Have any of ya'll replaced fuel lines?

[blockdoc]

Hi folks,
Just a shot here. I recently purchased an inline ethanol sensor from Fuel-It,
The setup came with zero instructions, and they have not responded to 3 queries over the last 2 weeks. Phone numbers all just say "email us" lol.

Here is my question. I have been able to figure out how to replace the flex line which goes to the HPFP. What I can't figure out is if there is any way to replace the stock nylon line from the LPFP in the tank at passenger seat without haveing to drop the whole exhaust system. If that is required, it is not worth the effort.

Any suggestions???


Thanks,
Brian

[FriedPiston]

Fuel-It! is active on these forums. Try sending them a PM. If you're still getting no luck, try watching their DIY videos on YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/user/stevezvidz/videos

Here's one for example:

[blockdoc]

Originally Posted by nars3000

Fuel-It! is active on these forums. Try sending them a PM. If you're still getting no luck, try watching their DIY videos on YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/user/stevezvidz/videos

Here's one for example:

Thanks for the reply.

Ive spent a week looking on you tube etc. Nothing for the S55. The video above is what actually mislead me into thinking I had gotten the wrong connectors. The kit Fuel It sent is for replacement of factory lines from tank to sensor to HPFP.

[blockdoc]

This is more than maddening. "Fuel-It has chosen to not accept private messages".

[FriedPiston]

Originally Posted by blockdoc

This is more than maddening. "Fuel-It has chosen to not accept private messages".

Try reaching out to them via www.n54tech.com/forums/

[blockdoc]

Follow Up.

Since rumor has it that Flex Fuel tuning may be available in the near future for our platforms, I thought I'd follow up on my initial post, since this may be something yall will need to do.

Fuel It sent a great kit...unfortunately, there were no instructions for the S55, and no videos for our platform. The kit for the S55 Inline Blue Tooth ethanol sensor (I ordered the raw signal for future proofing...which would be used for any DME based input) contains a COntinental ethanol sensor, a blue tooth transmitter, and two hoses intended to replace the entire low pressure fuel line set up.

The very abbreviated procedure is as outlined below

1. Remove rear seat and access fuel line at the low pressure fuel pump. (Lift up seat liner, remove 6 nylon nuts to access fuel pump area under passenger seat)

2. Remove the two underbody panels on driver's side from tank to engine bay and set aside ( a series of 8mm nuts, 10mm nylon nuts, and torx (T20?) bolts along body edge)

3. You will see 4 lines (two small black hydraulic lines, a single larger fuel line, and a larger white/clear vent line). The fuel line runs up toward the engine bay where it connects using the typical BMW quick connect, to the braided line running up to the HPFP under the intake manifold in the engine bay.

I was initially confused because the online videos showed connecting to
the braided line. It didn't dawn on me that the connection had to be made
directly to the HPFP (just before the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor)

4. Now the fun begins. It is a quite a PITA to fish the long supplied fuel line along the original line on the passenger side, across the fuel tank and under the rear seat area to the connection at the LPFP. I tried many times using wire, coat hanger etc. I eventually found success by feeding line up, across, and just barely able to see progress next to the exhaust as it heads toward the opening under the seat. Be patient, it will eventually get there!! I chose to start work in engine bay before trashing existing fuel line.

To get to the HPFP, it is best to follow the TIS guidelines for specific details, but the general steps are as follows. Open Hood

5. Remove carbon fiber brace
6. Remove charge cooler (TIS outlines a rather involved procedure to drain the coolant from the auxillary coolant pump under front passenger side. I simply disconnected top coolant hose and patiently waited for most coolant to drain into a bucket) You will need to remove J-pipe and whatever obvious connections you see to lift off cooler and set aside
7. Remove J-Pipe (cold side charge pipe)
8. Remove Throttle body by removing four screws. (I found a mirror helpful for the underside two screws)
9. Disconnect the DME from the four connectors (DME is attached to the intake manifold).
10. Patiently, remove 5 nuts and two bolts securing Intake to block (be careful as they are easy to drop ...ask me how I know! A magnet is helpful here along with a very bright light
Lift off manifold and set aside.
11. Remove filter intake
12. Observe the braided fuel line coming into the LPF sensor and HPFP attached with another quick connect.

13. Go back under car and disconnect nylon line from braided line. SOme fuel will drain out.

14. Uncouple braided fuel line in engine bay and remove.

15. Mount Continental sensor under car and connect short hose from sensor to LPF sensor in engine bay

16. Disconnect nylon line at LPFP and pull out from under car.

17. Connect long line from ethanol sensor and run along bottom of car. Pull up slack near fuel pump, cut line to appropriate length, install connector to hose and attach to fuel pump.

Thats pretty much it. Pain in the ass LOL, but I was able to do a deep cleaning, find old tools which I had dropped earlier (Ha).

I made electrical connections in engine bay (tapped into an ACC 12v source along one of the looms, and grounded against frame) Tidied everything up with cloth electrical tape

You will need to replace the throttle body gasket, and the six gaskets on intake plenum (per TIS) when reassembling. I have no idea if this is necessary but since it took so much time, figure I would not take a chance and just replace.

Cheers

[FriedPiston]

Sounds very tedious. Knowing what you know now, how many hours of labor would you say this requires?

[blockdoc]

Originally Posted by nars3000

Sounds very tedious. Knowing what you know now, how many hours of labor would you say this requires?

Bet I could do this in 4-5 hours a second time around. There is some down time waiting for parts (gaskets, single use bolts for torsion bar).

Probably took a good ten hours this time (but I am not super efficient as I work on my car for the enjoyment of the work.)Took the opportunity to replace
The cold side J-Pipe for an additional meth bung

[FriedPiston]

Originally Posted by blockdoc

Bet I could do this in 4-5 hours a second time around. There is some down time waiting for parts (gaskets, single use bolts for torsion bar).

Probably took a good ten hours this time (but I am not super efficient as I work on my car for the enjoyment of the work.)Took the opportunity to replace
The cold side J-Pipe for an additional meth bung

I feel you! Every time I do a DIY, I make sure to do things right 100% of the way, so it may take me an hour or two longer compared to a tech that's getting paid by the book.

I neither have the patience nor free time to undertake this kind of project, but thank you for sharing!