Crank Hub reapir (no warranty)

[Em-power]

can anyone describe to me exactly what happens? does the crank pulley bolt back out? does it snap?
i'm trying to grasp what happens so maybe i can come up with some sort of solution for myself.

[cryptz]

if you look at maxpsi's solution you can probably gather the problem. As i understand it the crank hub, and the sprockets that are responsible with moving the timing chain/cams/valves are held together with the tension of the bolt and a abrasive shim. if the bolt losens then they are under less pressure and more prone to becoming out of sync.

There have been reports of this occurring and the bolt is still reported to be torqued to spec. solutions tend to be a single piece, but then people have mentioned that the install is much more complicated then. most of the solutions involve drilling the crank, to pin it much like they do a supercharger install. i believe max psi pins the crank and also the pullie. they are a two piece design, i believe because it makes install easier than a single piece.

thats my laman term explanation, i have never even been under my car =). Full disclosure i am considering the max psi solution. I may hold off a little longer, i have a 2015 but it was CPE so i technically have an extra year of warranty before i need to have a solution. at this point i wouldnt consider owning the car long term without addressing this. Also there have been some attempts at this in the past that have resulted in failure. Hopefully we get a verified solution sooner than later. I have 13k miles and no issues to date, but I just saw someone with a 2018 reporting this issue.. Someone also just recently mentioned bmw may have a new part coming. That person suggested there was an abrasive texture inside where the bolt enters. That sounds like a very bad solution to me, but I assume if we see any new part from bmw to address this it will actually work.. No clue if that is true and no clue how that would work for existing cars..

ps someone just released a nut capture to prevent the bolt from backing out, but as i mentioned there have been some reports of this happening and the bolt is still seemingly torqued to spec. I suspect that is a bit hard to know 100% for sure.

[Em-power]

Originally Posted by cryptz

if you look at maxpsi's solution you can probably gather the problem. As i understand it the crank hub, and the sprockets that are responsible with moving the timing chain/cams/valves are held together with the tension of the bolt and a abrasive shim. if the bolt losens then they are under less pressure and more prone to becoming out of sync.

There have been reports of this occurring and the bolt is still reported to be torqued to spec. solutions tend to be a single piece, but then people have mentioned that the install is much more complicated then. most of the solutions involve drilling the crank, to pin it much like they do a supercharger install. i believe max psi pins the crank and also the pullie. they are a two piece design, i believe because it makes install easier than a single piece.

thats my laman term explanation, i have never even been under my car =). Full disclosure i am considering the max psi solution. I may hold off a little longer, i have a 2015 but it was CPE so i technically have an extra year of warranty before i need to have a solution. at this point i wouldnt consider owning the car long term without addressing this. Also there have been some attempts at this in the past that have resulted in failure. Hopefully we get a verified solution sooner than later. I have 13k miles and no issues to date, but I just saw someone with a 2018 reporting this issue.. Someone also just recently mentioned bmw may have a new part coming. That person suggested there was an abrasive texture inside where the bolt enters. That sounds like a very bad solution to me, but I assume if we see any new part from bmw to address this it will actually work.. No clue if that is true and no clue how that would work for existing cars..

ps someone just released a nut capture to prevent the bolt from backing out, but as i mentioned there have been some reports of this happening and the bolt is still seemingly torqued to spec. I suspect that is a bit hard to know 100% for sure.

ok thats kinda what i suspected and thought about doing, just drill and pin the crank bolt.
thanks!

[mrgicm]

I would be very sceptic in going with the maxpsi solution in such a early phase where I have not seen enough people running it over a period of time to prove that is is 100% fix in the longrun. Not saying it doesnt work just that I personally would like to be sure.

I am really dissapointed to see that it happend to MY18 as well as this not surley proves that the updated bedplate is not the solution.

It would be interesting to get in touch with ARP to see if they can provide some kind of solution with a different grade bolt maybe in combination with some loctite that is less prone to harmonic vibration and getting loose. Just from the top of my head.

My car is still at the shop with just the bolt, hub and washer being replaced as the chain is 100% oem spec so no need to change the chain and the tensioner.

[mrgicm]

Originally Posted by moonshine89

I'm 18 zcp (production date 8/17) is in the shop right now with the same issue. Saw the same camshaft error codes. Limp mode.

BMW told me today initially should be a quick fix, but later told me they're gonna have to do more tests and stuff. Meaning they're gonna look at the crank hub bolt and timing. I mentioned when I dropped it off that I'm concerned about SCH, but he said he'd never heard of it.

