jrz rs2 coilovers are bouncy

[zsm494116024]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

I have zero bouncing on RS2, I was a KW fan boy then decided to try JRZ RS2 and these don't disappoint. I'm happy with ride quality on Eibach springs 600f/800r track not touring.

Hey is this spring rate your track only setup? How is that feel?

[zsm494116024]

Originally Posted by x.shell

I have both the RS2 and RS Pro 3-way.

I was one of the first people to purchase the FallLine JRZ RS2 Kit from IND. Since then, I upgraded to the RS Pro 3-Way. About 6 months ago, I went back to the RS2 and have been on it since. My ride quality is really really nice. I am pretty much 100% street driving only.

I have tried so many different spring configurations and have settled on Eibach ERS 500 lb/in front with 1000 lb/in rear.

I found that you need to have the rear spring a little more than double the stiffness of the front spring to keep the chassis oscillating close to flat. 1000 lb/in is pretty much the stiffest you can go in the rear without using a helper. I would run a 400 or 450 on the front, but I find that it's too soft for my aggressive GT4 splitter.

While it's true that the RS Pro has better damping, I was really surprised when I went back to the RS2. So much so that I was thinking about selling the RS Pro 3-Way. Keep in mind that my RS2 have been on my car since 2016 (minus the one year I was on the RS Pro).

In my suspension journey for the F-Chassis (staring in 2012 with the F30), this is the best set up I've had for my needs. It's comfortable, flat, and doesn't bottom out.

Hey do you have a track spring rate setup?

[Wanted_M]

Originally Posted by zsm494116024

Hey is this spring rate your track only setup? How is that feel?

It's set up for both, not overly stiff for the street and good enough for track days. As I get better in the future, I may opt for different spring rates during a rebuilt. We shall see.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by zsm494116024

Hey is this spring rate your track only setup? How is that feel?

What are you looking to do - track only or street-track use? If it’s street-track use, is it more track use or more street use? What dampers are you using? Any other suspension mods? Stock or aftermarket anti-sway bars?

[zsm494116024]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

What are you looking to do - track only or street-track use? If it’s street-track use, is it more track use or more street use? What dampers are you using? Any other suspension mods? Stock or aftermarket anti-sway bars?

I only got rear traction arms and new set of JRZ RS Pro3 and track only! Do you have a recommended spring rates?

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by zsm494116024

I only got rear traction arms and new set of JRZ RS Pro3 and track only! Do you have a recommended spring rates?

Do you drive the car on the street to/from track days?

Did you buy the Pro3 new or used? I’m asking because dampers are setup to work best around a certain spring rate but they can typically handle a +/- ~30% of the nominal spring rate. You can usually push the % a little bit more but then you might be left with a small working window of the dampers (# of clicks of adjustment goes down considerably and you’re working at the ends of damping adjustments).

Do the dampers have dry quick-disconnect (qd) fittings on the hoses between the remote reservoirs and the dampers? These are required for the front but are optional for the rear.

[zsm494116024]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Do you drive the car on the street to/from track days?

Did you buy the Pro3 new or used? I’m asking because dampers are setup to work best around a certain spring rate but they can typically handle a +/- ~30% of the nominal spring rate. You can usually push the % a little bit more but then you might be left with a small working window of the dampers (# of clicks of adjustment goes down considerably and you’re working at the ends of damping adjustments).

Do the dampers have dry quick-disconnect (qd) fittings on the hoses between the remote reservoirs and the dampers? These are required for the front but are optional for the rear.

New PRO3 and correct drive on street to track days since no trailer...

I think the both front and rear have the quick release.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by zsm494116024

New PRO3 and correct drive on street to track days since no trailer...

I think the both front and rear have the quick release.

What size tires? Wheel diameter and widths-offsets? This is important because certain tire widths and wheel width-offset are problematic with dampers/springs.

What spring diameter(s) are the front strut lower spring seats and rear height adjuster - 2.25” or 2.50” or 60 mm?

What is your skill level (beginner, intermediate or advanced)?

[zsm494116024]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

What size tires? Wheel diameter and widths-offsets? This is important because certain tire widths and wheel width-offset are problematic with dampers/springs.

What spring diameter(s) are the front strut lower spring seats and rear height adjuster - 2.25” or 2.50” or 60 mm?

What is your skill level (beginner, intermediate or advanced)?

Tire: 295/35/18

Wheel 18*10.5/11
ET 22/44

I haven’t got the spring for the Coilover yet since I’m now confirming spring rate I will go.

I would say intermediate!

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by zsm494116024

Hey do you have a track spring rate setup?

I don’t track my F80. When putting my suspension together, my intention was to have my F80 as double duty. But my priorities in life has shifted and I haven’t done car stuff in the past several years.

That being said, I believe I can give my two cents on spring rates. Keep in mind that tires and aero will have a huge role in how well your spring rates will perform on track. On the street, it won’t really matter as the JRZ RS2 and Pro3 can handle quite a large range of spring rates. I’ve tried everything from 250 to 650 for the front (and everything in between). For the rears, 700 to 1000 (my current rear spring rate).

I think after you figure out your tire and aero set up, the rear spring rate should be determined first. If you’re sticking with the divorced set up (like me) you can only go so stiff before you have to deal with helper springs and a reasonable ride height. I found that 1000 at 8inches worked for me. But then again, I do have full SPL adjustable arm suite in the rear — and my rear geometry has been adjusted to bring the rear wheels inboard 10mm or so.

Once I determined that 1000 worked well for the rear, I swapped out the fronts from 350, 400, 450, 500, 600, and 650. I found that the 400 to 650 all worked well with the 1000 rear on the street. 450 probably had the best flat ride with no bouncing. But since I have a GT4 front splitter, I wanted a little more stiffness on the front — so I settled on 500 for daily street driving.

I don’t know if any of this helps, but I hope you gleaned something usefull.

TL/DR - figure out kinematic first, then tires/aero, rear spring rate, lastly front spring rate.