did you perhaps turn the fan speed down to ZERO? It all stops then....
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      09-11-2017, 10:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynameisplayer View Post
Not calling anyone out here. Did you perhaps turn the fan speed down to ZERO? It all stops then....
LOL...definitely wasn't the issue
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      12-20-2019, 09:01 PM   #7
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Not to bring an old thread back to life but this just happened to me. Drove the car this morning all was good. Stopped went into my clients office and came back out and no heat nor anything coming from the vents on full blast or even the defrosters. What was the solution from the dealer?
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      01-18-2020, 05:50 PM   #8
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Had this exact problem happen to me.
Got my 2015 F82 M4 less than 6 months ago, it was serviced at the time.

The A/C stopped working no air coming out of the vents for 2-3 days. It was a 40 degree day in Adelaide, got a error battery message pop up on the dash.
It started working again on it's on a few days later.

I took it to Adelaide BMW who quoted $240 per hour for diagnostics.
They needed to keep it a minimum 2 days to carry out current draw test and to isolate the fault of the current draw.

They called me 3 days later saying they couldn't find any issues. The service consultant was nice enough not to charge me.

I racked my brain and the only think I could think of was that I had a small USB car phone charger plugged in overnight. It never turns off and is a dual port.
The service bloke at BMW reckons it may have caused the battery discharge and the A/C was turned off by the car.
He says people have had similar issues who go camping with mini fridges plugged into these sockets in their cars.

Would like to know your thoughts guys.
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      01-20-2020, 01:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inguyendo View Post
Had this exact problem happen to me.
Got my 2015 F82 M4 less than 6 months ago, it was serviced at the time.

The A/C stopped working no air coming out of the vents for 2-3 days. It was a 40 degree day in Adelaide, got a error battery message pop up on the dash.
It started working again on it's on a few days later.

I took it to Adelaide BMW who quoted $240 per hour for diagnostics.
They needed to keep it a minimum 2 days to carry out current draw test and to isolate the fault of the current draw.

They called me 3 days later saying they couldn't find any issues. The service consultant was nice enough not to charge me.

I racked my brain and the only think I could think of was that I had a small USB car phone charger plugged in overnight. It never turns off and is a dual port.
The service bloke at BMW reckons it may have caused the battery discharge and the A/C was turned off by the car.
He says people have had similar issues who go camping with mini fridges plugged into these sockets in their cars.

Would like to know your thoughts guys.
That could be right, some 12V cigarette lighter sockets don't disconnect immediately or at all with the ignition state.

Sometimes 2 sockets in the same car can behave differently - one going off with ignition, another not. Anything left drawing current however small can eventually cause errors due to the battery running low, if the car has a semi-sophisticated energy management system it can even turn off none essential electrical systems so it can still start.

The AC fan runs on an electric motor as it can be turned on remotely even when the car is locked to ventilate the car and continues to work even when the start/stop cuts out the engine...the ac compressor I am not sure of, that's likely off the engine.

I trickle charge my battery once a month to keep it healthy and ready for action, might be worth grabbing a charger if you haven't got one. Battery is $2000+ so it's worth keeping it alive as long as possible!
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      01-30-2020, 02:06 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfurse View Post
That could be right, some 12V cigarette lighter sockets don't disconnect immediately or at all with the ignition state.

Sometimes 2 sockets in the same car can behave differently - one going off with ignition, another not. Anything left drawing current however small can eventually cause errors due to the battery running low, if the car has a semi-sophisticated energy management system it can even turn off none essential electrical systems so it can still start.

The AC fan runs on an electric motor as it can be turned on remotely even when the car is locked to ventilate the car and continues to work even when the start/stop cuts out the engine...the ac compressor I am not sure of, that's likely off the engine.

I trickle charge my battery once a month to keep it healthy and ready for action, might be worth grabbing a charger if you haven't got one. Battery is $2000+ so it's worth keeping it alive as long as possible!
Thanks for your input, was considering a trickle charger.

The bloke from BMW recommended this one, which is what they use. https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-b...-xs/p/A9809705

Can't seem to find it in stock in Adelaide/Melbourne.

What do you use?
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      01-31-2020, 05:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inguyendo View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfurse View Post
That could be right, some 12V cigarette lighter sockets don't disconnect immediately or at all with the ignition state.

Sometimes 2 sockets in the same car can behave differently - one going off with ignition, another not. Anything left drawing current however small can eventually cause errors due to the battery running low, if the car has a semi-sophisticated energy management system it can even turn off none essential electrical systems so it can still start.

The AC fan runs on an electric motor as it can be turned on remotely even when the car is locked to ventilate the car and continues to work even when the start/stop cuts out the engine...the ac compressor I am not sure of, that's likely off the engine.

I trickle charge my battery once a month to keep it healthy and ready for action, might be worth grabbing a charger if you haven't got one. Battery is $2000+ so it's worth keeping it alive as long as possible!
Thanks for your input, was considering a trickle charger.

The bloke from BMW recommended this one, which is what they use. https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-b...-xs/p/A9809705

Can't seem to find it in stock in Adelaide/Melbourne.

What do you use?
Ctek are great, I've got one for the wife's car. They do a few models that can deal with lithium batteries so worth taking a look at their website and hunting online for the right lithium model (don't get a US model though!).

I ended up spending ~$100ish on a Noco G3500 that did both types of battery (lithium and lead acid/AGM) it's been great (Every Battery in Melbourne sorted me out from memory). Noco do a range of chargers so take a look at them and weigh up what you want.
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