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      04-16-2017, 06:23 AM   #111
Henry655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoss1610 View Post
I took delivery of my F83 M4 convertible a couple of weeks ago. I got mine with a port installed M Performance Exhaust. I love the exaust but the Actve Sound Design (“ASD”) fake exhaust sound in the cabin was driving me crazy. In my view, it’s cheesy under any circustances, but with the M Performance Exhaust it creates a very annoying drone and it competes so the driver can’t properly hear the true sound of a very expensive and very well designed exhaust system. I looked at a bunch of posts and debated whether to ask my dealer to de-program ASD or just find the module and pull the plug. The positioning and access in the convertible is a little different than in the coupe (it’s actually a bit easier), and I couldn’t find any convertible specific DIY posts, so I created this one. Please excuse my poor photography skills and feel free to message me with any questions.

The ASD module is attached to the sound syste amplifier and is located in the driver side rear corner of the trunk under some trim panels just in front of the driver side convertible top latch mechanism. The location (with nothing removed) is shown in this photo:



One cover, one storage tray and two trim panels need to be removed to access this area. Begin by opening the lid of the small and useless storage tray on the left side of the trunk. When you lift the lid all the way, just give it a little pull and the tabs will release from the slots, then you can remove the lid and set it aside. This photo shows the lid removed:



Then slip your fingers or a trim tool under an edge of the storage tray and pry it upward to remove it. There are no fasteners; it just comes loose with a gentle pull. This photo shows the tray removed:



Now remove all of the button fasteners around the carpeted trim piece covering the area as well as the fasteners holding the plastic convertible top latch cover in place. I didn’t count or highlight the fasteners on the carpeted trim, but they are all easy to see and easy to remove. The plastic convertible top mechanism cover is held in place by three button fasteners. All fasteners are the same, so you don’t need to remember which ones go where. Use a flat blade or trim tool to pry up the top of the fastener. Once it moves, you can pull it with your fingers and the whole unit will come out. Use gentle firm pressure but don’t force it. Once the fasteners are all removed, start by removing the plastic convertible top mechanism cover and set it aside. Now pull the carpeted trim piece out from under the trunk weather stripping (it should come out easily) and either remove it or pull it back enough to reach your hand into the amplifier area if you can get that to work (I removed mine entirely but others have said that it can be done without complete removal). If you do remove it (and when you put it back), be very careful of the convertible top mechanism and its wiring, if you push too hard or don’t free it up properly, you could damage some of those parts. Once the trim covers are removed, it will look like this:



The rest is pretty simple. The part that you’ve exposed is the sound system amplifier and the ASD unit is attached to it at the rear end (toward the taillight). It is the part circled in this photo:



The wiring harness is held in place by a locking lever, which when rotated will free the harness from the unit. In order to release the lever, press the small plastic tab in with your finger or a screwdriver and then lift the lever and the harness will come out. This photo shows the harness close-up:



Once the harness is removed, cover the open end with a piece of electrical tape and secure it to its own wire or something else with a zip tie or electrical tape. I ended up just looping mine back around itself and securing it that way. When it’s removed and secured, the area will look like this:



Now just reinstall all of the trim pieces you removed using the button fasteners. Again, if you removed the carpeted floor trim, be patient and careful putting it back so that you don’t damage any of the wiring or equipment in that area.

The whole project took me about 30 minutes, so not a big time investment. The harness is easy enough to remove and replace, so I tried it out both ways a few times (making sure I completely shut off the ignition before removing or replacing the harness) to make sure I liked the new sound before I put it all back together. In my case, with the M Performance Exhaust, it was an easy decision; the natural sound of the car without artificial “enhancement” is far superior. However, it is a personal choice and many disagree, so this is a relatively painless way to try it both ways before making a permanent decision. You could even leave the trim off for a few days and try it out connected and disconnected over a longer period of time. If you do that, I would suggest replacing at least the plastic convertible top mechanism cover because it protects the wiring and motors in there and it’s very easy to remove and reinstall.

Thanks for this - I have an M4 Convertible arriving within the next week or two, and was concerned that it would be a lot more difficult to access this area.

I purchased a harness from technic pnp to keep everything connected, but disabled. Might post a couple of pictures once done.

