Quote:
Originally Posted by Musashi
I agree with 1to 3 unsure about the etc. My friend's B58 comes with a 0W-20 recommendation. Of course, unsuitable for a hot inline 6. the 20 is done to ensure a lower CO2 emission (and onyl that reason). Factually, at equal DD spring or winter driving a 20 will burn less gas than a 30 or a 40. At temperature, however, the 20 is inferior to the 30 or the 40, especially when pushed and in summer. Since Ms are assumed to be hot, they never dare put a 20 or a 30 variation.
In addition, not oils work the same, whether in F1 or within street or GT cars. An oil may be wonderfully OK for a Stinger or some Japanese car with low engine tolerances, but Passable for a German car operating at just micron tolerances. Either case, having seen myself the delta between a 5W-40 Castrol vs Shell vs Leightluaff vs Motul vs Fuchs vs poor Molygen, I do agree that the best oils are those specifically approved, as in Letter Stamped approved after testing, by the manufacturer.
The rest of Recommended for LL-01, which is the Oil maker's assessment as an emergency alternative to approved oils, should be taken with several grains of salt as satisfying that engine's needs.
Now, for 99% of slow casual DD, indeed, none of these should matter.
|
Its true molygen is not certified but it meets/exceed the requirements. Redline oil is not certified either but its some of the best oil you can use. If you are still in warranty, dont use unapproved oils.
Im currently using molygen and felt no difference between it and BMW 0W-30. If you look at the UOA posted, it protects the engine. Hundreds of factors could cause your car to feel different. Worn spark plugs, gas, etc... I have never felt such a noticeable difference like you have. I go from 5w-30 and 15w-50 and its a small difference on cold starts but feels the same when the engine is warmed up.