Aftermarket Pads and Rotors for F80 M3

[joshe92]

I have the M carbon ceramic brakes.

Spend: 2,700 plus install
Need to change to a steel setup. Here is what I'd like to do:

Centric rotors

Stoptech street pads - premium

Stoptech street pads - ultra premium

What's the difference between premium and ultra? I assume the ultra is better?

Centric pads

[jaylazy2020]

I’ve been thinking of changing from oem steels to oem ccb.

Some say only needed if tracking but as I’m in Germany now I’d love the confidence of CCB

Are they a waste for street only?

[b_w.]

Most go from ccb to ccb calipers with steel rotors.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

I’ve been thinking of changing from oem steels to oem ccb.

Some say only needed if tracking but as I’m in Germany now I’d love the confidence of CCB

Are they a waste for street only?

I am using ccb for track and street, I will never change to steel

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Track/S

I am using ccb for track and street, I will never change to steel

Excellent. Ccbs are great for track and/or street.
If you need to refurbish your ccb rotors at some point, feel free to contact me with any question and check our web site at “rebrakeusa” .

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by joshe92

What's the difference between premium and ultra? I assume the ultra is better?

Yes, Ultra is better; they offer different levels of stopping power. Ultra is the best one.

[rhyary]

A note about chipped carbon ceramic rotor.
A chip may not big enough to effect braking. However, it is an issue in to other ways:

1. A chip can develop a sharp edges that contribute to accelerated brake pad wear, and those pads are not cheap. In addition, and related, you will get more dust.

2. The chip may expose the core disk to oxidation. The friction layer on BMW rotors is made from Silicon Carbide. That material does not oxidize. But the core disk stracture is made of Carbon Ceramic and carbon tend to oxidize.

Oxidation happens all the time because, luckily to us, there is O2 everwhere. But it is a slow process and over 10 years we see oxidation to core. Pic attached.

Oxidation will accelerate at 420 dec Celsius and we see those disks at Rebrake. If we see them early enough, we can save them.

Chips can be repaired. The surface look will not be the same, but functionally it is the same and will pass inspection in Germany (a chip will fail inspection). We don’t have this inspection issue in the US, as far as I know.

Attached are three pictures:
1. Chip
2. Oxidation of core (see pitted and small holes
3. Core rotor sealed and fixed

Feel free to visit our web site at rebrakeusa and contact me with any Carbon Ceramic questions. This is all we do.

Rami

[joshe92]

What is a good Steel brake kit and pads to replace Carbon Ceramic brakes?

[b_w.]

Originally Posted by joshe92

What is a good Steel brake kit and pads to replace Carbon Ceramic brakes?

Check out bimmerworld for Giro discs
https://www.bimmerworld.com/F8X-M3-M4-CCB-Front-Iron-Rotors-Girodisc.html

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by joshe92

What is a good Steel brake kit and pads to replace Carbon Ceramic brakes?

Paragonbrake discs and dsuno 1.11 pads.

[mikerunt]

Originally Posted by joshe92

What is a good Steel brake kit and pads to replace Carbon Ceramic brakes?

I’m selling a Girodisc steel setup with two sets of pads.

[joshe92]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

I’ve been thinking of changing from oem steels to oem ccb.

Some say only needed if tracking but as I’m in Germany now I’d love the confidence of CCB

Are they a waste for street only?

Do you want my ccb set?

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by joshe92

Do you want my ccb set?

I’m tempted. How many miles on them and how much?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

I’m tempted. How many miles on them and how much?

Shipping costs from Detroit, MI to Dublin, Ireland won’t be cheap and you’d definitely want ins coverage for the true replacement cost if one or more gets damaged.

CCBs are not the best option for the track. Read/watch BimmerWorld’s GTmore blog/video on the use of CCBs for track use. Cost of replacement vs. track rotor longevity has a long way to go to before matching the iron rotor replacement cost vs. track rotor longevity. Another issue with CCBs for track use is there’s fewer than a handful of CCB track/race pad compounds whereas the number of iron rotor track/race pad compounds are probably in the 100s to choose from.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

I’m tempted. How many miles on them and how much?

If you’re going to do the swap, the CCB/CCM rotors from Triton Motorsports are < $10k for four rotors + two sets of pads. They supposedly have better track longevity and can be serviced three times. They also offer iron rotors for the CCB calipers. Read thru the discussion in the link below:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2094064

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

If you’re going to do the swap, the CCB/CCM rotors from Triton Motorsports are < $10k for four rotors + two seats of pads. They supposedly have better track longevity and can be serviced three times. They also offer iron rotors for the CCB calipers. Read thru the discussion in the link below:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2094064

Cheers. Your advice is always spot on.

I’ll never be tracking my car. Just fast road driving.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

Cheers. Your advice is always spot on.

I’ll never be tracking my car. Just fast road driving.

Without tracking, the CCBs will probably last you until you hit 150k miles! One downside to CCBs is if you’re driving in rainy cold weather then the CCBs lose their initial bite and high braking capability. They’ll be great in the mountains and on miles of twisty roads.

Forget to mention, Triton also offers CCB/CCM brake for the blue iron brake setups - 380x30 and 370x24. Seems like they’d be a heat management problem because BMW determined they required 400 mm front rotors and 380 mm rear rotors as well as thicker front and rear rotors.

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Without tracking, the CCBs will probably last you until you hit 150k miles! One downside to CCBs is if you’re driving in rainy cold weather then the CCBs lose their initial bite and high braking capability. They’ll be great in the mountains and on miles of twisty roads.

