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06-24-2007, 04:03 AM | #1 |
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Post on E46Fanatics about remote top open
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=483072
That thread has a post from someone that's worked out how to add remote opening to his 330Ci. The other thread he references has a note about how the same instructions should work for the 2003 Z4, with one change. I thought others might be interested. |
07-26-2007, 01:23 AM | #2 |
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I'd be really interested if only my remote would reach farther than 20ft from the car. There's another solution of using a module and hook it up to a cell phone. Then you text message certain phrases and it would open door, roll down/up windows, or do other things.
Another one is an addon to your alarm and register through some satellite company. You call the 1800 Number and it'll do a number of things. |
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08-22-2007, 10:11 PM | #7 |
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Wow, reading this reminds me: I work too much! It's almost two months since I planned this project, and still no chance to get to it. Next week I've got some time off leading into the 3 day weekend, so I'll definitely get to this then.
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09-01-2007, 06:32 PM | #9 |
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Just a quick update - I wasn't able to finish the project today due to a very late starting and a missing wire crimper, but it looks good. I was able to locate all the wires (which are all the same colors as in the E46 cab write-ups I've read), isolate them, and I've programmed the TR7 module for 2 pulses and 12 seconds - what this means is that after I press "unlock - lock - unlock "- on the remote within 5 seconds, the top will lower for 12 seconds (plenty of time for the Z4 top). Tomorrow I'll need to connect 4 wires and I should be good to go! I want to use my car tonight, so I reassembled everything, but it shouldn't take more than an hour tomorrow.
I did change the project slightly - I decided not to bother with adding the top raising capability, at least for now. I just can't see myself walking away hoping my car finishes closing itself up. Once I'm done, I'll do a more detailed write-up. There won't be any pictures - one of the glitches I ran into was discover my old digital camera is broken (I also lost my wire crimper somewhere). Confidence is high, though - if this doesn't work tomorrow, odds are I've screwed something up. |
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09-01-2007, 10:40 PM | #11 |
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The wiring harness is behind and underneath the glove box. You remove the glove box door, then remove the cover underneath that, over the footwell - a couple of Philips head screws (Hmm, actually, I'm not sure you need to remove the door, now that I think of it - I just did). There are 3 connectors going into a white box bolted to the cover - the middle connector is the X253, which is the one you want. It's got 54 pins (3 levels of 18), and you connect the wires from the TR7 as follows:
Down Module White - pin 20 (unlock signal detect), white and black wire Green - pin 51 (signals top motor to lower), blue wire (one of several, be careful) Red - pin 47 (power) red and purple wire Black - pin 10 (ground) black and brown wire Really, programming the TR7 was trickier. As for having a spare, sorry, I took them both apart and I'm using the spare to program the one for the car. I'm going for a more compact set-up than the original thread on E46fanatics creates. |
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09-04-2007, 07:06 PM | #13 |
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Sorry, forgot to update this. While programming the TR7 I had a stray wire cross one of my battery contacts, and got that wonderful "pop" sound and the smell of burnt plastic that always bodes well when working with electronics. I'm awaiting delivery of a replacement, but I'm also checking around Chicago stereo shops to see if I can buy one locally. If I can find one, I'll wrap-up the project immediately. |
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09-08-2007, 02:45 PM | #15 |
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A TR7 module is, essentially, an excellent opportunity to use Google's search facilities. You can also check that your mouse's ability to click on links is working, using the link in my first post to test.
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09-09-2007, 12:31 AM | #16 |
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didn't work for me
when i do L-U-L, and U-L-U 2 pulses, the units light up accordingly but softtop movement is not there....The light on the factory switch did not turn on when I do it with the key, I have to turn UNLOCK then Neutral, then unlock again then hold to get the top lowered(vice versa for raising top) and the top moved as designed the light on the factory switch did light up as normal. i don't know where I messed up or if this even works with the Z4
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09-12-2007, 01:38 PM | #19 |
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nope..so far i've given up on the project until someone with better knowledge of electricals can figure out what PIN 20 and 22 on E46's are for the Z4.
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12-26-2007, 02:04 PM | #20 |
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Drives: 2003 Z4 2.5 Sport
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Location: Santa Fe, NM
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Has anyone attempting this project? It sounds interesting & I'd appreacate hearing if anyone has achieved successful results!
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