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      01-18-2018, 10:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espressoo View Post
This is a really good tip! So once you unscrew the brake lines from the calipers, no fluids dripped out causing a big mess? Once you reinstall the lines, you still had to get all the air/bubbles out with this technique though?
Yeah, no fluids dripped out at all. I was surprised. You're right that you'll still need to bleed the brakes to get the air out of the new lines afterwards though.
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      01-19-2018, 10:19 AM   #24
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Stand by for updates on Sunday. I'm going to Monza to torture these things.


Last edited by FlyingLow78; 01-19-2018 at 10:26 AM..
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      01-19-2018, 12:04 PM   #25
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Jealous.

Oh and car looks gorgeous!
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      01-19-2018, 12:06 PM   #26
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Wait, why do your front rotors now look like they're slotted not Xdrilled? From your install pics I see matching drilled.

Are my eyes deceiving me?
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      01-19-2018, 02:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Wait, why do your front rotors now look like they're slotted not Xdrilled? From your install pics I see matching drilled.

Are my eyes deceiving me?
I have two sets of front rotors--cross-drilled for street use and tracks that aren't demanding on brakes (like the Nürburgring), and slotted for track use only at places like Monza and Spa.
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      01-19-2018, 02:26 PM   #28
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Cool! Thanks for clarifying.
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      01-19-2018, 06:26 PM   #29
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Thank you for the detailed write up.

Just a quick question regarding the oem pad sensor; some have said that stoptech kit comes with pads that uses oem pad sensor so no cutting or zip ties required. Is that true?
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      01-19-2018, 06:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DRS55 View Post
Thank you for the detailed write up.

Just a quick question regarding the oem pad sensor; some have said that stoptech kit comes with pads that uses oem pad sensor so no cutting or zip ties required. Is that true?
Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It's inconsistent. Sorry...
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      01-20-2018, 02:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
I have two sets of front rotors--cross-drilled for street use and tracks that aren't demanding on brakes (like the Nürburgring), and slotted for track use only at places like Monza and Spa.
How often do you swap rotors? Isn’t it a pain?

The rears look massive in you recent pic. Red calipers pairs nicely with grey.
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      01-20-2018, 02:55 PM   #32
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Stand by for updates on Sunday. I'm going to Monza to torture these things.

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      01-20-2018, 11:42 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espressoo View Post
How often do you swap rotors? Isn’t it a pain?

The rears look massive in you recent pic. Red calipers pairs nicely with grey.
I swap the fronts before and after every track day. I didn't do this with the stock set, but it wasn't so great for rotor wear. I like having drilled rotors for street use, and slotted are great on track, so I'll happily remove four extra bolts per corner. It only adds a few minutes, and I like working on my car.

The rear rotors are a little bigger than stock, but not by much.
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      01-21-2018, 03:09 AM   #34
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I can brake sooooo late!!!! :-O

Photos later!! My GF was shooting at Ascari.
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      01-21-2018, 08:54 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
I can brake sooooo late!!!! :-O

Photos later!! My GF was shooting at Ascari.
Hahaha. Nice.

What tire setup again?
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      02-05-2018, 07:53 AM   #36
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Thank you for sharing your quality post~!!! really appreciated time and effort you took to post ~!!
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      02-06-2018, 09:11 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Hahaha. Nice.

What tire setup again?
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s, 275/30 and 305/30-19s.

Since I crashed at the track just after my last post in this thread, perhaps I'll discuss the brakes some more after the insurance claims are settled.
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      02-06-2018, 09:29 AM   #38
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Shit. Hope you are not injured, and that the rest works out favorably.
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      03-20-2018, 10:34 AM   #39
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For those interested, I can confirm the 18" 513M wheel will clear the StopTech brakes. The fronts have 3-5mm of clearance from the caliper, but the rears are so close to the narrow part of the wheel barrel that a 5mm spacer is required.
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      06-24-2018, 03:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
Here are some not-terribly-scientific numbers for those interested. For the caliper weights, keep in mind I was going for total weight with pads, so others' claims about caliper weight is probably limited to just the caliper itself and doesn't take into account the weight of the pads or mounting brackets.

Slotted front ST rotor with hat: 23.8 lbs. I didn't take a good enough picture, but the drilled front rotor is 22.8 lbs.



The drilled rear rotor with hat is 23 lbs. Despite the narrower cast iron annulus, the hat is much more complex because of the parking brake drum.



A loaded front caliper and bracket is 13.4 lbs.



A loaded rear caliper and bracket is 8.8 lbs.



A comparison of the large annulus front rotor (right) and standard annulus rear rotor (left).



Both rotors are 32mm thick. The fronts have gaps in the hat to allow heat to escape.



Cooling vanes inside the ST rotor. The design of the hat will make my DIY ducts more effective than they were on the stock rotors.

Very impressed. Which OHLINS are you running?
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