New Personal Best and F8X fastest time

[MaynardZed]

Be it known that I have set a new Personal Best and F8X fastest time (I think) for changing brake pads on an F8X:



20:29.93 MaynardZed M4, carbotechs back to OEM pads, same wheels

Tools used: Floor Jack (includes time to roll to/from car), Milwaukee M18 wrench, tap for pins, hammer, pliers

Shop conditions: 89 degrees F, slight breeze from fan

Damage: none to car (luckily), little hole in drywall from running around with floor jack :/

[ZAGA_M3]

thats fast
I will be swapping mine back to stock sometime this week, let me try coming close to that.

Thanks for the motivation

[C-Mu]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

Be it known that I have set a new Personal Best and F8X fastest time (I think) for changing brake pads on an F8X:

Attachment 1678972

20:29.93 MaynardZed M4, carbotechs back to OEM pads, same wheels

Tools used: Floor Jack (includes time to roll to/from car), Milwaukee M18 wrench, tap for pins, hammer, pliers

Shop conditions: 89 degrees F, slight breeze from fan

Damage: none to car (luckily), little hole in drywall from running around with floor jack :/

Well done! I'm about twice that long but that includes a couple of beer breaks and stopping to BS with the neighbors.

[MaX PL]

I did mine this past Sunday and I came in right around 30 minutes.

I jack each wheel one at a time. I think if I just lifted one side to do both wheels I could cut my time down significantly.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

I did mine this past Sunday and I came in right around 30 minutes.

I jack each wheel one at a time. I think if I just lifted one side to do both wheels I could cut my time down significantly.

It most definitely will. I use the front jack mounting point to lift one side of the car.

[MaynardZed]

Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3

thats fast
I will be swapping mine back to stock sometime this week, let me try coming close to that.

Thanks for the motivation

Show those brake pads NO Mercy!

[ZAGA_M3]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

Show those brake pads NO Mercy!

Just swapped from pagids to oem in 55 minutes.
took me the longest to put the pins back in with the clip.
any special trick for that?

[ZAGA_M3]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

Show those brake pads NO Mercy!

Just swapped from pagids to oem in 55 minutes.
took me the longest to put the pins back in with the clip.
any special trick for that?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3

Just swapped from pagids to oem in 55 minutes.
took me the longest to put the pins back in with the clip.
any special trick for that?

Simply align things up and tap them in with a hammer. I don't see how one could have struggled

[MaynardZed]

The front clips have to be in there while you put the top pin in, but the rear clips don't. After the top pin is in, line up the clip and make sure to compress in the bottom part of it while you put the bottom pin in. Really just need the hammer for the last 1/2" or so of putting the pin in.

Eat right, train hard, and get a good nights sleep and your times will improve.

[ZAGA_M3]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

The front clips have to be in there while you put the top pin in, but the rear clips don't. After the top pin is in, line up the clip and make sure to compress in the bottom part of it while you put the bottom pin in. Really just need the hammer for the last 1/2" or so of putting the pin in.

Eat right, train hard, and get a good nights sleep and your times will improve.

i did put the top pin first with clip, but bottom side while pushing the clip in for pin to go through; the pads were getting further in that made the pin miss the pad hole.
o well its all in now
next one will be quicker in a month ?

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3

i did put the top pin first with clip, but bottom side while pushing the clip in for pin to go through; the pads were getting further in that made the pin miss the pad hole.
o well its all in now
next one will be quicker in a month ?

You do have to wiggle that pin in a little for evrything to line up and slide in

[OhioRiderAaron]

I always seem have issues with the damn pins sliding in easily (fronts). It normally takes me two times to get the pins to fit on both top and bottom for some reason. Still not too bad though, pad changes can be quick on these cars!

[Powerslide]

So how many of you have had issues where there is too much brake fluid in the system to adequately push the pistons back in? I'm afraid to force the pistons back in with too much pressure for fear of the fluid overfilling.

I had new brake fluid out into my car in the spring at the dealership while my old pads (RS29) were installed. I assume the brake fluid was topped off with the worn down- thinner pads (17mm thick including backing plates, vs. 19mm thick stock pads with backing plates, or 22--23mm thick brand-new RS29's including backing plate). I basically made a "rookie mistake" by having brake fluid changed out with somewhat worn-down, thinner brake pads. When I later tried to out in brand-new Rs29's, I just could not push the pistons in far enough to slide the new pads in...

So - it appears that the only way to get new pads in is to first remove some amount of brake fluid. However - I'm concerned about exposing the fluid to ambient air (and contaminating it with moisture) and also introducing air intonhr brake lines while doing so.

It looks like one needs to take off the cover over the rear of the engine compartment on the drivers' side to access the master brake fluid receptacle - but here's my real questions:

1) what is best tool to remove some brake fluid - turkey baster or otherwise?

