Line Lock?

[sA x sKy]

Not sure if this is the right section for it, but it's an issue that needs to be addressed. Does anyone know if any company is out there developing a line lock for our cars? I've been to the drag strip with my car 3x time now and maybe have done 12-15 runs total and maybe 3-4 times have I ever been able to do a proper burnout to get the rear tires warmed up. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. 90% of the time the rear tires just spin without lighting up. Sometimes LC activates when I mash the throttle and THEN press on the brake (it should activate with brake first then gas).

Basically.. We need a line lock lol.

And before anyone says it, that's why there is launch control, buts it's a proven fact that LC puts way too much stress on the drivetrain than doing a traditional off the line launch. No need to break axles when it isn't necessary. And no need for the fishtails that it causes either.

[drexplode]

sounds like you want a mustang!

no line lock necessary around a twisty x-cross!

[sA x sKy]

Originally Posted by drexplode

sounds like you want a mustang!

no line lock necessary around a twisty x-cross!

Lol farthest thing from it to be honest.

I'm just trying to get this car to break records..

[pikkagtr]

Originally Posted by drexplode

sounds like you want a mustang!

no line lock necessary around a twisty x-cross!

line lock won't work very well on the mountains chasing that hachiroku delivering tofu

[sA x sKy]

I've gone as far as pulling out two fuses in the trunk that have to do with ABS. I didn't pull out the three fuses in the front due to time constraints. The ECU intervened a little less without the two fuses but I'm going to have to experiment with taking out the other three fuses at some point.

[GGreek5]

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
I run stock tires at the track. Lower them to 22psi, pull around the water box, back up until I'm right in front of the water box, leave it in drive with all traction off, stomp on the gas. As soon as the tires start to spin, I slowly and lightly depress the brake with my left foot, and do a very large burnout until I think the tires are hot enough. Then I line up at the tree, engage launch control, and done. I cut 1.7 60ft, and ran 11.23@126.89mph. And I can do that consistently, with just the jb4 map 7 and race Gas.

[socalgasking]

Originally Posted by GGreek5

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
I run stock tires at the track. Lower them to 22psi, pull around the water box, back up until I'm right in front of the water box, leave it in drive with all traction off, stomp on the gas. As soon as the tires start to spin, I slowly and lightly depress the brake with my left foot, and do a very large burnout until I think the tires are hot enough. Then I line up at the tree, engage launch control, and done. I cut 1.7 60ft, and ran 11.23@126.89mph. And I can do that consistently, with just the jb4 map 7 and race Gas.

Do you take the burnout into 3rd gear?

[GGreek5]

Originally Posted by socalgasking

Do you take the burnout into 3rd gear?

Not sure. Possibly. I know I really cook them good. I still have rubber stuck on the rear fenders from months ago.

[saxon]

Originally Posted by GGreek5

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
I run stock tires at the track. Lower them to 22psi, pull around the water box, back up until I'm right in front of the water box, leave it in drive with all traction off, stomp on the gas. As soon as the tires start to spin, I slowly and lightly depress the brake with my left foot, and do a very large burnout until I think the tires are hot enough. Then I line up at the tree, engage launch control, and done. I cut 1.7 60ft, and ran 11.23@126.89mph. And I can do that consistently, with just the jb4 map 7 and race Gas.

Burning out with stock tires will do nothing more than ruin them. The compound doesn't need a lot of heat to warm up like slicks or drag radials. With stock tires all you should do is spin them a tiny bit to get debris off and you're good to go

[apexit]

As long as they are warm from highway driving I agree. I know when I leave the house or work after leaving the car parked for a while I need to be a bit softer on the pedal or TC kicks in.

[YasM3]

If you do not want launch control to activate by accident. Do this.

Use your M1 button for your burnout setting. DSC off and Instead of using trans in S3, use S1 or S2- this way LC will not accidentally activate.

Set your M2 button to your LC settings. DSC off and S3. So when you go to the track. Just press M1, do your burnout. When your burnout is over press M2 for your launch settings done and done.

Also for the burnout, do what Greek says. Drive AROUND the water box, not through it. You do not want to drive through it with street tires. Back up to the wet spot. Smash the guess then hit the brake to do your burnout..

[SakhirM4]

6MT would fix this.

