My single turbo gt more f80 build

[WhiskerBuilt]

Nice build! What ET are you wheels?

[b_w.]

Originally Posted by MrSharkey

Nice build! What ET are you wheels?

New ones are 36. Will run a 40mm spacer up front.

[b_w.]

Some progress and a setback.

I had no reason to tighten down the engine mounts because it will be lifted again when I install the turbo. When I was looking at ista for the engine mounts they list a bunch of m12 and m10 bolt sizes for torque. I quickly looked and saw f80 m12 and 100 NM and cranked the driver side down. Moved over to the passenger side and broke the stud off.


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Double checked things and realized the are m10 bolts and the proper torque is 56 NM and i had almost tightened them by double.. Didn't break the driver side but will now be ordering new motor mounts for each side. Luckily they are accessible now and not that expensive.

Next I moved to putting the new pulleys, tensioner, belts, crank seal gaurd and crank bolt capture.

First up was the vargas seal gaurd. I had originally ordered on from kies but they had no eta. Bimmerworld runs vargas on the gt more so if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me.

I had been. Running the vargas cbc previously and the only reason I am switching to kies is the ability to rotate the motor without pulling the bolt capture. I do also like the one piece washer. Interestingly I know vargas takes some heat on their hardware but check out the bolts both kies and vargas uses. Kies is stainless but both are stamped the same. Used hybrid strength locktite on all bolts.





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Next moved onto the precision stage 3 brushless pump and the bimmerworld fuel starvation kit.

Have to dremel a ridge off the underside and drill a hole in the hat to get the wire pass through installed .

The precision pumps drops right in. Will finish wiring the starvation pump later.i ordered a new o ring but realized once I had the starvation pump in I couldn't get the new one in. Hopefully it doesn't leak. I also ordered a lock ring tool from Amazon which made the removal and install easy.









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Thinking while it's apart will upgrade the cooling. My oil cooler is pretty beat up, mostly on the top side, so looking atbthe complete cooling kit from do88. Don't hear a lot about them on the f8x but have a good rep on the e90. The heat exchangers are substantially larger than stock so will give a good increase in fluid volume between the front mount and the lower passenger cooler. I was lthinjing of the pwr oil cooler but will probably just go again with do88 and a mosselan thermostat. Tough to spend so much on a single radiator.

Also going to add the rear spl treatment. The entire front is done so might as well.finish off the rear.

[M3SQRD]

Nicely put together build. You’ll love the new 2WR eye-eye w/ R coilover setup which is a significant step up over the 2WNR setup.

What spring rates are you running?

[Bimmer.Plug]

Amazing build. We also specialize in modifications. You can look into our collection here.

[b_w.]

Do88 side mount heat exchanger and oil cooler

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Front mount heat exchanger

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Finished installing the fuel starvation pump.

Finally received the rear clevis coilover mounts so finally have those installed.

Also installed the oil overfill kit that allows close to a quart over fill.

[b_w.]

Took a few weeks of vacation so its been a while since I have done any work on the car.

Started working on the rear control arms and immediately ran into trouble removing the upper arms. Stripped all the counter holds and had to cut the nuts off with a dremel. I had hit them all with penetrating oil and heat, and even a week's worth on the driver side, and all I could get was half off then they all stripped.

Once the knuckle side was off the top arm subframe side bolt has interference with the sway bar so I also cut that off and picked up new bolts thinking I could insert the bolt from the other direction as per spl's instructions. Maybe oem sways can be rotated out of the way but not enough clearance with the gt more bars.

To my surprise there is not enough clearance to insert the bolt from the rear so I had to drop the sway bar a bit anyways to get them in. Probably had to drop it down a cm to have enough room for the bolt.

Only thing left to do o the rear is a solid bushing at the subframe for the camber arm. Will either do the bimmerworld joint with the offset bearing or the spl one.All other rubber joints have been replaced with heims.

While I was under the car I noticed that the diff cooling fins had made some contact with the road. Given that all the other joints are solid.i am thinking I might swap my turner dual diff plate amd power flex bushings for a kmp dual bracket and solid bushings. Waiting on confirmation but it looks like the kmo lifts the diff about 10mm. I am mot super low but Might be enough to keep the diff fins away from trouble.

Also picked up a mosselman oil thermostat and got that installed. I had stuffed tons.of.paper towel in but a bunch still managed to drip down the front of the motor. Took more time to clean that up than the install itself which is simple.

Tomorrow will tackle the mishimoto low temp coolant thermostat.

Sounds like the final components are into 4n from borg so my turbo kit will hopefully ship this week.

[b_w.]

Have just been working on the heat exchangers, getting the rad and fan back in. Here is a comparison of the do88 front heat exchanger next to the factory one. You can see how much bigger it is



Also cleaned out the rad. I washed it out in the shower, after properly draining it of course, and was amazed how much debris came out. The car is parked inside and only sees clean streets with me but it was filthy. Took me over 2 hours rinsing it out and after letting it dry another pile of shit came out. Car has about 40000 miles. Should help with cooling after removing everything. Will also give the lower driver side the same treatment.

