BMW M3 and BMW M4 Forum - View Single Post

evanescent03 · 04-19-2015, 01:22 AM

starting with the fresh stuff, cw138 made a video! awesome man!

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and i wouldn't even consider myself an expert. I posted this mostly to show where specific parts can be found on the F80 and what tools you'll need so you can be prepared when you start disassembling your car. This is not meant to be a comprehensive guide to learn how to properly lift a car, use a power bleeder, or do any of the tasks that I outline. Do at your own risk, cross reference with other sources around the web and be a sponge for what you see/hear. There are good DIY videos that show how to use a power bleeder. Realize that, if done incorrectly, working on your brakes can cause brake system failure leading to property damage, injury or death. If things in this DIY aren't crystal clear to you, please get professional assistance! Had to say it, i know a lot of you guys know far more than i do, but we gotta watch out for the first-timers! we were all there once (at least..

)

This is my first DIY, it's very late, and my computer has crashed 3 times in the middle of this, so please bear with me and make suggestions/corrections where you see fit!

I separated the photos into brake pads and then brake fluid sections. In reality, I did rear brake pads, then rear brake fluid, then front brake pads, then front brake fluid. I could only lift one half or the car at a time because of the lift i was using. The convenient thing is to do the brake pads first on all the corners that you have the wheel off (whether it's one, two, or all four at a time). This prevents you from having to depressurize and repressurize your system because you can't change the pads with the bleeder pressurize (i tried and am embarrassed to admit it).

This is a LONG post with a lot of details here's the overview and is probably enough for most of you.. feel free to read every word i wrote though and hopefully you'll learn something or be able to teach me something!

Pads:
Wheel off, use a small punch to carefully push out the two pins holding the spring and pads in place, spread the pads/pistons apart, remove old pads, slide new pads (that may or may not have anti-squeal compound on them), replace spring & pins (remove pad wear sensor and zip-tie out of the way, or replace it with a new sensor if you felt led to do so). Done. incredibly easy.

Fluid:
Same way you're used to doing it, you'll need 10mm wrench to remove/loosen the panel over the brake fluid reservoir, do normal power bleeder stuff and bleed away, making sure to bleed/flush both the inboard and outboard side of the front calipers. pump the brakes until you have good pressure before driving away!

for someone who's very familiar with doing their own brakes but not having one it on an F80 - that little couple liner may be plenty, if you want/need more details, please read on.

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pskttjp5ba.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top):
Armamentarium:

- 10mm wrench (to remove cover over brake fluid reservoir)
- 11mm wrench (loosens all bleed nipples)
- 17mm socket (wheel lugs)
- breaker bar
- torque wrench
- impact gun for lugs
- a punch (shorter than these is probably better, eBay has one called "Racingbrake Caliper pad pin bolt punch")
- needle nose pliers (to cut zip ties, and to hammer the punches, a hammer would've been better)
- pads (pagid rs29 for me)
- anti-squeal compound (many ask you to apply it to your new pads several/many hours ahead of time so check the day before)
- brake pad spreader (e.g.: 29100 Quick Quad pad spreader, can be found on amazon)
- fluid (DOT 4 for me)
- Motive Power Bleeder (or similar, or a friend to pump/hold the brake pedal down while you open the bleeder nipples .. make sure they don't release the pedal while the nipple valve is open or it will suck air back into the system)
- zip ties (to tie brake pad sensors aside)
- rags/gloves (brakes are filthy, brake fluid is very damaging to painted surfaces, so i hear)
- flashlight (the obvious, also to illuminate the reservoir to monitor the fluid level)
- *not pictured* a hammer for the punches; larger rags to cover engine/car to prevent spillage damage

Above (bottom image):
Get the car (or as many wheels as possible) up off the ground; remove wheel(s)

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ps7ona2r6s.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): tap pins loose, i nicked the paint so be careful and possibly use something other than a metal punch (plastic/hard rubber?)
(middle): when the pins are part way out, depress the metal spring to relieve tension on the pins and finish removing them [without controlling the spring a little, it can do what springs do best and fly out, damaging your car or your face, so be a little careful with this]
(bottom): you will need to squeeze the pads towards the outside of the car to compress the pistons and make space for removal (and your new pads). there is a special tool for this as well, but i was able to do it by hand. if you can wiggle a pad out, you can also use a broad instrument to pry them away from the rotor, just be careful not to destroy your rotor although it's probably pretty tough (this is one of those "not best practices" things, but seem to work without causing damage). once there is space, the pads very simply slide out.

