F80 M3 / F82 M4 Break-In, Engine Oil, Launch Control Tidbits from Owners Manual

[lugnutm4]

Originally Posted by Drizz

I just don't get why these cars need to be broken in so much more carefully than any other modern car of the road today. What gives!? I had a previous M car ('07 M Coupe) so I'm familiar with the requirements, but I never actually stuck to the limited usage during the first 1,200 miles and the car was just fine. Can anyone explain why a modern German car needs this? Every Ferrari is thrown out onto the track for a few hot laps straight off the assembly line and no issues there.

There are no iron liners in the Aluminum engine block. There is now a twin-wire arc-sprayed coating on the Aluminum cylinder walls. It makes it lighter.

[Dackelone]

New M4/M3 first oil service... 1,200 miles or 2K kms...



Since a lot of you guys are starting to take delivery of your new M4/M3's... I thought I would put this PSA out for you.


Basically the first service is just like on the old cars. The only thing that is new is that now BMW says you MUST replace the oil pan plug/screw and diff screw/plug with new ones! The crush o-ring is now built into the screw.



F8x S55 engine...

Oil filter: 11 42 7 566 327

Screw for engine oil pan/plug: 11 11 7 849 396

Screw for diff: 33 11 7 525 064



Oil engine quantity (6,5l) of 6.9 quarts.


BMW LL4 engine oil:

83 21 0 398 504 (0w-40)

or

83 21 0 398 507 (5w-30)



Oil for diff/LSD (1l quantity): 83 22 9 405 462 (Castrol SAF-XJ ) API GL5, 75w140


NOTE: BMW says changing the transmission oil is not necessary. But if it were my car, and I was keeping the car for a long time - I know I would change it.

Dackel



original post...
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1007985

[BitchinManWheels]

Will I have warranty problems if you do not adhere to the break in "rules"? Can BMW know if the car went 150mph or redlined while being broken in?
I'm doing an ED and going from Welt straight to the autobahn!

[Wes Howell]

Originally Posted by 335iRlz

And FYI for launch control is not as easy as it looks sometimes i can get it to activate 10 times in a row and more than often when I have the space to actually try it I can't get it for the life of me..

It was fun the one time I did it lol tire tracks are still in the street from 4 months ago hahahaha ..

I can't get mine to work reliably at all... the flag came on once (when my foot wasn't on the brake) I'm not so sure my car is working right....

Anyone having great luck getting the non-smoky burnout launch mode to work?
Please share steps. turning off DSC completely and setting everything to aggressive / S3 and holding down the break and gas doesn't work for me.

[K20A2_S]

I'd like to see a poll of who followed Break in procedure and who doens't?

Seems like many ED people were hitting 150 MPH withing 20 miles of welt!!

[MGM4]

I'm wondering what constitutes "not following" break in procedure. If I redline it 5 times in the first 1200 miles I'm guessing no big deal...but how about 10 times ... or 20 times .... or 100 times. You get the point. Where is the line drawn? My dealer is insisting that they do a "preparation" drive before I take delivery, which I'm sure will cover the first 10 redlines (at least).

[jbraslins]

Originally Posted by Wes Howell

I can't get mine to work reliably at all... the flag came on once (when my foot wasn't on the brake) I'm not so sure my car is working right....

Anyone having great luck getting the non-smoky burnout launch mode to work?
Please share steps. turning off DSC completely and setting everything to aggressive / S3 and holding down the break and gas doesn't work for me.

Same problem here. I already had my 1200 mile service, but no matter what I do, I can't get launch control to activate. I tried it a few times here and there, but when I hold brake down, flag never comes up. If I try brake down and apply gas, I can feel the car struggling to overcome brakes. Car is warmed up and all.

Is it possible that dealer did not do the necessary software update at the service?

[Wes Howell]

Originally Posted by jbraslins

Same problem here. I already had my 1200 mile service, but no matter what I do, I can't get launch control to activate. I tried it a few times here and there, but when I hold brake down, flag never comes up. If I try brake down and apply gas, I can feel the car struggling to overcome brakes. Car is warmed up and all.

Is it possible that dealer did not do the necessary software update at the service?

Make sure traction control is completely off. Set everything to sport+.
Hold down brake and push the gas as quickly as you can.

Should work (I just wasn't stomping on the gas fast enough)

Wes

[NorCal f80]

Is the break in service included in the 4year service deal?

[BiMWM]

I am getting the car soon. I have been driving all my new cars very hard during the break in periods and replacing engine/transmission oil afterwards. None of them ever had engine or transmission issues in long term owning. Whereas, family member cars who have driven softly ended up with multiple engine/transmission issues.

