2016 M4 ZCP vs. 2015 M4 non-ZCP (from a guy who's owned both)

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

Originally Posted by Dave 90TT

Sure, whatever. If you think so. Go drive your Ferrari (with the 12" wheel gap) and I will drive my Pinto.

Seems to me that you're the one exaggerating.

[Vocans]

Originally Posted by Dave 90TT

Again, the ZCP is undoubtedly better than the non-ZCP, but its not a Ferrari to Ford Pinto comparison, as the OP makes it out to be.

I don't think the OP said or even implied either that literal comparison or a metaphorical one of that magnitude. It sounds like you're trying to strawman him by implying that his post was one long string of endless hyperbole when the only examples you cited (the one about the ZCP looking like a 4x4 and the Kia Rio interior noise) were clearly in jest.

Being so obviously hyperbolic with two remote comments doesn't imply that he was exaggerating the remainder of his review and his overall impressions were in line with all of the professional reviews we've read thus far. If you're choosing to take his review with a grain of salt then that's your prerogative but I don't see what you expect to gain from attempting to call out the OP in his post other than to discourage other owners from taking the time to provide reviews of their car.

[Der]

Originally Posted by dmk08

Didnt they also phantom upgrade the rear shocks on 16s at some point?

Possibly. The topic on m3cutters is very informative

[Barathon]

So I also am switching from a 15 non-ZCP to a 16 ZCP with a few more options, individual color ect. I think I did very well for my trade in but I see folks blasting everyone who has swapped from a 15 or 16 to a new one with ZCP.

My question is this, what do you think is a great, good, bad and terrible depreciation for a 1 year old M3?

For me I think it would be somewhere in this range;
Exceptional (and unheard of): < $1K less than purchase price
Great: $2K-$4K less than purchase price
Good: $4K-$7K less than purchase price
Average: $7K-$8K less than purchase price
Bad: $9K-$11K less than purchase price
Terrible: > $11K less than purchase price

In other words, if you paid $80K one year ago and got $73K as a trade-in for it I would consider that good. I am not taking into account the purchase price of the new one so no dealer tricks to make numbers seam better, assume the new car price is fixed and cannot be altered, so this is strictly trade-in.

That is just my personal opinion I could be way off or crazy.

[Who's on first]

Originally Posted by Barathon

So I also am switching from a 15 non-ZCP to a 16 ZCP with a few more options, individual color ect. I think I did very well for my trade in but I see folks blasting everyone who has swapped from a 15 or 16 to a new one with ZCP.

My question is this, what do you think is a great, good, bad and terrible depreciation for a 1 year old M3?

For me I think it would be somewhere in this range;
Exceptional (and unheard of): < $1K less than purchase price
Great: $2K-$4K less than purchase price
Good: $4K-$7K less than purchase price
Average: $7K-$8K less than purchase price
Bad: $9K-$11K less than purchase price
Terrible: > $11K less than purchase price

In other words, if you paid $80K one year ago and got $73K as a trade-in for it I would consider that good. I am not taking into account the purchase price of the new one so no dealer tricks to make numbers seam better, assume the new car price is fixed and cannot be altered, so this is strictly trade-in.

That is just my personal opinion I could be way off or crazy.

Here were my deals.
15' MSRP $77,8xx
Paid $70,450
Drove it for just under 10 months
16,967 miles
Trade Value $62,000

So....$8,450 difference... And there were 9 payments made. In my book that's basically dead even.

16' MSRP $86,745
Paid $75,500
(With ED)

People that demand you're losing a shit ton of money, some of them just don't get it.

How can you NOT take that deal?

[dmk08]

Originally Posted by Who's on first

Here were my deals.
15' MSRP $77,8xx
Paid $70,450
Drove it for just under 10 months
16,967 miles
Trade Value $62,000

So....$8,450 difference... And there were 9 payments made. In my book that's basically dead even.

16' MSRP $86,745
Paid $75,500
(With ED)

People that demand you're losing a shit ton of money, some of them just don't get it.

