psu

[baobao]

I am interested in is PowerMax PMBC-75 (https://www.amazon.ca/PowerMax-PMBC-...-75+75+Amp+12V) a good psu for flashing? Have anyone tried this?
It is about US$200-300 which much cheaper than Schumacher.

Also I did some search about psu these days and would like to share the following information may help.
After I contacted with Schumacher, they said Schumacher INC-700A is an obsolete unit. The Schumacher INC-100A (they said INC-100A but I think should be INC-100, can't find any 100A model) is the new generation. That's why its hard to find any INC-700A in stock. INC-700A in Amzon.ca is about C$1300! But the new INC-100 is also expensive, more than US$1000 on their official website.
There is also an OTC 700A which is very similar to INC-700A IMO. It's about US$500 on some US websites which seems more affordable. But I can't find some similar price on the Canadian website.

[baobao]

Find their website http://powermaxconverters.com/product/pmbc-12-volt/ with spec sheet/manual on that website. Seems can be a choice?

[IK6SPEED]

Considering I couldn’t even find a Schumacher Company website, you did better than me.

You certainly do not want the 100A

https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/2070333/01806

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by baobao

Find their website http://powermaxconverters.com/product/pmbc-12-volt/ with spec sheet/manual on that website. Seems can be a choice?

Yes, that model will work. The key requirement is the adjustable voltage and PSU mode. For our LiFePO4 batteries and cars, you can set it to 13.6V for flashing or very long coding sessions.

If the 55A is cheaper, that should suffice for the F8x. In most of my flashing sessions, there was never a draw more than 26A and in most cases where I flash one ECU, it was 15A.

One drawback for that PSU is that it doesn't show current draw if that is important for you.

PS: note most 12V chargers are NOT PSUs...

[baobao]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Yes, that model will work. The key requirement is the adjustable voltage and PSU mode. For our LiFePO4 batteries and cars, you can set it to 13.6V for flashing or very long coding sessions.

If the 55A is cheaper, that should suffice for the F8x. In most of my flashing sessions, there was never a draw more than 26A and in most cases where I flash one ECU, it was 15A.

One drawback for that PSU is that it doesn't show current draw if that is important for you.

PS: note most 12V chargers are NOT PSUs...

The PSU arrived today but I find some problem when I use it. I set the voltage to 13.6V and use a multimeter to measure and find it can constantly maintain 13.6V. However, when I use a clamp meter to measure the amp, it is only ~1A when the vehicle switch is on. I tested the voltage of the battery is 13.39V at first, and after 10-15 mins switch on with the psu(just set the switch on and didn't do any coding/flashing), the voltage of the battery is about 13.31V. It seems the psu is not working, do you have any ideas about this?

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by baobao

The PSU arrived today but I find some problem when I use it. I set the voltage to 13.6V and use a multimeter to measure and find it can constantly maintain 13.6V. However, when I use a clamp meter to measure the amp, it is only ~1A when the vehicle switch is on. I tested the voltage of the battery is 13.39V at first, and after 10-15 mins switch on with the psu(just set the switch on and didn't do any coding/flashing), the voltage of the battery is about 13.31V. It seems the psu is not working, do you have any ideas about this?

The current draw when ignition ON should be greater than ~12 Amps. So if your clamp meter is working ok and it’s showing that the current being drawn is around 1A (ignition ON) AND the battery voltage keeps dropping (0.08 is negligible), then I guess that PSU is no good.

FYI, at 13.3V, the LifePO4 battery is almost at 100% capacity, to drawn any conclusion about your PSU, keep your ignition ON for 1 hour w PSU connected. Then disconnect, turn IGN off and check battery voltage.