Also asked me about aftermarket parts and tuning. I have a bad feeling it's gonna be SCH.

Did you get the error on both exhaust and intake camshaft or just one? I think that determins how much it has spun.

[moonshine89]

Unfortunately I think it was both intake and exhaust. Didn't hear any knocking. Hopefully it's not that fucked up.

They're opening her up today to check everything. So I'll know later this afternoon the extent of damage. Said it was gonna be covered under warranty for now. Hopefully that doesn't change.

[Aapparition90]

Did the error pop up during normal drive or were you giving it some. Just trying to figure out what the last straw or if any exist.also tune running additional boost ?

[Evren]

What model year cars effecting of this problem?

I have 15 M4. i want to make ecu tune but i am not sure becasue of this issue.

[mrgicm]

So an Update,

Got a call my car is ready and no codes now runs and drives perfectly, after checking timing it was slightly off and I can confirm that indeed the new hub is different than the old one that was in my car. The new one is not that flat, dont know how to describe it.

Also in my case the mechanic found the washer was broken.

So for now the best I can do is check every oil change (4.000miles) if it is torqued to spec (200Nm).

[cryptz]

Originally Posted by mrgicm

So an Update,

Got a call my car is ready and no codes now runs and drives perfectly, after checking timing it was slightly off and I can confirm that indeed the new hub is different than the old one that was in my car. The new one is not that flat, dont know how to describe it.

Also in my case the mechanic found the washer was broken.

So for now the best I can do is check every oil change (4.000miles) if it is torqued to spec (200Nm).

can you request the part#s of what they installed? seems like a reasonable request

[mrgicm]

Originally Posted by cryptz

can you request the part#s of what they installed? seems like a reasonable request

Yes ofcourse, I will pick up the car this week so I will getthe part number and take pictures of the old hub.

[Evren]

Originally Posted by mrgicm

Yes ofcourse, I will pick up the car this week so I will getthe part number and take pictures of the old hub.

Where did you buy the new crank hub from? Is it aftersale or original part?

[mrgicm]

OEM part. Ordered it from my local dealer.

[Evren]

[QUOTE=mrgicm;23005355]

Originally Posted by Evren

Where did you buy the new crank hub from? Is it aftersale or original OEM part ordered from my local BMW dealer.

its fine. please share the part number after you have the car. i will be very appriciated.

[Evren]

Originally Posted by mrgicm

OEM part. Ordered it from my local dealer.

its fine. please share the part number after you have the car. i will be very appriciated.

[mrgicm]

The part number is in the first post.

And I also changed the vanos bolts due to they had to be loose to retime the car and bmw says not to use this bolt after loosing them.

[jwoo]

Originally Posted by mrgicm

The part number is in the first post.

And I also changed the vanos bolts due to they had to be loose to retime the car and bmw says not to use this bolt after loosing them.

did they fix it under warranty? did you have a tune?

[Schultz28]

Originally Posted by mrgicm

So an Update,

Got a call my car is ready and no codes now runs and drives perfectly, after checking timing it was slightly off and I can confirm that indeed the new hub is different than the old one that was in my car. The new one is not that flat, dont know how to describe it.

Also in my case the mechanic found the washer was broken.

So for now the best I can do is check every oil change (4.000miles) if it is torqued to spec (200Nm).

I’m glad someone else knows about the new hub design!

I’m still looking into trying to get some pictures/part # as well. I would think it’s under the same part number and they just updated the design.

But yeah, to me it looked like a 80grit metalized sand paper on the inside on the ring/sprocket.

[moonshine89]

Is the new hub standard in newer models like an 18? Technically my production time was 8/17.

In gonna try to get pics of the hub if I can. Would it be odd to request my replaced parts? I mean they're technically mine right?

[mrgicm]

Originally Posted by moonshine89

Is the new hub standard in newer models like an 18? Technically my production time was 8/17.

In gonna try to get pics of the hub if I can. Would it be odd to request my replaced parts? I mean they're technically mine right?

Since it is under the same part number I dont think it is that easy to tell unless someone comes forward with data of buying the old/new hub and when exactley they bought it.

[Schuey]

OP - What kind of power and torque figures are you running on your car?

Also, it is true all ZCP cars have the update bedplate?

Thanks.

[mrgicm]

Originally Posted by Schuey

OP - What kind of power and torque figures are you running on your car?

Also, it is true all ZCP cars have the update bedplate?

Thanks.

I am running BM3 Stg2 OTS map for over a year.