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      06-21-2018, 02:07 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
I can attest to this. I have the Ohlin R/T and originally had the 1306lb rear spring.

It is too much for the street. Not because of the firmness, but because the spring is so strong and rebounds so fast over big bumps that the shocks have to stop that motion very quickly.

On big bumps the end stroke on the rebound side was so intense that it would lift you out of your seat and set the traction control system off. There was also small secondary spring motions after that rebound stop.

I changed to the 900lb M2 spring and it is worlds better. It can still be pretty abrupt, but not nearly as so as before and there is no more secondary motions after the rebound stroke is complete.

I also had the front spring tension reduced as much as possible without it being loose on full extension and that helped the front as well.

I'm still thinking about going about 100lbs lighter front and rear for an even better experience.
If you had room to adjust your rebound to tight""" it would ve been better ~

That secondary motion you feel on your rebound stroke is an indication that rebound is not properly set.
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      06-21-2018, 02:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by M4 CSL View Post
My KW Clubsports are the 3-Way adjustable. Which means you can adjust Hi speed and low speed.


Comparing the various systems, you simply start at the full option (3-way), and then look at the compromises you need to make coming down to 2-way or 1-way units. Compromises because of one important fact: there is never a perfect rebound or compression value, but there is a perfect rebound/compression ratio. This means if one adjustment is locked, you have to find a compromise to match this one with the other adjustments. In terms of lap times, the worst case is you will not be faster, but you will achieve the same lap time in a more relaxed manner.
KW CS 3 way only has one Rebound unlike compression where Low and High speed is set. The perfect solution is going with the full 4 Way adjustable.
Low and High for both Compression and Rebound. I would go with INTRAX or KW Competition.
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      06-21-2018, 03:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
I can attest to this. I have the Ohlin R/T and originally had the 1306lb rear spring.

It is too much for the street. Not because of the firmness, but because the spring is so strong and rebounds so fast over big bumps that the shocks have to stop that motion very quickly.

On big bumps the end stroke on the rebound side was so intense that it would lift you out of your seat and set the traction control system off. There was also small secondary spring motions after that rebound stop.

I changed to the 900lb M2 spring and it is worlds better. It can still be pretty abrupt, but not nearly as so as before and there is no more secondary motions after the rebound stroke is complete.

I also had the front spring tension reduced as much as possible without it being loose on full extension and that helped the front as well.

I'm still thinking about going about 100lbs lighter front and rear for an even better experience.
If you had room to adjust your rebound to tight""" it would ve been better ~

That secondary motion you feel on your rebound stroke is an indication that rebound is not properly set.
It's not double adjustable. The Ohlin R/T are single adjustable only.

Regardless, it doesn't matter to me now. My lease is up in 5 mths and getting a ZL1 1LE
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      02-26-2019, 09:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Finally they are here. Fitting Tomorrow.

Dinan Bars in.

180 N/mm Rear Which is about 1,028 Ft/lbs

110 N/mm Front Which is about 628 Ft/Lbs.
Ok, For the two people in the future that will read this, Pay attention to the second number on the springs.

The 110 is N/mm (628ft/lbs) but its the 140 I am now referring to.

I was very specific that I did not want my car too low. So those that complain they can't get enough low, These are the springs for you.

At full maximum height, there is no gap to the tyre. I wanted a finger gap on the tyre. But there basically is none. The tyre is not tucked up, but I could easily go much lower and do that, but I hate that.

I either put up with being that low, or I wait more weeks, for a 170. That will give me at least 15mm higher ride height.

I have waited a month to get this, I'm tired of waiting. The moment my GTS gets here I will have zero interest in this car. So I want it back now.

The 140's would suit anyone who loves low.
hi OP, so with the optional KW harder springs, only the front had no gap in height between the top of the tire and the fender (harder springs in 140 rather than 160 for standard springs) while the rear was too high (harder springs in 200 rather than ? for standard springs)?

how high was the rear? in OEM ZCP there is already less than 1cm of height gap between the top of the rear tire and the fender.

thx
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      03-03-2019, 04:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4 CSL View Post
I read this morning that

Comp Pack Spring rate is 198 ft/lbs and M4 GTS is 400 ft/lbs.

I have chosen 640 ft/lbs upfront. (GTS was double, I went triple)


Comp Pack has 575 ft/lbs in Rear, M4 Gts 600 ft /lbs

I have chosen 1040 ft/lbs. (About double)

So triple the front and double the rear. That should be noticeable.
Just curious ~ how much did the suspension characteristic changed given the same damping / rebound setting.
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