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pshjvqadvu.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): the passenger rear and driver front have brake wear sensors. ideally you replace these any time you touch them. i keep an eye on pad thickness and therefore have never replaced a sensor and haven't had a problem. carefully separate the sensor from the pad (don't lean the punch against the pad material like i did it'll chip the edge). the length of the sensor for the rear pad doesn't give you much leeway, and as you slide the pad out it kinks the wire right at the sensor which can be damaging; you may want to remove the sensor before removing the pad to prevent damaging the wire connection.
(middle): i zip tied the sensor to itself to create a loop and remove slack, then tied it up to the solid part of the brake line. you could reattach it but i didn't see a point since i'll be swapping pads again before long.
(bottom): to show the detail of how i did it .. probably 100 ways to do this

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pssnexgu7y.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): the only differentiation between the inside & outside, right or left pad (to me) is the little dimple by the "17' .. maybe this is for your own reference so i just picked a way and went with it. they seem identical for all intents and purposes aside from the dimple.

(middle) these are actually the front pads but i wanted to show the backing plate i didn't re-use these because it seems like they are glued on, but it may come out later than these should be transferred. (I haven't noticed any excessive squealing and braking has been fine NOT re-using them) the rears didn't have significant amount of anti-squeal compound.

(bottom) thread the pins back through, holding the metal spring in place may take a little finagling of all the parts to make it happen but for me the best sequence was: top pin all the way through, metal spring in place and then lower pin; be sure the pins protrude the same amount as before you started.

Now you're one!!! with at least that wheel repeat for the other rear wheel. Very few things are different in the front but since I know people love photos and can be afraid of things that are different (myself included):

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pspu9j9c17.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top left): the metal spring is a little different than the rears but is the same principle, the design makes it slightly more tricky but still quite easy. you'll likely want to put the top/bottom pins in part way and thread them through the tabs on the metal spring (that rest on the pins once pins are installed)

(lower left): this is where i tied (using a figure 8) the wear sensor on the front driver's side

(right): all done! but if you still have the fluid to flush/replace then don't put the wheel back on just yet

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psxrhwriby.jpg[/IMG]

Above: of note: i noticed no differences in inside/outside/left/right for the RS29 pads except that little dimple by the "17'.. the pads were clearly designed using the stocks as a go-by, but the stock pads also had the additional layer/clip/plate on them and a couple other chunks attached i haven't researched what this is all about but hopefully someone will chime in. none of it seems to matter thus far. lastly, i reused anti-squeal from the stock pads (feel free to use fresh stuff) because i forgot to bring my container of the stuff (chasing around a 2 yr old and 10 month old makes you forget the basics .. that's why i would use a list next time!)

FLUID TIME!! Again, i did this throughout due to my lift situation but either of these could be done independently so i wanted to break it apart.

If you don't understand what is going on, do more research until you KNOW you can handle this job and are willing to spend a lot of time and headache trying to fix a problem (air in the lines which will then possibly require towing your car to a shop where they can fix it using ABS activators, etc; brake fluid spraying on your car and destroying the paint; poor performance form the brakes, etc) if you have any reservations, please be careful and/or take your car to someone who can help you

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ps6986itll.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): locate the triangular plastic covering near the windshield, it has three plastic bolt heads sticking through it and a rivet near the driver's side of the engine bay
(middle): use 10 mm wrench to rotate the bolts and unlock the tray, swivel it on riveted corner out of the way
(bottom) expose the brake fluid reservoir, remove the cap

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psmhh1qll0.jpg[/IMG]

Above: (left) i made an attempt to remove the filter inside the reservoir this was so i could hopefully siphon off a significant amount of dirty/old fluid without pushing it all the way through the system. i realized i didn't have something to siphon said fluid so I abandoned the idea. you should be able to just grab it an (in a controlled fashion) rip the filter out. i have in other cars but this one seems especially stuck.
(right) i pressurized the tank while it was attached to the reservoir to confirm a closed system (per the instructions ON THE BOTTLE!