How can you NOT take that deal?

Not to mention if the person switching was lucky enough to lock in the .9 rate they had going. That from a 2% rate on a 15 could be huge savings over the term.

[Who's on first]

Originally Posted by dmk08

Not to mention if the person switching was lucky enough to lock in the .9 rate they had going. That from a 2% rate on a 15 could be huge savings over the term.

Good point.

I had 2.92% on the 15.

The 16'.... .9%.

EDIT... 1.9% on the 15'.

[dmk08]

Originally Posted by Who's on first

Good point.

I had 2.92% on the 15.

The 16'.... .9%.

EDIT... 1.9% on the 15'.

So assuming a 65k loan you pay $3500 in interest over term @ 1.9 and $1500 over term @ .9. So there is probably at least 1k+ savings there from financing fees assuming you were already almost 2 years into the term on the 15.

Also in my state I only have to pay taxes on the difference from my trade to my new car. As my new M4 is cheaper than my original M3 MSRP wise Ill owe very little in taxes.

[Barathon]

I agree with you I think thats a great deal, since I bought my current one as part of military sales I got a great deal to start, I paid $69K out the door no taxes ect, if I remember correctly MSRP would have been around $76K.

When my new car arrives at the end of June I will have had it for within a week or two of 1 year, I currently have 7.5K miles on it. When the trade happens I will get $62K for the car which is a few grand more than I owe.

The new car I am getting MSRPs for $81.9K and I am paying $76.4K, once again no taxes. I do not see how that is a bad deal.

Edit: My MSRP numbers are based off of the bmw configurator.

[DavidGP]

The interior of the 2016 has better fit and finish and the 2016 changes, while not drastically different, are nice as compared to the 2015 interior. This car has ZERO rattles or creaks, which is the opposite of my 2015, which had all kinds of rattles, especially in the rear deck. The car feels much more solid in that respect.

I believe the 2016 cars as a whole (CP and Non-CP) benefited from some upgrade to the interior as far as rattles and fit and finish. My 2016 feels great and does not have any rattles currently. Exterior fit and finish are superb and sounds amazing with DP with lots of pops and burbles.

[M.a.r.k.u.s]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

It's a long process and is better you don't attempt it unless you know what you're doing. It's not rocket science, but it is a little complicated.

I wrote a post about this a long time ago on this forum, I'll see if I can track it down.

Basically, you want to seat the rings against the cylinder wall and have the rings conform to the wall of the cylinder (cylinder lining wearing into the rings) as opposed to the rings wearing into the cylinder lining. If you put too much heat on them, the cylinder wall will glaze, not enough heat and the rings won't properly seat. The most critical part is the first 50 miles or so.

I have broken-in countless engines on the dyno and street and my procedure has always produced engines that had less blow-by, therefore producing more power and consuming far less oil.

I'll update this post when I find the link. I don't have time to retype the whole procedure.

Very interested in this as well! I went to look at your use profile and pulled up the threads you started but couldn't find anything. I pick my car up in a three weeks and would definitely follow your procedure, especially for the first 50 miles

[minn19]

Originally Posted by Who's on first

Here were my deals.
15' MSRP $77,8xx
Paid $70,450
Drove it for just under 10 months
16,967 miles
Trade Value $62,000

So....$8,450 difference... And there were 9 payments made. In my book that's basically dead even.

16' MSRP $86,745
Paid $75,500
(With ED)

People that demand you're losing a shit ton of money, some of them just don't get it.

How can you NOT take that deal?

Those are great deals. But, you now owe 75k instead of 62ish, plus fees and some taxes. You had to pay to go to Europe and pick up the car. Which, you might have done any way for vacation. That looks like 15k plus to do the switch to me. Unless my math is really off. Payments might be the same, but the overall cost isn't.

People aren't demanding anything. It is just reality.