I take it the amplifier is on the passenger side in a RHD car? Anyone know?

Last edited by Henry655; 04-16-2017 at 06:23 AM.. Reason: typo
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      04-26-2017, 06:13 PM   #112
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Thank you BMOSS1610

Disconnected and yanked this thing out this morning. I'm loving my car so much more. Very quiet in Efficient mode and just the right amount of loud for me in Sport+. Will eventually get a bit louder since I plan to dump the secondary cats and resonator.

I honestly cannot believe how terrible this ASD thing is, I felt like I was getting bombarded with low frequency bass all the time! Now I can clearly hear my music and road noise! LOL!

Here's a pic for those of you interested in what the module looks like removed.
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      04-29-2017, 03:51 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MORELAP View Post
Why are you making this SO complicated? I use BimmerLink (from App store) with Carista bluetooth OBD2 plug. I can turn on and off ASD as well control the Exhaust Flap. There are numerous other options, like erasing codes, reading values, etc. For $50, no brainier...
Once you deactivate do u need to leave the carista plugged in all the time ?

Is this the item ??
Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion with dealer level technology

Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion with dealer level technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dYpbzbMPY6RZS

Thanks
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      04-29-2017, 11:01 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdgiids View Post
Once you deactivate do u need to leave the carista plugged in all the time ?

Is this the item ??
Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion with dealer level technology

Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion with dealer level technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dYpbzbMPY6RZS

Thanks
ASD stays off. As far as I know, exhaust flap must be done with each vehicle start so you would leave adapter attached.
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      05-12-2017, 09:05 AM   #115
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Started to mess with the ASD module yesterday. My car has the Competition Package so it wasn't as clear to me how to "turn off ASD." However, I applied "non-active" for competition pack. and it made the cabin much quieter. Induction noise is all-but-gone, and the cabin roar is reduced significantly. It almost seems like the exhaust valve isnt opening now, but I haven't confirmed if outside the vehicle is the same sound level and character.

Not sure if I'll keep it like this or not yet, but it's definitely a different feeling compared to the standard ZCP settings.
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Last edited by OhioRiderAaron; 05-13-2017 at 11:10 AM..
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      05-12-2017, 03:27 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Started to mess with the ASD module yesterday. My car has the Competition Package so it wasn't as clear to me how to "turn off ASD." However, I applied "non-active" for competition pack. and it made the cabin much quieter. Induction noise is all-but-gone, and the cabin roar is reduced significantly. It almost seems like the exhaust valve is opening now, but I haven't confirmed if outside the vehicle is the same sound level and character.

Not sure if I'll keep it like this or not yet, but it's definitely a different feeling compared to the standard ZCP settings.
If you want to completely disable, you can use Cheat Codes or pull cable.
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      05-13-2017, 11:14 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almaretto View Post
If you want to completely disable, you can use Cheat Codes or pull cable.
Almaretto, I added your "cheat codes" to the list when the Esys started up. However, I dont remember seeing this cheat code, maybe it was there, cant remember now (i was drinking a beer at the same time so who knows..).

What settings does that change? 3000 had like engine, cabin, comp. pack, etc. drop downs. Honestly, I wasnt sure what all to change.
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      05-13-2017, 12:51 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Almaretto, I added your "cheat codes" to the list when the Esys started up. However, I dont remember seeing this cheat code, maybe it was there, cant remember now (i was drinking a beer at the same time so who knows..).

What settings does that change? 3000 had like engine, cabin, comp. pack, etc. drop downs. Honestly, I wasnt sure what all to change.
otakar.

But, if you look at F30 sheet, F020 disables.
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      05-14-2017, 02:51 PM   #119
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Thanks for this. Very easy to follow. I had my active sound coded off for the past 18 months. It got reactivated during a software update. Like you I have the M Performance exhaust and frankly find the sound of the car with M Performance & no active sound to be glorious. With active sound on... I can't stand it. It's not the very idea of active sound that bothers me. It's that its very bad. It has a fake harmonic quality to it that just doesn't sound right. To your point - it sounds even worse with the M Performance exhaust because its still running the same sound clips even though the engine now sounds very different.