) once all seems well sealed, go ahead and put your fluid in. I used 1L. If i wanted to be 100% sure i got EVERYTHING (within natural limitations) replaced, i would've done more. if you end up bleeding more than you need to out the back calipers then you'll run out on the fronts but you'll get better at this as you do it a few times. you can add more fluid part way into the procedure, but you don't want to accidentally run the pressure bleeder ry and start pumping air through the car's fluid reservoir and into the system.. that's where things get ugly (so i hear)

I follow the sequence: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. the idea is you start with the caliper farthest from the brake fluid reservoir and incrementally get closer. if you have right-hand-drive this may be different for you; i'm not sure if the car is mirrored or not...

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pspovpno09.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): locate the bleeder valve/nipple on the back of the rear caliper and pop off the rubber cap (you an probably use your hands, but using a plier or screwdriver can help when they're on pretty tight, just don't bang up the valve or the beautiful caliper paint!)
(bottom): put your 11mm closed end wrench over the nipple (using an open wrench may mean you drop/fumble the wrench which may mean you don't close the valve when your wanted to: potential for big "uh oh"

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pszofz4iei.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): attach a good bleeder-bottle hose to the nipple and open the valve. **CAUTION** i've read that if you open the valve TOO far it can start sucking air in along the threads. I'm not sure if this makes sense to me, but it does definitely open up the chance for excess fluid to come out and make a mess. so don't' over-do it, just open it until you see some good flow (1/4-1/2 turn maybe?)

(bottom): pay attention as you go along how much you are removing and subtract that amount from what you put in the bottle to start.. that will give you a good estimate (unless there is a leak somewhere) as to how much fluid you have remaining in your pressure bleeder. also, in this style bottle make sure you leave enough room in the top of the bottle for the hose to drain into it when you disconnect from your caliper to prevent spillage. (if you are doing the pump-pump-hold method, this is where you must keep topping off your fluid reservoir, never letting it get empty [i wouldn't even let it get anywhere close to empty])

So now that you've started draining old fluid out, when do you stop? great question and i don't know the BEST answer to it. I stopped after roughly 1/4 of my fluid came through the rear passenger caliper which is when the fluid also looked quite clear (earlier, you could see little flakes an lots of tiny bubbles. i'll periodically close the valve, thump on the caliper a few times with a rubber mallet, my hand, or something else to loosen up bubbles, an re-open the valve to release debris/bubbles that may have been clinging to the walls or in nooks/crannies. As you work your way from caliper to caliper, you'll need to remove less and less fluid before it runs clear. You'll also need to make sure you keep the pressure on the power bleeder up (i stayed 15-20psi, but read the instructions on the bottle of your unit!)

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psxbukw6i2.jpg[/IMG]

Above: when you make your way to the front, make sure you do the inside AND outside of each brake caliper.

[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psm9zjmtkb.jpg[/IMG]

Above (top): (some DIY videos don't show this step, but it's on the bottle) the last step before disconnecting the power bleeder (on my unit) is to tilt it over so the pick-up tube sucks air up, slowly bleed the front driver's side (the closest caliper to the brake fluid reservoir). I put a flashlight on the reservoir so i could easily see the brake fluid level. you bleed the valve as you watch fluid come out in your bleed bottle and the air slowly starts to descend within the brake fluid reservoir, stop when your level is at/below the "max" indicator.

depressurize the system by opening the BOTTLE FIRST (with my unit) and only then remove the other end of the power bleeder form the car's reservoir. reversing this order could make a very big mess. put the lid on the brake fluid reservoir. swing the plastic cover back into place, you'll see a couple tabs that need to be slid in a certain way to make it secure, then put selective pressure on it while you rotate the plastic bolts (x3) to lock it back in place.