[sA x sKy]

Originally Posted by GGreek5

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
I run stock tires at the track. Lower them to 22psi, pull around the water box, back up until I'm right in front of the water box, leave it in drive with all traction off, stomp on the gas. As soon as the tires start to spin, I slowly and lightly depress the brake with my left foot, and do a very large burnout until I think the tires are hot enough. Then I line up at the tree, engage launch control, and done. I cut 1.7 60ft, and ran 11.23@126.89mph. And I can do that consistently, with just the jb4 map 7 and race Gas.

I'm not using stock tires. I'm using RE-71r's & I did lower them to 20 psi. I did everything you're saying and like I said, the car will move forward slightly but no smoke will appear in the rear. I will try going around the water box next Sunday when I'm going back to Atco. Although I'll be using M/T ET Streets II that day so I don't think hooking will be a problem anymore..

Can you post that time slip? With a 1.7 60' and that trap speed, you should be at 11.0 if not 10.9...

Originally Posted by apexit

As long as they are warm from highway driving I agree. I know when I leave the house or work after leaving the car parked for a while I need to be a bit softer on the pedal or TC kicks in.

You're forgetting that on a test & tune day, you can't just race right away after getting to the track. It's a good 45min to 1 hour staging wait time.

Originally Posted by darge82

If you do not want launch control to activate by accident. Do this.

Use your M1 button for your burnout setting. DSC off and Instead of using trans in S3, use S1 or S2- this way LC will not accidentally activate.

Set your M2 button to your LC settings. DSC off and S3. So when you go to the track. Just press M1, do your burnout. When your burnout is over press M2 for your launch settings done and done.

Also for the burnout, do what Greek says. Drive AROUND the water box, not through it. You do not want to drive through it with street tires. Back up to the wet spot. Smash the guess then hit the brake to do your burnout..

This is genius! I'm definitely going to give this a go next weekend!

Originally Posted by SakhirM4

6MT would fix this.

Well that doesn't help the situation now does it..

[YasM3]

Originally Posted by sA x sKy

This is genius! I'm definitely going to give this a go next weekend!

Not a problem. Let us know how it works out but I bet it will fix your issues.

But like I said, just make sure you DO NOT drive through the water box.

I have been drag racing @ tracks for over 15 years now. With a drag radial/street tire you have to go around and back into the end of the water box. Do not back into the actual puddle. If you were on a slick then driving through is OK. The problem with driving through the waterbox on a street tire is you are dragging the water up with you as well. Not good and you will just hurt 60ft times.

If you were on a slick. You would drive into the water box. Do a quick spin in the water box to get the tires wet. Pull out of the box (<---hehe) then do your burnout.

Also I believe you run @ Atco correct? You should check for track rental days instead of test and tunes. You get way more runs, they have better prep and way less cars. No waiting in lines, much much easier to make good passes. I believe there is one coming up with some available spots left. Its more expensive than a test and tune night but way worth it. @ Atco I think they limit their rentals to only 20 or so cars for the day. Instead of hundreds at a test and tune.

I have been wanting to hit Atco but I have not had time plus I need some good drag radials before I even try....

Here is a quick incar vid of my Cobra just so you get the idea. You can see where I do a quick spin in the waterbox, pull up and then do my burnout even though I am on a slick. Always make sure you are burning out not in the waterbox.

[GGreek5]

Originally Posted by sA x sKy

I'm not using stock tires. I'm using RE-71r's & I did lower them to 20 psi. I did everything you're saying and like I said, the car will move forward slightly but no smoke will appear in the rear. I will try going around the water box next Sunday when I'm going back to Atco. Although I'll be using M/T ET Streets II that day so I don't think hooking will be a problem anymore..

Can you post that time slip? With a 1.7 60' and that trap speed, you should be at 11.0 if not 10.9...



You're forgetting that on a test & tune day, you can't just race right away after getting to the track. It's a good 45min to 1 hour staging wait time.



This is genius! I'm definitely going to give this a go next weekend!



Well that doesn't help the situation now does it..

Don't have a pic in my phone of the slip. I believe there is one in the video my buddy made.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1129730

[stvding]

Maybe just cut the brake line to the rear? Lol, I am just kidding!!!! It won't work