Forget to mention, Triton also offers CCB/CCM brake for the blue iron brake setups - 380x30 and 370x24. Seems like they’d be a heat management problem because BMW determined they required 400 mm front rotors and 380 mm rear rotors as well as thicker front and rear rotors.

Cheers.

I’ve developed a small clunk from what I think is the right front over last 1000 miles.

My car was in with Bmw on the ramp for a gearbox oil change until they realised they hadn’t ordered the second filter

I asked to inspect the suspension and found nothing.

I’m running 763 original CS wheels. 19 inch front definitely give better ride quality but I can’t help but think that since I swapped standard 4 pot to 6 pot with 400mm steels(which are so heavy) it may have contributed to it.

So upgrading to CCB would ideal for me in terms of weight saving and no brake dust as the brake dust from the 2NH kit is the worst I’ve ever seen!

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

Cheers.

I’ve developed a small clunk from what I think is the right front over last 1000 miles.

My car was in with Bmw on the ramp for a gearbox oil change until they realised they hadn’t ordered the second filter

I asked to inspect the suspension and found nothing.

I’m running 763 original CS wheels. 19 inch front definitely give better ride quality but I can’t help but think that since I swapped standard 4 pot to 6 pot with 400mm steels(which are so heavy) it may have contributed to it.

So upgrading to CCB would ideal for me in terms of weight saving and no brake dust as the brake dust from the 2NH kit is the worst I’ve ever seen!

lol - the brake dust from ANY BMW is horrible but, yes, it’s horrible^3 on M models. My HRE R101LW wheels have a dark brushed clear finish and, before I switched to an Essex/AP Racing brake kit, they’d be covered in brake dust after a 20 min drive Out f22 m240ix and g20 330ix with M performance packages produce just as much brake dust as the f82 with stock brakes.

So you have a f87 M2C 2NH brake setup on your car? The iron rotors are massive on that kit and, sadly, they don’t work great on the track. They have the rotor OD, rotor thickness, pad radial depth and size, and the mass to absorb a huge amount of energy yet they’re a let down on track!

You’ll probably notice a small difference when cornering and braking. If I had a CCB brake kit, I’d probably take the chance and order a set of Triton Motorsport CCB/CCM rotors and pads. The stacking of pre-cured continuous fiber sheets to form a brake rotor does sound like it’ll be more resistant to damage and increase performance because their strength and stiffness are orthotropic (different strength and stiffness in different directions). Plus the ability to service them three times before needing to be replaced is appealing.

So what is this new noise you hear? Does it do it if you’re moving forward and reverse or just forward? Does it do it with hot and cold brakes or just cold or just hot? Have you changed anything else in the past 1k miles?

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

lol - the brake dust from ANY BMW is horrible but, yes, it’s horrible^3 on M models. My HRE R101LW wheels have a dark brushed clear finish and, before I switched to an Essex/AP Racing brake kit, they’d be covered in brake dust after a 20 min drive Out f22 m240ix and g20 330ix with M performance packages produce just as much brake dust as the f82 with stock brakes.

So you have a f87 M2C 2NH brake setup on your car? The iron rotors are massive on that kit and, sadly, they don’t work great on the track. They have the rotor OD, rotor thickness, pad radial depth and size, and the mass to absorb a huge amount of energy yet they’re a let down on track!

You’ll probably notice a small difference when cornering and braking. If I had a CCB brake kit, I’d probably take the chance and order a set of Triton Motorsport CCB/CCM rotors and pads. The stacking of pre-cured continuous fiber sheets to form a brake rotor does sound like it’ll be more resistant to damage and increase performance because their strength and stiffness are orthotropic (different strength and stiffness in different directions). Plus the ability to service them three times before needing to be replaced is appealing.

So what is this new noise you hear? Does it do it if you’re moving forward and reverse or just forward? Does it do it with hot and cold brakes or just cold or just hot? Have you changed anything else in the past 1k miles?

It’s just a small clunking sound when going over bumps.

I’d love to know how to inspect it properly when jacking up the wheel and then checking the wheel bearing for play.

On Irish and Uk roads the left front wheel bearing always goes first as the majority of pot holes are beside the ditches and grass at the edge of our terrible roads

My only thought that it may be connected to the brakes is that yeah are so heavy

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by jaylazy2020

It’s just a small clunking sound when going over bumps.

I’d love to know how to inspect it properly when jacking up the wheel and then checking the wheel bearing for play.

On Irish and Uk roads the left front wheel bearing always goes first as the majority of pot holes are beside the ditches and grass at the edge of our terrible roads

My only thought that it may be connected to the brakes is that yeah are so heavy

If it only happens over bumps then it could be the front strut upper mount. There’s a bearing that can go bad with mileage or due to a severe impact. You could start by having someone listen to the mounts at the center of the strut towers with the hood open to see if they hear any noise while you turn the steering wheel. It’s not easy to simulate the impact because the unsprung mass is ~100 lbm give or take so it’s hard to shake the assembly up and down. Does it make the noise when you apply and/or release the brakes?

[jaylazy2020]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

If it only happens over bumps then it could be the front strut upper mount. There’s a bearing that can go bad with mileage or due to a severe impact. You could start by having someone listen to the mounts at the center of the strut towers with the hood open to see if they hear any noise while you turn the steering wheel. It’s not easy to simulate the impact because the unsprung mass is ~100 lbm give or take so it’s hard to shake the assembly up and down. Does it make the noise when you apply and/or release the brakes?

Nothing on the brakes.
Only when I go over a footpath break in the road when going in to under ground car park for example. It’s at low speed but it definitely wasn’t there before.