Solve: F8X M3/M4 Cold Start engine click/tick/knock sound

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Graves

My car was making that noise. Took it to a reputable BMW shop and the guy said it was the oil. Long story short, the shit oil BMW uses coupled with the south Ga heat was literally baking the oil in my car and caused build up which made a lifter (cam follower) stick. He cleaned the motor with a 3 stage treatment and I'm now running a 10w60 and it runs and sounds amazing. Idk, something to consider depending on where you are located.

I know this was a while ago but as an aside, if a mechanic tells you that the Georgia heat is baking your oil you should find a new mechanic. The operating oil temperature of an S55 engine or any other engine is almost exactly 100 F higher than the highest temperature ever recorded in the state of Georgia. It takes temperatures in excess of 275 F to even harm conventional oil. Synthetic oils have flashpoints in the 400s.

[doughboy]

10w60! That's seems a bit heavy for s55?🙈

Isn't that the old s54 oil spec?

[chris719]

Originally Posted by doughboy

10w60! That's seems a bit heavy for s55?🙈

Isn't that the old s54 oil spec?

Yes, it probably wont hurt the engine despite common belief / myth, but it's for sure outside of the design target.

[super.sarz]

Hi - my tick started after getting crankub, downpipes, chargepipes, stage 2 and spark plugs done at ssr performance. The car is back in the shop and they’re saying the ticking on cold start is likely due to the lifters/rockers on the exhaust camshaft side. Problem is I went in and got the stuff done post warranty and tuned the car etc. SSR said the lifter tick is not relevant to the crankhub job but it didn’t exist prior to getting the work done.

They have the car now and the shop has been great overall; they’re even installing the Mosselman oil thermostat I ordered (the stage 2 and the down pipes and all seem to be running a little hotter than before - nothing crazy, just the second line - I believe 220 in efficient mode. Figured I might as well have that installed during this issue being resolved. They haven’t dug into the car yet but I will circle back with updates.

[doughboy]

Fixing the ticking / loose exhaust cam is a 10 minute job when they've got the cam cover off which they had to do to fit the crank hub anyway.

Few £ for the bolts that's it.

They might have disturbed if fitting the cam locking assembly to fit the hub.

[super.sarz]

Yeah, problem is they’re taking it all apart after they had already done the crankhub work (a couple weeks apart). I’m going to let them know about the cam locking - they’re currently quoting $3750 for the work due to the labor. I did just get all the crankhub, chargepipes, down pipe, stage 2 done a few weeks prior and shelled out a good amount for that previously.

Relevant topic: myself and another person also seem to be experiencing similar issues: link to topic: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2052754

[doughboy]

3750 is outrageous, i replied in the other thread

[super.sarz]

Thanks @doughboy! For a reference for everyone, the tick started after install. Still getting details on the issues after diagnosis but pretty sure it’s a cam tick.

[aptwave]

Originally Posted by danyalsworld

aptwave lmk updates please 🙏🏻 have the same noise for my 2018 f80 comp. Let me know how much it costed aswell if you don’t mind since I’m not under warranty. Appreciate it

Not sure if it's still actual for you, but for any other people who searching for this issue and solution, this is how I fixed it:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=72

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by aptwave

Not sure if it's still actual for you, but for any other people who searching for this issue and solution, this is how I fixed it:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...9&postcount=72

Nice write up.

Thing is any bolt that is TTY (stretch) as indicated by torque plus angle spec MUST be replaced every time.

The angle turn is the stretch stage of clamping. If you do that twice you'll end up exceeding the elastic stage of the bolt and weaken it.

If they missed it off there REP that's bad.

They're so cheap it's a no brainer.

I know, my indy removed the cam to check for journal wear.

[boperm3f80]

Hello ,

I live in France and I have recently had this famous ticking noise problem, some mornings (not always)
Can you give me the reference of the bolts to change, as well as the tightening torque (nm degree) please?
Forgive my English which is bad :P

thank you

[TTM0TION]

Originally Posted by JGbim4

Hey not sure if you went through with the fix. I’ve had this noise for quite some time. It would be intermittent but annoying as hell especially under load. Finally went to my Indy shop and I showed them what was happening. They immediately knew it was the exhaust cam shaft. They removed the valve cover and inspected everything from the top. Came shaft was still good. The bottom ledge, which is what was causing the noise was a bit loose. Everything was torqued down (with correct specs) and timed. Engine is sounding just fine now. 2k for the job.

Which shop? I think I need to bring mine in for the same thing also.