OBD Unlock [No bench unlock Required] *** bootmod3 New Feature Release for the S55

[timweezy]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

A charger is extremely important for the OBD UNLOCK process. Literally the only time you can possibly brick your DME is during the OBD unlock process if battery voltage drops low enough to cause the car to no longer power the DME while the unlock is taking place. It takes about 260 seconds to unlock and during that time voltage is CRITICAL. If a drop in voltage happens during that 260 seconds, the DME can be lost which will require the DME to be pulled and flashed on the bench. While this isn’t the end of the world, it would be HIGHLY inconvenient.

Flashing, on the other hand, is easily recoverable should a flash fail and will NEVER brick the DME or require removal.

Would the OBD unlock jumped to a 2nd car running be as safe as unlocking with a charger? Really want to avoid a brick at all costs.

[tek818]

Originally Posted by timweezy

Would the OBD unlock jumped to a 2nd car running be as safe as unlocking with a charger? Really want to avoid a brick at all costs.

The second car w/ jumper cables can be used in place of a charger per CaryTheLabelGuy . I did this for my OBD unlock and online flash and had no problems.

[hatepotholez]

Originally Posted by tek818

The second car w/ jumper cables can be used in place of a charger per CaryTheLabelGuy . I did this for my OBD unlock and online flash and had no problems.

this doesn't always work. i was on remote with ptf and my car said low voltage and turned off on me. the other car was running, and I had new cables. Maybe my cables were bad or it didn't last for the time they were diagnosing, but I suggest a 20A min charger.

[chewbakam4]

Why not just go to one of their dealers and unlock there with a charger? Can’t be more than 1 hour labor charged to get installed and you’re good to go. I’d still just get one of those chargers to have it at home in the garage if ever need be and not just for this car. 99.9% of the time you won’t need it but when you do it sucks to go looking then. Just common sense.

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Originally Posted by hatepotholez

this doesn't always work. i was on remote with ptf and my car said low voltage and turned off on me. the other car was running, and I had new cables. Maybe my cables were bad or it didn't last for the time they were diagnosing, but I suggest a 20A min charger.

If the battery is already somewhat low, the alternator from the second running car may not be enough to stop the voltage drain, especially at idle. However, it should generally be enough to stabilize voltage if the battery is already properly charged. Cars that don’t get driven a lot may have issues as their batteries may not be in the best shape, voltage-wise.

That said, I think jumper cables and a secondary running car is really a last-resort. If you’re going to do it, it would be best to have somebody in the other car holding the engine above idle to increase the charge going to your battery from the alternator.

[m4journey]

Originally Posted by chewbakam4

Why not just go to one of their dealers and unlock there with a charger? Can’t be more than 1 hour labor charged to get installed and you’re good to go. I’d still just get one of those chargers to have it at home in the garage if ever need be and not just for this car. 99.9% of the time you won’t need it but when you do it sucks to go looking then. Just common sense.

The 1-hour labour charge is enough to buy the charger.

[eandy]

Quick question pretty certain I know the answer already but seeing as vast amount of knowledge here + others might wonder same thing.

The GTS DCT TCU upgrade as mentioned does exactly what it says.

Friend in UK that does e-sys coding etc, he has the CS EDC settings, GTS Diff, Steering etc, etc.

I presume he can just map on the above for me and that'll in the same way as say using Bimmercode to code in door lights for reverse have no effect on the map side at all as these are handled separate?

Just want to make sure I'm not going to conflict BM3.

[MelP]

It will be fine, as you are programming different modules on the car.

In the same way that by programming them without a tune does not effect the mapping of the car.

Just go for it and then realise how much better the car will be.

[bb1857]

I can firsthand say that the battery voltage is super critical. My car is still dead because I thought the jumper cables would work but it was not enough. I had Dzenan on with me for what seemed to be all weekend and the car still won't flash the ecu. I likely messed up when I tried to boost the car and hit with a charger that supplies way too many amps and I believe it tripped the isolating switch to protect the ecu.

My thoughts before having the car towed to the dealer is to swap the battery with a traditional lead acid. I was hoping that would allow the connection to the ecu, allowing the flash to proceed and then at least get it running. Has anyone tried putting a lead acid battery in temporarily?

My guess is this will cost me a new lithium battery which really sucks but I made a costly mistake it seems.

[M&M]

You need the charger because the unlock takes longer than a normal flash. It's critical to have stable voltage during a flash, and the F-series draws a lot of juice when flashing. A 90 second flash should be fine if the battery is strong, but the unlock process is longer than that.

[M&M]

Originally Posted by bb1857

I likely messed up when I tried to boost the car and hit with a charger that supplies way too many amps and I believe it tripped the isolating switch to protect the ecu.