Since this is an inline engine, I am not sure what to do, either do what I have been for past 15 years or follow the manufacture guidelines. The guidelines usually have always been to protect their end. They cannot recommend hard driving due laws and liability. First time BMW owner that I know. I have had an Audi and Mercedes. Audi driven hard as hell and no issues in the past 5 years. Mercedes driven softly and damn it has so many engine and transmission oil issues.

[Jockey]

Eh, I've gone WOT a couple times and gone over 5500 RPM (by accident, it just wants to go) a couple times too. I'm sure it'll be fine.

[JoeyBananas]

Does it matter if I drive the car in Sport or Sport + in the break in? I don't go WOT or above 5,500RPMS

[gatorfast]

Originally Posted by JoeyBananas

Does it matter if I drive the car in Sport or Sport + in the break in? I don't go WOT or above 5,500RPMS

No

[jelly6elly]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

New M4/M3 first oil service... 1,200 miles or 2K kms...
Attachment 1055734


Since a lot of you guys are starting to take delivery of your new M4/M3's... I thought I would put this PSA out for you.


Basically the first service is just like on the old cars. The only thing that is new is that now BMW says you MUST replace the oil pan plug/screw and diff screw/plug with new ones! The crush o-ring is now built into the screw.



F8x S55 engine...

Oil filter: 11 42 7 566 327

Screw for engine oil pan/plug: 11 11 7 849 396

Screw for diff: 33 11 7 525 064



Oil engine quantity (6,5l) of 6.9 quarts.


BMW LL4 engine oil:

83 21 0 398 504 (0w-40)

or

83 21 0 398 507 (5w-30)



Oil for diff/LSD (1l quantity): 83 22 9 405 462 (Castrol SAF-XJ ) API GL5, 75w140


NOTE: BMW says changing the transmission oil is not necessary. But if it were my car, and I was keeping the car for a long time - I know I would change it.

Dackel



original post...
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1007985

Just got back from 1200 mile service from local dealer.

The SA guy put in 0w-30 (and not 0w-40 nor 5w-30). Also, the oil filter number that they used and put down on the print-out doesn't match what you show. Should I be concerned? Also, SA was completely lost when I asked him if screws for both oil pan and diff were changed.

Mine's 2017 non ZCP M3. Any experience from you guys who recently got their 1200 mile service? I can take a picture of the service printout if that'll help.

Thanks guys. Appreciate any info.

S

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by jelly6elly

Just got back from 1200 mile service from local dealer.

The SA guy put in 0w-30 (and not 0w-40 nor 5w-30). Also, the oil filter number that they used and put down on the print-out doesn't match what you show. Should I be concerned? Also, SA was completely lost when I asked him if screws for both oil pan and diff were changed.

Mine's 2017 non ZCP M3. Any experience from you guys who recently got their 1200 mile service? I can take a picture of the service printout if that'll help.

Thanks guys. Appreciate any info.

S

The screws or transmission plugs - only needed to be replace on the first few months of F8x production(as posted in this FAQ, page one). BMW then changed the design so you can reuse the old hex plugs.

Oil and filter numbers are probably a generic dealer made up part number and not BMW's actual part number. I would think your dealer used the correct oil and filter. You could always check those numbers on RealOEM.com though.

Dack

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by jelly6elly

Just got back from 1200 mile service from local dealer.

The SA guy put in 0w-30 (and not 0w-40 nor 5w-30). Also, the oil filter number that they used and put down on the print-out doesn't match what you show. Should I be concerned? Also, SA was completely lost when I asked him if screws for both oil pan and diff were changed.

Mine's 2017 non ZCP M3. Any experience from you guys who recently got their 1200 mile service? I can take a picture of the service printout if that'll help.

BMW specs all three oil weights/viscocities for the M3/M4. There is a small black sticker with white lettering on the underside of your hood that has the exact recommendation for your car. The 0W-40 is the only BMW oil for the M3/M4 that actually says "M" on it, but the other two can also be used.

Early M3/M4s up until late 2015 (I don't recall the exact month) had a titanium oil pan and used aluminum drain plugs that required an allen wrench and were not reusable. After this date BMW switched to a steel oil pan and uses the same standard hex steel drain plug used on many models and does not require replacement at every oil change. The part number on the oil filter box changed because it used to include a new aluminum drain plug. The oil filter in the box with a different part number is exactly the same but doesn't include the aluminum drain plug. So you don't have to worry about this.

(Apparently Dackelone finished his post before I did...)

[jelly6elly]

Thank you very much SD ///M4 & Dackelone!!!