Is remapping an M4 Heritage a good thing or will it ruin it?

[Arash666]

Hi,

Is remapping an M4 Heritage a good thing or will it ruin it? and also, is better to have an ECU/ electrical remapping or the old fashion (changing inlets and cat and all of that faf)?

thanks ya'll

[M3SQRD]

Are you asking whether getting an ecu engine tune or changing intakes, cats and exhaust is the better option? An ecu stage 1 engine tune will yield around a min of 80-90 whp and 100-110 lbf-in. Intake, HFC and exhaust will net you 30 whp if you’re lucky. Engine tuning on a turbocharged car is always going to easily win.

[hellokitty]

If you are not interested in roll racing or pushing big numbers, the perfect spot for me was:

GTS map + GTS DCT + GTS steering + CS EDC + Euro MDM

This setup maintains the balance of the car, but improves upon it in every way.

[Arash666]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Are you asking whether getting an ecu engine tune or changing intakes, cats and exhaust is the better option? An ecu stage 1 engine tune will yield around a min of 80-90 whp and 100-110 lbf-in. Intake, HFC and exhaust will net you 30 whp if you’re lucky. Engine tuning on a turbocharged car is always going to easily win.

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That's exactly what i'm asking. i meant which one is more natural for the car. i don't care about how many more HPs is achieved, but which one is better for the car in terms of suspensions, wheel, brakes, exhaust, cooling system etc. coz having 200 extra HP defo requires better brakes, cooling system, exhaust system etc which ECU tuning does't cover. but traditional engine upgrades is "traditionally" upgrading all above(suspensions, wheel, brakes, exhaust, cooling system etc).

[Arash666]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

If you are not interested in roll racing or pushing big numbers, the perfect spot for me was:

GTS map + GTS DCT + GTS steering + CS EDC + Euro MDM

This setup maintains the balance of the car, but improves upon it in every way.

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Not interested in roll racing or pushing for big numbers...
Those upgrades you've mentioned sounds reasonable and it maintains the car's balance, which is the point i'm trying to make and achieve. thanks

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Arash666

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That's exactly what i'm asking. i meant which one is more natural for the car. i don't care about how many more HPs is achieved, but which one is better for the car in terms of suspensions, wheel, brakes, exhaust, cooling system etc. coz having 200 extra HP defo requires better brakes, cooling system, exhaust system etc which ECU tuning does't cover. but traditional engine upgrades is "traditionally" upgrading all above(suspensions, wheel, brakes, exhaust, cooling system etc).

Removing/replacing cats, intake system, mid-pipe and muffler are done primarily for sound. They’ll have a small effect on power and torque on a turbocharged car (with stock turbo, decreasing back pressure always helps). Traditionally, on NA cars, you have to change all of the above (plus cams, headers, etc.) along with an ecu tune to net a small increase in hp and torque, say somewhere between 10-20% increase. Turbocharged cars can easily net 20% increase in a mild tune. A gts level tune on the f8x gives you this increase.

The f8x has a well over-designed cooling system that can handle large power increases without any changes. However, once you hit a certain threshold, you’d need upgrade radiators and coolers. If you’re looking for an OTS stage 2 or lower, the stock system is fine.

Major suspension upgrades (excluding HAS and lowering springs) are primarily done by people who frequently track their cars. Some drag strip suspension changes can be made to improve putting power to the ground (adjustable dampers can help control how fast weight transfer occurs). The level of upgrades depends on your goals and budget. A great street setup is around $3000-3500 whereas a track setup is $7500-$15000. Increasing power levels to stage 2 and below won’t require suspension upgrades if you’re just driving on the street. HAS and lowering springs are used to improve aesthetics by reducing the large oem fender to tire gaps.

Brake kit upgrades are only needed by people who track and, even then, not everyone needs to buy a brake kit. The stock system can be improved by using 2-piece rotors, higher performance brake pads, higher performance brake fluid, caliper rebuild kits that use SS domed pistons and Ti pad isolator plates. The highest performing brake kit doesn’t reduce stopping distances which are primarily dominated by tire grip. The advantage of brake kits is they allow you to maintain the same braking distances repeatedly whereas the stock system distance start to increase after the 2nd or 3rd repeated heavy braking.

So just upgrading power doesn’t mean you have to upgrade the complete exhaust system, suspension system and brake system. Define your goals and layout what changes you want because it’s always cheaper to do it right the first time rather than spending a little upfront yet out growing the parts quickly and having to pay more to incrementally improve things over and over.

[Arash666]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Removing/replacing cats, intake system, mid-pipe and muffler are done primarily for sound. They’ll have a small effect on power and torque on a turbocharged car (with stock turbo, decreasing back pressure always helps). Traditionally, on NA cars, you have to change all of the above (plus cams, headers, etc.) along with an ecu tune to net a small increase in hp and torque, say somewhere between 10-20% increase. Turbocharged cars can easily net 20% increase in a mild tune. A gts level tune on the f8x gives you this increase.

The f8x has a well over-designed cooling system that can handle large power increases without any changes. However, once you hit a certain threshold, you’d need upgrade radiators and coolers. If you’re looking for an OTS stage 2 or lower, the stock system is fine.

Major suspension upgrades (excluding HAS and lowering springs) are primarily done by people who frequently track their cars. Some drag strip suspension changes can be made to improve putting power to the ground (adjustable dampers can help control how fast weight transfer occurs). The level of upgrades depends on your goals and budget. A great street setup is around $3000-3500 whereas a track setup is $7500-$15000. Increasing power levels to stage 2 and below won’t require suspension upgrades if you’re just driving on the street. HAS and lowering springs are used to improve aesthetics by reducing the large oem fender to tire gaps.

Brake kit upgrades are only needed by people who track and, even then, not everyone needs to buy a brake kit. The stock system can be improved by using 2-piece rotors, higher performance brake pads, higher performance brake fluid, caliper rebuild kits that use SS domed pistons and Ti pad isolator plates. The highest performing brake kit doesn’t reduce stopping distances which are primarily dominated by tire grip. The advantage of brake kits is they allow you to maintain the same braking distances repeatedly whereas the stock system distance start to increase after the 2nd or 3rd repeated heavy braking.

So just upgrading power doesn’t mean you have to upgrade the complete exhaust system, suspension system and brake system. Define your goals and layout what changes you want because it’s always cheaper to do it right the first time rather than spending a little upfront yet out growing the parts quickly and having to pay more to incrementally improve things over and over.

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Thanks a mill mate, you literally answered AND explained all of my Qx , very informative, again, thanks a lottttt.

Max i'd go for will be Stage-2, and probably few times a year will go for a track day, car won't be doing more than 2-3000mils a year.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Arash666

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Thanks a mill mate, you literally answered AND explained all of my Qx , very informative, again, thanks a lottttt.

Max i'd go for will be Stage-2, and probably few times a year will go for a track day, car won't be doing more than 2-3000mils a year.

You’re welcome!

For the track, get a track pad and a brake fluid with a high wet boiling point. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and starts absorbing moisture as soon as you’ve installed it. Castrol SRF is the highest performing and also the most expensive by a decent amount. Motul, AP Racing, Red Line, PFC, etc. all make excellent brake fluid with high wet boiling points. Pads from PFC, HAWK, Ferodo, Cobalt, etc. offer several different brake pad compounds. It’s easy to swap pads on the f8x.

You’ll find it hard to not drive it because each trip in the car is worth it. 2-3k miles only will be tough