Anyway, using your direction here I invested 20 minutes and unplugged the module. I would have removed it and smashed it on the rocks but... may be necessary down the road for whatever reason. Much thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoss1610 View Post
I took delivery of my F83 M4 convertible a couple of weeks ago. I got mine with a port installed M Performance Exhaust. I love the exaust but the Actve Sound Design (“ASD”) fake exhaust sound in the cabin was driving me crazy. In my view, it’s cheesy under any circustances, but with the M Performance Exhaust it creates a very annoying drone and it competes so the driver can’t properly hear the true sound of a very expensive and very well designed exhaust system. I looked at a bunch of posts and debated whether to ask my dealer to de-program ASD or just find the module and pull the plug. The positioning and access in the convertible is a little different than in the coupe (it’s actually a bit easier), and I couldn’t find any convertible specific DIY posts, so I created this one. Please excuse my poor photography skills and feel free to message me with any questions.

The ASD module is attached to the sound syste amplifier and is located in the driver side rear corner of the trunk under some trim panels just in front of the driver side convertible top latch mechanism. The location (with nothing removed) is shown in this photo:



One cover, one storage tray and two trim panels need to be removed to access this area. Begin by opening the lid of the small and useless storage tray on the left side of the trunk. When you lift the lid all the way, just give it a little pull and the tabs will release from the slots, then you can remove the lid and set it aside. This photo shows the lid removed:



Then slip your fingers or a trim tool under an edge of the storage tray and pry it upward to remove it. There are no fasteners; it just comes loose with a gentle pull. This photo shows the tray removed:



Now remove all of the button fasteners around the carpeted trim piece covering the area as well as the fasteners holding the plastic convertible top latch cover in place. I didn’t count or highlight the fasteners on the carpeted trim, but they are all easy to see and easy to remove. The plastic convertible top mechanism cover is held in place by three button fasteners. All fasteners are the same, so you don’t need to remember which ones go where. Use a flat blade or trim tool to pry up the top of the fastener. Once it moves, you can pull it with your fingers and the whole unit will come out. Use gentle firm pressure but don’t force it. Once the fasteners are all removed, start by removing the plastic convertible top mechanism cover and set it aside. Now pull the carpeted trim piece out from under the trunk weather stripping (it should come out easily) and either remove it or pull it back enough to reach your hand into the amplifier area if you can get that to work (I removed mine entirely but others have said that it can be done without complete removal). If you do remove it (and when you put it back), be very careful of the convertible top mechanism and its wiring, if you push too hard or don’t free it up properly, you could damage some of those parts. Once the trim covers are removed, it will look like this:



The rest is pretty simple. The part that you’ve exposed is the sound system amplifier and the ASD unit is attached to it at the rear end (toward the taillight). It is the part circled in this photo:



The wiring harness is held in place by a locking lever, which when rotated will free the harness from the unit. In order to release the lever, press the small plastic tab in with your finger or a screwdriver and then lift the lever and the harness will come out. This photo shows the harness close-up:



Once the harness is removed, cover the open end with a piece of electrical tape and secure it to its own wire or something else with a zip tie or electrical tape. I ended up just looping mine back around itself and securing it that way. When it’s removed and secured, the area will look like this:



Now just reinstall all of the trim pieces you removed using the button fasteners. Again, if you removed the carpeted floor trim, be patient and careful putting it back so that you don’t damage any of the wiring or equipment in that area.

The whole project took me about 30 minutes, so not a big time investment. The harness is easy enough to remove and replace, so I tried it out both ways a few times (making sure I completely shut off the ignition before removing or replacing the harness) to make sure I liked the new sound before I put it all back together. In my case, with the M Performance Exhaust, it was an easy decision; the natural sound of the car without artificial “enhancement” is far superior. However, it is a personal choice and many disagree, so this is a relatively painless way to try it both ways before making a permanent decision. You could even leave the trim off for a few days and try it out connected and disconnected over a longer period of time. If you do that, I would suggest replacing at least the plastic convertible top mechanism cover because it protects the wiring and motors in there and it’s very easy to remove and reinstall.
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      05-14-2017, 05:42 PM   #120
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As an aside, it shouldn't be this hard to defeat a "feature" like this. C'mon BWM!
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      05-15-2017, 01:16 PM   #121
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2015 BMW M4  [10.00]
Friendly warning!!!

