Front End Clunk

[mbb2000]

So I've just about reached my limit with this car. I've had the car since new and have owned it for almost 5 years already. I have a 2018 F80 ZCP with around 67k miles. The suspension is modified with just Ohlin RT which in my opinion may be the problem. The car developed an incredibly annoying front-end cluck when turning at low speeds. I thought it was the strut mount bearings so I replaced them and as always that wasn't the solution. I have checked everything to see if anything is loose but it's all perfect. the car still drives perfectly as well. At low speeds when setting off there is a popping feeling coming from the steering but goes away. any idea what this may be? I know this has been discussed but it doesnt make sense to me.

[WhiteFox]

Might be your suspension swap back to OEM and test it as most likely to be this.

[M3SQRD]

How many miles do you have on your Ohlins R&T? I’m asking because they need to be rebuilt every 25k miles, if you listen to Ohlins’ recommendation (practically speaking it’s more like 30-60k miles depending on how they’re used). Dampers do not need to be leaking to have failed. Does it make the noise with the steering wheel fixed; i.e., not turning? On a smooth surface? Do you hear the noise going over bumps or while in a corner? If you’re not turning the steering wheel and it’s on a smooth surface then it might not be the R&Ts. Dampers typically need movement of some kind (e.g., turning the strut, vertical motion of the strut/piston rod, etc.) to make noise. Have you checked the wheel bearings? Any signs of grease splatter (thin radial lines) on the back of the hub or other suspension parts around the hub?

[mbb2000]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

How many miles do you have on your Ohlins R&T? I’m asking because they need to be rebuilt every 25k miles, if you listen to Ohlins’ recommendation (practically speaking it’s more like 30-60k miles depending on how they’re used). Dampers do not need to be leaking to have failed. Does it make the noise with the steering wheel fixed; i.e., not turning? On a smooth surface? Do you hear the noise going over bumps or while in a corner? If you’re not turning the steering wheel and it’s on a smooth surface then it might not be the R&Ts. Dampers typically need movement of some kind (e.g., turning the strut, vertical motion of the strut/piston rod, etc.) to make noise. Have you checked the wheel bearings? Any signs of grease splatter (thin radial lines) on the back of the hub or other suspension parts around the hub?

The Ohlins maybe have about 5k miles and have done it since new. wheel bearings are still good, I have another set just in case. The noise happens when turning up until about 20 MPH but is fine when straight.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by mbb2000

The Ohlins maybe have about 5k miles and have done it since new. wheel bearings are still good, I have another set just in case. The noise happens when turning up until about 20 MPH but is fine when straight.

So the noise started immediately after installing the R&Ts? If that’s the case, then they are likely the cause. I’d contact the vendor you purchased them from and ask to have them checked/replaced under warranty. IIRC, when the F87 version, which is now the version used on all F8x, was first released they were noisy and Ohlins ended up replacing an internal bushing to eliminate the noise. They replaced the new bushing with an older bushing design and the noise went away. I don’t recall what caused the noise to occur. Perhaps your set has the newer bushing dedign?

[Pewtinn]

[mapster37]

When u installed did u tighten the components loaded or unloaded?

[NSX2M4]

Is a race car with Ohlins now. Expect a compromise somewhere.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Worn out drop links or end links can cause clunks.

[RugbyBro]

Check your endlinks if you have solid bearings - they are a wear item.

[hC1001]

I also recommend checking the endlinks. Tighten them on the strut and swaybar for each side.

[MemeLordCS]

Check your camber plates, and if they are Ground Control expect to retorque it or replace the bearing on the side that is knocking.