[Who's on first]

Originally Posted by minn19

Those are great deals. But, you now owe 75k instead of 62ish, plus fees and some taxes. You had to pay to go to Europe and pick up the car. Which, you might have done any way for vacation. That looks like 15k plus to do the switch to me. Unless my math is really off. Payments might be the same, but the overall cost isn't.

People aren't demanding anything. It is just reality.

You're right. Overall number still higher...

But, I also got:
Full Leather
DCT
Comp Package
Individual Paint.

None of which were on the 15'.

It's fair to pay more, for getting more.

Add those additional options... Again... Basically even.

[minn19]

Originally Posted by Who's on first

You're right. Overall number still higher...

But, I also got:
Full Leather
DCT
Comp Package
Individual Paint.

None of which were on the 15'.

It's fair to pay more, for getting more.

Add those additional options... Again... Basically even.

Very true and sounds like it is going to be a sweet car. What color if you don't mind?

[Who's on first]

Originally Posted by minn19

Very true and sounds like it is going to be a sweet car. What color if you don't mind?

I don't know how to link threads, especially on the iPhone app.

Here are two current threads that show a lot.

"Any pics of Tanzanite Blue w/ ZCP?"

" 1st ED journey starts"

[Mandi90TT]

Originally Posted by minn19

People aren't demanding anything. It is just reality.

Look, as I pointed out multiple times in this thread, some people have gotten better deals than others, but I doubt anyone (anyone trading in their 15 non-ZCP, that is) is getting away with only paying the $5.5k when you start adding in all those other pieces. Truth be told, even $15k is not really a bad deal, given that you got to drive a really nice F8x for 1-2 years for that $15k.

Overall, it's a decision everyone has to make for themselves. I do agree with the OP on one point:

*Overall, I HIGHLY recommend ticking that ZCP box if you can swing it. I'd forgo other options to have the ZCP, without a second thought. For sports cars that I buy, I usually spec them close to stripper-level as I prefer them to be as light as possible, so the ZCP is a no-brainier and worth every penny.*

ZCP is worth the $5.5k. No doubt. Is it worth the $5.5k plus another $10k? Not for me.

[minn19]

Originally Posted by Who's on first

I don't know how to link threads, especially on the iPhone app.

Here are two current threads that show a lot.

"Any pics of Tanzanite Blue w/ ZCP?"

" 1st ED journey starts"

Very nice! TB is probably my favorite Individual color. Congrats.

[Barathon]

Originally Posted by minn19

Those are great deals. But, you now owe 75k instead of 62ish, plus fees and some taxes. You had to pay to go to Europe and pick up the car. Which, you might have done any way for vacation. That looks like 15k plus to do the switch to me. Unless my math is really off. Payments might be the same, but the overall cost isn't.

People aren't demanding anything. It is just reality.

I'm just driving a little bit up the road, so no flight tickets and no fees and no taxes. Sure I owe more but its a newer car, better color (for me) and more options.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Dave 90TT

Sure, whatever. If you think so. Go drive your Ferrari (with the 12" wheel gap) and I will drive my Pinto.

It ain't a Pinto. It's a Civic.

[Mandi90TT]

Indeed. Perhaps even a Civic SI with VTEC?

[rubber_ducky]

The debate about the differences in the seats (aside from the holes) is easily put to rest with a tape measure and some pics.

Personally, I'd be disappointed in BMW if they did such a radical redesign of the seats without incorporating seat belt passages. On their competition package seats no less.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the seats are the only weight-saving measure in the CP right? Unless the 20" wheels are actually lighter than the 19s

[Gibson6594]

Originally Posted by rubber_ducky

The debate about the differences in the seats (aside from the holes) is easily put to rest with a tape measure and some pics.

Personally, I'd be disappointed in BMW if they did such a radical redesign of the seats without incorporating seat belt passages. On their competition package seats no less.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the seats are the only weight-saving measure in the CP right? Unless the 20" wheels are actually lighter than the 19s

Pretty sure the 20s are heavier than the 19s.