(bottom): make sure you pump your brakes a lot when you get in the car, don't just turn the car on and try to drive off it takes a few pumps to pressurize the system that's another one i learned the had way (e46 m3 backed out of the garage and took off down the driveway int our 2013 328i that only had 8k miles on the clockoops!). vacuum your car if it is dirty like mine... and make sure to torque down your wheel lug bolts (102.5 lb/ft (corresponding w/the 14x1.25 bolts) - confirmed by BMW per gsrbri, thanks!)

slowly test your brakes out and be sure to bed them in according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

I hope this helps some people! good luck and be safe!

additional resources:

04-19-2015, 01:22 AM	#1
evanescent03 Lieutenant Colonel 1032 Rep 1,997 Posts Drives: '24 M3 CS; '22 GT4 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA iTrader: (2)	starting with the fresh stuff, cw138 made a video! awesome man! Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic and i wouldn't even consider myself an expert. I posted this mostly to show where specific parts can be found on the F80 and what tools you'll need so you can be prepared when you start disassembling your car. This is not meant to be a comprehensive guide to learn how to properly lift a car, use a power bleeder, or do any of the tasks that I outline. Do at your own risk, cross reference with other sources around the web and be a sponge for what you see/hear. There are good DIY videos that show how to use a power bleeder. Realize that, if done incorrectly, working on your brakes can cause brake system failure leading to property damage, injury or death. If things in this DIY aren't crystal clear to you, please get professional assistance! Had to say it, i know a lot of you guys know far more than i do, but we gotta watch out for the first-timers! we were all there once (at least..) This is my first DIY, it's very late, and my computer has crashed 3 times in the middle of this, so please bear with me and make suggestions/corrections where you see fit! I separated the photos into brake pads and then brake fluid sections. In reality, I did rear brake pads, then rear brake fluid, then front brake pads, then front brake fluid. I could only lift one half or the car at a time because of the lift i was using. The convenient thing is to do the brake pads first on all the corners that you have the wheel off (whether it's one, two, or all four at a time). This prevents you from having to depressurize and repressurize your system because you can't change the pads with the bleeder pressurize (i tried and am embarrassed to admit it). This is a LONG post with a lot of details here's the overview and is probably enough for most of you.. feel free to read every word i wrote though and hopefully you'll learn something or be able to teach me something! Pads: Wheel off, use a small punch to carefully push out the two pins holding the spring and pads in place, spread the pads/pistons apart, remove old pads, slide new pads (that may or may not have anti-squeal compound on them), replace spring & pins (remove pad wear sensor and zip-tie out of the way, or replace it with a new sensor if you felt led to do so). Done. incredibly easy. Fluid: Same way you're used to doing it, you'll need 10mm wrench to remove/loosen the panel over the brake fluid reservoir, do normal power bleeder stuff and bleed away, making sure to bleed/flush both the inboard and outboard side of the front calipers. pump the brakes until you have good pressure before driving away! for someone who's very familiar with doing their own brakes but not having one it on an F80 - that little couple liner may be plenty, if you want/need more details, please read on. [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pskttjp5ba.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): Armamentarium: - 10mm wrench (to remove cover over brake fluid reservoir) - 11mm wrench (loosens all bleed nipples) - 17mm socket (wheel lugs) - breaker bar - torque wrench - impact gun for lugs - a punch (shorter than these is probably better, eBay has one called "Racingbrake Caliper pad pin bolt punch") - needle nose pliers (to cut zip ties, and to hammer the punches, a hammer would've been better) - pads (pagid rs29 for me) - anti-squeal compound (many ask you to apply it to your new pads several/many hours ahead of time so check the day before) - brake pad spreader (e.g.: 29100 Quick Quad pad spreader, can be found on amazon) - fluid (DOT 4 for me) - Motive Power Bleeder (or similar, or a friend to pump/hold the brake pedal down while you open the bleeder nipples .. make sure they don't release the pedal while the nipple valve is open or it will suck air back into the system) - zip ties (to tie brake pad sensors aside) - rags/gloves (brakes are filthy, brake fluid is very damaging to painted surfaces, so i hear) - flashlight (the obvious, also to illuminate the reservoir to monitor the fluid level) - not pictured a hammer for the punches; larger rags to cover engine/car to prevent spillage damage Above (bottom image): Get the car (or as many wheels as possible) up off the ground; remove wheel(s) [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ps7ona2r6s.