Turbo is finally in hand at 4n from borg warner. Mike just needed to weldnthe charge pipe on the outlet and it should ship Tuesday. Hopefully it is here for next weekend!

[b_w.]

Do88 coolers installed









You can see how much grime is coming out of the driver side lower engine cooler...

[b_w.]

Been slowly chipping away at things. Worked on routing coilover reservoirs and fitting up the water meth stealth tank. The snow 2.5 kit comes with about 10 feet of braided line so it's just about perfect. Ran it out the passenger side along the remote res line, snaked along the subframe then parallel to the fuel lines to the front. Need to find a place to mount the solenoid then it will be a short line to the j pipe. Worked on pulling the center console out. Think I will mount the controller where the 12v plug is.

Today worked on pulling the turner dual diff mount and powerless bushings and replaced it with a kmp offset kit. These are aluminum mounts so the diff should be solid. Turner kit is going to another forum member.

The kmp is neat because it lifts the diff by about 10mm. It uses offset bushings in the front and the rear bracket is essentially shorter than a standard on. This was more of a pain to install because you need to make sure the offset bushings go in level with the front bracket. I slaved away a good chuck of the day today and got it done

First box of turbo parts showed today which has the exhaust. It's a long weekend here so the other box with the manifold and turbo won't arrive until Tuesday.

[M_Torx]

Do 88 coolers Vs CSF what's better ???

[b_w.]

Originally Posted by M_Torx

Do 88 coolers Vs CSF what's better ???

I honestly dont know which is better if we are just talking heat exchangers. I wanted the larger lower rad with carbon shroud so went D088. Quality and fitment was great plus very fast shipping from Sweeden. Came faster than most domestic orders.

[M_Torx]

did some more research seems Do88 is the better brand CSF couldn't find any proof charts of IAT just this
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1610035


but like the rock guard CSF has for the main rad not sure if it's really needed 🤔
will be going with Do88

[b_w.]

Originally Posted by M_Torx

did some more research seems Do88 is the better brand CSF couldn't find any proof charts of IAT just this
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1610035


but like the rock guard CSF has for the main rad not sure if it's really needed 🤔
will be going with Do88

I think that is a safe choice. I am going to look at adding some black mesh behind the grills to protect it a bit more. the rads I removed were beat up but I never had any cooling issues so I am not sure how much it actually matters. A puncture is one thing but I dont know how much CSF's screen will prevent that.

on my oil cooler the bottom was actually in great shape, it was the top that didnt look top notch.

[b_w.]

Rear spring arm offset bearings from bimmerworld installed. These help correct the rear geometry from the car being lowered. Was a pain to get these plum with the subframe. Did them in and out over and over again and finally was easier after putting them in the freezer.

These need to be welded in so dusted off the multi process machine and mig'd them in. Only needs about an inch welded on each side and it was awkward laying on my side under the car. Not pretty but got them done. Prepped with the wire wheel and acetone.

Will have to do some Tig work on the exhaust to add hangers to the 4n stuff and get it connected to the muffler. Will see if I can make the connecting pipes from my single mid work to minimize the amount of work.

[M_Torx]

does lowering it really mess up the geometry that bad? post a link

[b_w.]

Originally Posted by M_Torx

does lowering it really mess up the geometry that bad? post a link

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...aring-Kit.html

I have replaced every other joint with a heim or solid bearing so this was the last one. BW recommended this over the SPL or non offset ones with my gtmore package. the outer joint is already a sealed bearing and you can already see how much more maneuverability the arm has with this bearing installed.

As I look at the pics the subframe, it is covered in surface rust and looks gross. I was going to paint the welded areas but opted to clean a bit more with the wire wheel and rub down a larger area with some wool wax. should absorb into the metal and prevent it from rusting further.

[b_w.]

Turbo parts arrived. Still waiting on the motor mount but should be able to get after this soon.

[mwalter14]

Nice build. Good to see this F80 in some capable hands.

[b_w.]

A few more pics of what I have been working on. Water meth controller is installed and all plumbing is complete. Ended up getting the Do88 j pipe with dual bungs. Running a #6 nozzle on one side and the boost sensor on the other. The Do88 stuff has turned out to be really nice. It is cast and very solid. I was originally going to use a Evolution Raceworks J pipe but with only one port decided to ditch it.

Turbo is in with all water and oil lines in. Charge pipes are wrapped and in.

Currently working on routing the 4 inch front mount intake. This thing is huge and tough to work into place. You can see everything on this kit is super tight tolerance with almost no room to spare. To fit the intake have to grind down some of the pinch welds to make room for the pipes. Will grind them down a a bit more then reweld and touch up with some seam sealer.

was hoping to have the first start this past weekend but spent too much time chasing error codes. Ended up being one connector on the DME wasnt pushed in the entire way.

Will probably reclock the wastegate as well so the connection is on the bottom. Even with the 2000 degree heat wrap I would have more clearance for the intake with it clocked another 90 degrees. I already set the wastegate adjustments in ISTA. With this kit it is super easy to reach with the downpipe out.

Also coded EU5 injectors via ISTA.

More fitting of the intake needed and then first start coming soon.

Tuning by Chirs at Motiv Motorsports is loaded and ready to start.

















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