Have you tried replacing the DME relay?

[Camnyc]

Originally Posted by M&M

Have you tried replacing the DME relay?

Ditto, I would look into this first and the main battery fuse before swapping out the battery, the amount of factory failsafes will surprise you.

[bb1857]

Originally Posted by M&M

Have you tried replacing the DME relay?

Originally Posted by M&M

Have you tried replacing the DME relay?

I have not tried that but will look into it this morning and see if I can find one close. Thanks for the tip!

[MelP]

This may be worth mentioning as a word of warning regarding the .coding file that gets created when trying to flash the car. The file resides in the Agent folder.

My issue over the weekend was as it was not working the first few times I tried, so I decided (incorrectly) that I should download the agent again and delete the one I had installed, as maybe that would get it working again.

This obviously deleted the .coding file in the agent folder when I first tried which then meant there was a mismatch on the BM3 servers to what I had.

So in case you ever download the agent again, its worth only replacing the.jar files you download and not anything else.

although do have a question now in regard if I ever use another laptop to tune the car again. Would I need to copy across the .coding file every time for the flash to work?

[Eleventeen]

PTF customer service is out of this world! Dzenno got me up and running last night. When I say "last night", I mean LATE last night. I thought he was going to check out my issue today after I got home from work. So I forwarded him one of the error messages I was getting expecting him to see it in the morning. He replied to my ticket and literally got out of bed at 11:00pm to log into my laptop and get everything sorted out! For the record, I think I created the issue on my end by deleting an older agent version and installing a newer version (instead of updating). This removed critical DME data from the folder and prevented the unlock process from completing. The car is running great now! I can't believe the level of service PTF provides! Thanks, Dzenno!!!

[vasi_M3]

Does anyone know if the OTS stg2 map shifted the torque curve to the right of the RPM range? Feels like big torque comes between 2,200-2500?.

Im stock everything for reference and I prefer this torque shift if it indeed is true, the car has better grip off the line..almost like a Alfa Giulia power delivery

[MelP]

Originally Posted by Eleventeen

PTF customer service is out of this world! Dzenno got me up and running last night. When I say "last night", I mean LATE last night. I thought he was going to check out my issue today after I got home from work. So I forwarded him one of the error messages I was getting expecting him to see it in the morning. He replied to my ticket and literally got out of bed at 11:00pm to log into my laptop and get everything sorted out! For the record, I think I created the issue on my end by deleting an older agent version and installing a newer version (instead of updating). This removed critical DME data from the folder and prevented the unlock process from completing. The car is running great now! I can't believe the level of service PTF provides! Thanks, Dzenno!!!

Sounds like exactly the same issue as I had.

Would be good to have a warning regarding this so doesn’t happen unnecessarily to others.

But as you said support was top notch and cannot be faulted.

[m4journey]

Originally Posted by vasi_M3

Does anyone know if the OTS stg2 map shifted the torque curve to the right of the RPM range? Feels like big torque comes between 2,200-2500?.

Im stock everything for reference and I prefer this torque shift if it indeed is true, the car has better grip off the line..almost like a Alfa Giulia power delivery

Check out the EAS dyno... it will be around 3k where it shoots like a rainbow.

[ThomasR]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Sorry one more question. Is this Schumacher charger sufficient for the unlock and flash processes or do I need to get a bigger wheeled charger?

Does NOT look good to me. From the manual:

• REGULAR BATTERY – Automatically switches between the 15A and 40A variable charge rate or charges continuously at the 15A rate, depending on the battery. Use for charging automotive, marine and deep-cycle batteries. Not intended for industrial applications.

[ThomasR]

Saw this one at Home Depot today. Looks like a normally stocked item at most stores:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-3...EC80/300385140



Locked in at 30amps continuous. $99

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by ThomasR

Does NOT look good to me. From the manual:

• REGULAR BATTERY – Automatically switches between the 15A and 40A variable charge rate or charges continuously at the 15A rate, depending on the battery. Use for charging automotive, marine and deep-cycle batteries. Not intended for industrial applications.

It worked out well for unlock and several flashes already so far. I was worried too but not anymore. Voltage stayed smoothly pegged at 13.4 the whole time.

[proTUNING Freaks]

Hey guys, just a quick update. Offline flasher's coding issue seems to be resolved. We were able to find a way to reproduce the issue on our test M4 here and confirm it fixed. We're going through testing now.

Offline flasher now recodes at the end (no separate step needed) and it unlocks if a prior unlock hasn't been done automatically. If you're interested in participating in testing of the offline flasher let us know.

We've incorporated a number of changes as well, some based on user suggestions in this thread. When it comes to the offline flasher, we've reduced the number of menu options for simplicity and to minimize end user mistakes.