2) how much brake fluid to remove? Do you just remove enough for each wheel as you go? Is there a "minimum" level indocator in the receptacle?

3) can the removed brake fluid be re-used as long as kept in a sealed container (to protect from the fluid absorbing moisture in air)? Or alternatively - should one always add new fluid back in?

4) similar question to 3) above - if one is removing the cap for the brake fluid receptacle and either keeping it off or repeatedly opening and closing it during the pad-swap process - is that enough air exposure to brake fluid that you're keeping in the system to cause excessive exposure to moisture in the air?

5) does taking the cap off the receptacle and taking brake fluid out/putting it back in cause air to get into the brake lines (assuming one does not open any of the bleeder valves and no attempt to bleed the brakes occurs)?

[Powerslide]

BTW - OP - your time is pretty damn impressive!

[heckyeahbro69]

hmm i do like a good challenge...

[MaynardZed]

Originally Posted by Powerslide

So how many of you have had issues where there is too much brake fluid in the system to adequately push the pistons back in? I'm afraid to force the pistons back in with too much pressure for fear of the fluid overfilling.

I had new brake fluid out into my car in the spring at the dealership while my old pads (RS29) were installed. I assume the brake fluid was topped off with the worn down- thinner pads (17mm thick including backing plates, vs. 19mm thick stock pads with backing plates, or 22--23mm thick brand-new RS29's including backing plate). I basically made a "rookie mistake" by having brake fluid changed out with somewhat worn-down, thinner brake pads. When I later tried to out in brand-new Rs29's, I just could not push the pistons in far enough to slide the new pads in...

So - it appears that the only way to get new pads in is to first remove some amount of brake fluid. However - I'm concerned about exposing the fluid to ambient air (and contaminating it with moisture) and also introducing air intonhr brake lines while doing so....

Just remove the cap from the reservoir, the air won't hurt it. If brake fluid starts overflowing out the top while you push the pistons in, you had too much in there. Ive almost never had this happen to me, even switching from used up old pads to thick new ones.

On pushing the pistons into fit the new pads: The best way I've found is using the old pad to pry on the pistons. Use steady firm pressure and try to find the right angle. Remember on the fronts, you must press on both pistons simultaneously, otherwise the one will rise up as you press on the one next to it. Feel with your fingers, the pistons should be pressed in deeper than the rubber almost. The new pads should fit.


Unfortunately I'm having to do another pad switch on my M4 sooner than I hoped. Race weekend here at INDE and my race car's S52 replacement engine already died during practice today. That's 4 heads and 2 blocks I've gone through in the last few years. My garage is starting to look like an S52 graveyard.

At least jumping into DE with the M4 is not a bad consolation prize.

[C-Mu]

Originally Posted by ZAGA_M3

i did put the top pin first with clip, but bottom side while pushing the clip in for pin to go through; the pads were getting further in that made the pin miss the pad hole.
o well its all in now
next one will be quicker in a month ?

The pins can be a little tricky at first. I've found that the trick is to insert the top pin first for the front and bottom pin first for the rears. It'll become super easy after a few swaps.

[bracer]

Can I play or am I in another class since I have the Alcon BBK?

[MaynardZed]

Originally Posted by blackey

Can I play or am I in another class since I have the Alcon BBK?

You can play. Can't imagine BBK would be any easier.


BTW, the next time I changed my pads back to race pads, after the record pad change posted above, was at the track. I must've been distracted or something (people always coming over to talk to me, etc.) because I put one of the rear pads in backwards i.e. the backing plate against the rotor. I ran all day like this, including in the video I posted. Didn't think too much of the awful noise, because the carbotechs always make awful noises. My dad drove the M4 back to Phoenix and mentioned there seems to be something wrong. Well, he was right.

Needless to say the left rear rotor is totally F'd.

Be careful guys. Any record attempts done with errors will be disqualified.

[humpday]

Originally Posted by MaynardZed

You can play. Can't imagine BBK would be any easier.


BTW, the next time I changed my pads back to race pads, after the record pad change posted above, was at the track. I must've been distracted or something (people always coming over to talk to me, etc.) because I put one of the rear pads in backwards i.e. the backing plate against the rotor. I ran all day like this, including in the video I posted. Didn't think too much of the awful noise, because the carbotechs always make awful noises. My dad drove the M4 back to Phoenix and mentioned there seems to be something wrong. Well, he was right.

Needless to say the left rear rotor is totally F'd.

Be careful guys. Any record attempts done with errors will be disqualified.

OUCH.

I was motivated by your time, and in the process of trying to quickly spread out the pistons I accidentally chunked a 0.5 cm piece of one of my rear track pads. Should be inconsequential, but nonetheless...Don't be like me!