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): tap pins loose, i nicked the paint so be careful and possibly use something other than a metal punch (plastic/hard rubber?) (middle): when the pins are part way out, depress the metal spring to relieve tension on the pins and finish removing them [without controlling the spring a little, it can do what springs do best and fly out, damaging your car or your face, so be a little careful with this] (bottom): you will need to squeeze the pads towards the outside of the car to compress the pistons and make space for removal (and your new pads). there is a special tool for this as well, but i was able to do it by hand. if you can wiggle a pad out, you can also use a broad instrument to pry them away from the rotor, just be careful not to destroy your rotor although it's probably pretty tough (this is one of those "not best practices" things, but seem to work without causing damage). once there is space, the pads very simply slide out. [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pshjvqadvu.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): the passenger rear and driver front have brake wear sensors. ideally you replace these any time you touch them. i keep an eye on pad thickness and therefore have never replaced a sensor and haven't had a problem. carefully separate the sensor from the pad (don't lean the punch against the pad material like i did it'll chip the edge). the length of the sensor for the rear pad doesn't give you much leeway, and as you slide the pad out it kinks the wire right at the sensor which can be damaging; you may want to remove the sensor before removing the pad to prevent damaging the wire connection. (middle): i zip tied the sensor to itself to create a loop and remove slack, then tied it up to the solid part of the brake line. you could reattach it but i didn't see a point since i'll be swapping pads again before long. (bottom): to show the detail of how i did it .. probably 100 ways to do this [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pssnexgu7y.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): the only differentiation between the inside & outside, right or left pad (to me) is the little dimple by the "17' .. maybe this is for your own reference so i just picked a way and went with it. they seem identical for all intents and purposes aside from the dimple. (middle) these are actually the front pads but i wanted to show the backing plate i didn't re-use these because it seems like they are glued on, but it may come out later than these should be transferred. (I haven't noticed any excessive squealing and braking has been fine NOT re-using them) the rears didn't have significant amount of anti-squeal compound. (bottom) thread the pins back through, holding the metal spring in place may take a little finagling of all the parts to make it happen but for me the best sequence was: top pin all the way through, metal spring in place and then lower pin; be sure the pins protrude the same amount as before you started. Now you're one!!! with at least that wheel repeat for the other rear wheel. Very few things are different in the front but since I know people love photos and can be afraid of things that are different (myself included): [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pspu9j9c17.jpg[/IMG] Above (top left): the metal spring is a little different than the rears but is the same principle, the design makes it slightly more tricky but still quite easy. you'll likely want to put the top/bottom pins in part way and thread them through the tabs on the metal spring (that rest on the pins once pins are installed) (lower left): this is where i tied (using a figure 8) the wear sensor on the front driver's side (right): all done! but if you still have the fluid to flush/replace then don't put the wheel back on just yet [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psxrhwriby.jpg[/IMG] Above: of note: i noticed no differences in inside/outside/left/right for the RS29 pads except that little dimple by the "17'.. the pads were clearly designed using the stocks as a go-by, but the stock pads also had the additional layer/clip/plate on them and a couple other chunks attached i haven't researched what this is all about but hopefully someone will chime in. none of it seems to matter thus far. lastly, i reused anti-squeal from the stock pads (feel free to use fresh stuff) because i forgot to bring my container of the stuff (chasing around a 2 yr old and 10 month old makes you forget the basics .. that's why i would use a list next time!) FLUID TIME!! Again, i did this throughout due to my lift situation but either of these could be done independently so i wanted to break it apart. If you don't understand what is going on, do more research until you KNOW you can handle this job and are willing to spend a lot of time and headache trying to fix a problem (air in the lines which will then possibly require towing your car to a shop where they can fix it using ABS activators, etc; brake fluid spraying on your car and destroying the paint; poor performance form the brakes, etc) if you have any reservations, please be careful and/or take your car to someone who can help you [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...ps6986itll.