Quote:
Originally Posted by F80_edd57
I have had a valve cover gasket leak on my M3 for sometime now , took me a while to find out why I was going thru a Quart of oil every 2-3 weeks . Figured it was normal for BMW considering the miles I was driving . As we know how the BMW Pcv system is set up by the engine breathing thru the into the crank case by 6 small ports right on the edge of the valve cover. If the valve cover has a slight leak this will and did affect the cars venting system and will cause excess crankcase pressure .I was constantly getting oil in my intake tract , and smoke out of my exhaust when taking off from a stop . After I did repair no more of these symptoms occurred.
I am not a mechanic nor do I take any responsibility if you decide to go this route I take no respobsibility if anything goes wrong on your behalf . I decided to do this DIY due to the s55 being new and not having much info out there with these cars yet . This is my first DIY write up so bare with me .
Tools needed:
-Hex Drive Socket Set Metric
-Torque Ft Lbs Ratchet
-New Valve Cover Gaskets
-Valve cover bolts (Optional In my right mind I think you can at least get 2-3 uses out of a set before due for a change)
-Optional (RV Grey Gasket Maker)
-Variety oft Open end wrenches and sockets
Step 1 :
-Remove Neg (-)Battery Terminal
Step 2:
-Remove the 2 Charge pipes using a 6mm Socket for 1 clamp Up-Top and 8mm socket for the lower bolt on the Turbo Inlet
-Remove intakes (procedure varies on if you have aftermarket or Oem
-Step 3:
Remove coil Harness and grounds,fuel injector Pigtails. I taped these up and labeled them for each bank Just in case .
Step 4:
-Loosen and remove with a 14mm open end wrench fuel injector rails Leads
-Remove fuel Rail Lines two bolts in pic down below and also the 4 above the intake manifold inlets (I removed rubber gourmet by oil filter houses to be able to move around the Heat exchanger to making these more accessible).Assuring you let the car cool down(please don't do this after you have just driven the car, there will be pressure in the line! Wait 2 hours or so before doing so.
Step 5:
Remove Aluminium Brace and plastic Drainage Guard
(Don't forget the 2 Hex bolts in center of lower windshield under plastic caps)
Step 6
-Now you can finally start loosening up the Valve cover .
-the rear 3 bolts are tricky as I had to have my gf with smaller hands access them for me . I kept dropping my sockets and wrenches back there and lost over 5 8mm sockets lol.
Step 7:
-now that you have the valve cover off I removed any oil or debri along the head brim and cleaned it up nicely.
-I also cleaned out my valve covers vent system with compresser and some intake cleaner as this gets quite dirty and your engine will thank you for it
Step 8:
- (optional) use grey Rv deal around corners (or where you think best suits)
-Place 3 square gaskets and main valve cover gasket inside of cover , make sure it's pressed in there good will make it easier when setting cover on head.Put all hardware in bolt holes
-Once cover is on head I finger fed each bolt under hand tight, then I went around with torque ft/lbs wrench and brought them all to 7lbs . The manner I torqued them down in was a star fashion from outside In bringing them down so I did a total of 3 cycles and (1) last final snug to make sure everything was dialed in.
-All of these were torqued down to 7lbs. I did not have factory torque specs for this as I simply went about a torque procedure of torquing down valve cover to half of spark plugs.
Step 9:
- Do disassembly procedure in reverse fashion then enjoy
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Just to be clear, when you say valve cover, you mention about the cylinder head cover in real oem parts(11127846359) ? I really have the same problem and I'm trying to solve it. For how long a good mechanic needs to spend time fix it?