To those that have physically disconnected your ASD module, take note that if you go to a dealer and they attempt to perform a software update, they will be blocked. I helped so far two folks stuck in a similar situation. So remind yourselves to reconnect it or face the music.
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      05-16-2017, 05:17 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almaretto View Post
If you want to completely disable, you can use Cheat Codes or pull cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Almaretto View Post
otakar.

But, if you look at F30 sheet, F020 disables.
Almaretto

Few quick questions:

1) Should the Model Range value be set to F001 or F020/F021?

2) Should I just set the drop-down value or edit the werte value directly?
I ask this as the otakar cheat code suggests to set it to werte=05, but 05 means F001. yet everywhere on the forums it is suggested to change to F020/F021
:F020/F021 = 0D
:F001 = 05
Which one is correct?

3) Also, is it required to change the Engine parameter to anything specific?

See E-Sys screenshot below...
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      05-16-2017, 05:44 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspannu View Post
Almaretto

Few quick questions:

1) Should the Model Range value be set to F001 or F020/F021?

2) Should I just set the drop-down value or edit the werte value directly?
I ask this as the otakar cheat code suggests to set it to werte=05, but 05 means F001. yet everywhere on the forums it is suggested to change to F020/F021
:F020/F021 = 0D
:F001 = 05
Which one is correct?

3) Also, is it required to change the Engine parameter to anything specific?

See E-Sys screenshot below...
Model alone is fine = F020/F021. But, you can also try engine and see what you prefer. Though, I think after certain firmware level, any change can sometimes result in disabling.
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      06-12-2017, 03:17 PM   #124
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I just disconnected the cable on my car and wow, it is a huge difference. I like it much better.
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      01-13-2018, 03:50 PM   #125
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BMoss, you still out there? Because photobucket is Satan's gift, your photos are no longer available ... can you repost them on imgur?

ciaranob and I are curious. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoss1610 View Post
I took delivery of my F83 M4 convertible a couple of weeks ago. I got mine with a port installed M Performance Exhaust. I love the exaust but the Actve Sound Design (“ASD”) fake exhaust sound in the cabin was driving me crazy. In my view, it’s cheesy under any circustances, but with the M Performance Exhaust it creates a very annoying drone and it competes so the driver can’t properly hear the true sound of a very expensive and very well designed exhaust system. I looked at a bunch of posts and debated whether to ask my dealer to de-program ASD or just find the module and pull the plug. The positioning and access in the convertible is a little different than in the coupe (it’s actually a bit easier), and I couldn’t find any convertible specific DIY posts, so I created this one. Please excuse my poor photography skills and feel free to message me with any questions.

The ASD module is attached to the sound syste amplifier and is located in the driver side rear corner of the trunk under some trim panels just in front of the driver side convertible top latch mechanism. The location (with nothing removed) is shown in this photo:



One cover, one storage tray and two trim panels need to be removed to access this area. Begin by opening the lid of the small and useless storage tray on the left side of the trunk. When you lift the lid all the way, just give it a little pull and the tabs will release from the slots, then you can remove the lid and set it aside. This photo shows the lid removed:



Then slip your fingers or a trim tool under an edge of the storage tray and pry it upward to remove it. There are no fasteners; it just comes loose with a gentle pull. This photo shows the tray removed:



Now remove all of the button fasteners around the carpeted trim piece covering the area as well as the fasteners holding the plastic convertible top latch cover in place. I didn’t count or highlight the fasteners on the carpeted trim, but they are all easy to see and easy to remove. The plastic convertible top mechanism cover is held in place by three button fasteners. All fasteners are the same, so you don’t need to remember which ones go where. Use a flat blade or trim tool to pry up the top of the fastener. Once it moves, you can pull it with your fingers and the whole unit will come out. Use gentle firm pressure but don’t force it. Once the fasteners are all removed, start by removing the plastic convertible top mechanism cover and set it aside. Now pull the carpeted trim piece out from under the trunk weather stripping (it should come out easily) and either remove it or pull it back enough to reach your hand into the amplifier area if you can get that to work (I removed mine entirely but others have said that it can be done without complete removal). If you do remove it (and when you put it back), be very careful of the convertible top mechanism and its wiring, if you push too hard or don’t free it up properly, you could damage some of those parts. Once the trim covers are removed, it will look like this:



The rest is pretty simple. The part that you’ve exposed is the sound system amplifier and the ASD unit is attached to it at the rear end (toward the taillight). It is the part circled in this photo:



The wiring harness is held in place by a locking lever, which when rotated will free the harness from the unit. In order to release the lever, press the small plastic tab in with your finger or a screwdriver and then lift the lever and the harness will come out. This photo shows the harness close-up:



Once the harness is removed, cover the open end with a piece of electrical tape and secure it to its own wire or something else with a zip tie or electrical tape. I ended up just looping mine back around itself and securing it that way. When it’s removed and secured, the area will look like this:



Now just reinstall all of the trim pieces you removed using the button fasteners. Again, if you removed the carpeted floor trim, be patient and careful putting it back so that you don’t damage any of the wiring or equipment in that area.

The whole project took me about 30 minutes, so not a big time investment. The harness is easy enough to remove and replace, so I tried it out both ways a few times (making sure I completely shut off the ignition before removing or replacing the harness) to make sure I liked the new sound before I put it all back together. In my case, with the M Performance Exhaust, it was an easy decision; the natural sound of the car without artificial “enhancement” is far superior. However, it is a personal choice and many disagree, so this is a relatively painless way to try it both ways before making a permanent decision. You could even leave the trim off for a few days and try it out connected and disconnected over a longer period of time. If you do that, I would suggest replacing at least the plastic convertible top mechanism cover because it protects the wiring and motors in there and it’s very easy to remove and reinstall.
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      09-24-2018, 05:24 PM   #126
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I read on a different thread that turning ASD off will effect the amount of burbles? I've turned ASD off in bimmercode and with BM3 GTS tune I have near zero burbles. The GTS tune is supposed to have more burbles and yet it is less than stock tuning.

For those that have unplugged the ASD; did your burbles change after the disconnection?
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      04-06-2019, 12:16 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlook637 View Post
I read on a different thread that turning ASD off will effect the amount of burbles? I've turned ASD off in bimmercode and with BM3 GTS tune I have near zero burbles. The GTS tune is supposed to have more burbles and yet it is less than stock tuning.

For those that have unplugged the ASD; did your burbles change after the disconnection?
Just had my BMW F80 ZCP coded. I had ASD on with MPE and before the GTS tune my burbles were loud and always active when let off the accelerator.

Now with the GTS tune coding with latest software update and ASD switched off my burbles too seem very low in sound and not always active as soon I let go of the accelerator.

I wonder now if ASD has got to do with anything or maybe the new 2019 BMW software update has quietened my burbles down
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      04-06-2019, 07:37 PM   #128
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I unplugged my ASD module and it had zero impact on burbles. Still burbles like crazy in sport/sport+ mode.
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      08-19-2022, 10:10 PM   #129
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I disabled Active Sound via bimmercode today, finally. Feels good. Doing a ~3 hour trip tomorrow. Looking forward to a quieter cabin even in sport/sport+.
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      07-12-2023, 10:02 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jzmnn View Post
Just had my BMW F80 ZCP coded. I had ASD on with MPE and before the GTS tune my burbles were loud and always active when let off the accelerator.

Now with the GTS tune coding with latest software update and ASD switched off my burbles too seem very low in sound and not always active as soon I let go of the accelerator.

I wonder now if ASD has got to do with anything or maybe the new 2019 BMW software update has quietened my burbles down
I saw a video (sorry don't know how to post it here) but in it he had BimmerCode, BimmerLink and Bootmod3. Now with ASD off (BimmerCode) there were NO burbles. But he turned it back on and still no burbles, but with ASD active (BimmerCode) all he had to do was turn on "Sound Tuning" (BimmerLink) and they came back. And he was able to adjust them with Bootmod3.

Now Bootmod3 is a $650 program compared to the $30 or so $ app from BimmerCode and BimmerLink. But it does a lot more if you want to really increase H/P and such. But too expensive if you just want simple mods.

Don't know if he didn't have BimmerCode at all if he would have run into losing burbles. BUT in that video BimmerLink fixed it and it was easy to turn them on/off as desired.
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