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): locate the triangular plastic covering near the windshield, it has three plastic bolt heads sticking through it and a rivet near the driver's side of the engine bay (middle): use 10 mm wrench to rotate the bolts and unlock the tray, swivel it on riveted corner out of the way (bottom) expose the brake fluid reservoir, remove the cap [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psmhh1qll0.jpg[/IMG] Above: (left) i made an attempt to remove the filter inside the reservoir this was so i could hopefully siphon off a significant amount of dirty/old fluid without pushing it all the way through the system. i realized i didn't have something to siphon said fluid so I abandoned the idea. you should be able to just grab it an (in a controlled fashion) rip the filter out. i have in other cars but this one seems especially stuck. (right) i pressurized the tank while it was attached to the reservoir to confirm a closed system (per the instructions ON THE BOTTLE! ) once all seems well sealed, go ahead and put your fluid in. I used 1L. If i wanted to be 100% sure i got EVERYTHING (within natural limitations) replaced, i would've done more. if you end up bleeding more than you need to out the back calipers then you'll run out on the fronts but you'll get better at this as you do it a few times. you can add more fluid part way into the procedure, but you don't want to accidentally run the pressure bleeder ry and start pumping air through the car's fluid reservoir and into the system.. that's where things get ugly (so i hear) I follow the sequence: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. the idea is you start with the caliper farthest from the brake fluid reservoir and incrementally get closer. if you have right-hand-drive this may be different for you; i'm not sure if the car is mirrored or not... [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pspovpno09.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): locate the bleeder valve/nipple on the back of the rear caliper and pop off the rubber cap (you an probably use your hands, but using a plier or screwdriver can help when they're on pretty tight, just don't bang up the valve or the beautiful caliper paint!) (bottom): put your 11mm closed end wrench over the nipple (using an open wrench may mean you drop/fumble the wrench which may mean you don't close the valve when your wanted to: potential for big "uh oh" [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...pszofz4iei.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): attach a good bleeder-bottle hose to the nipple and open the valve. CAUTION i've read that if you open the valve TOO far it can start sucking air in along the threads. I'm not sure if this makes sense to me, but it does definitely open up the chance for excess fluid to come out and make a mess. so don't' over-do it, just open it until you see some good flow (1/4-1/2 turn maybe?) (bottom): pay attention as you go along how much you are removing and subtract that amount from what you put in the bottle to start.. that will give you a good estimate (unless there is a leak somewhere) as to how much fluid you have remaining in your pressure bleeder. also, in this style bottle make sure you leave enough room in the top of the bottle for the hose to drain into it when you disconnect from your caliper to prevent spillage. (if you are doing the pump-pump-hold method, this is where you must keep topping off your fluid reservoir, never letting it get empty [i wouldn't even let it get anywhere close to empty]) So now that you've started draining old fluid out, when do you stop? great question and i don't know the BEST answer to it. I stopped after roughly 1/4 of my fluid came through the rear passenger caliper which is when the fluid also looked quite clear (earlier, you could see little flakes an lots of tiny bubbles. i'll periodically close the valve, thump on the caliper a few times with a rubber mallet, my hand, or something else to loosen up bubbles, an re-open the valve to release debris/bubbles that may have been clinging to the walls or in nooks/crannies. As you work your way from caliper to caliper, you'll need to remove less and less fluid before it runs clear. You'll also need to make sure you keep the pressure on the power bleeder up (i stayed 15-20psi, but read the instructions on the bottle of your unit!) [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psxbukw6i2.jpg[/IMG] Above: when you make your way to the front, make sure you do the inside AND outside of each brake caliper. [IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...psm9zjmtkb.jpg[/IMG] Above (top): (some DIY videos don't show this step, but it's on the bottle) the last step before disconnecting the power bleeder (on my unit) is to tilt it over so the pick-up tube sucks air up, slowly bleed the front driver's side (the closest caliper to the brake fluid reservoir). I put a flashlight on the reservoir so i could easily see the brake fluid level. you bleed the valve as you watch fluid come out in your bleed bottle and the air slowly starts to descend within the brake fluid reservoir, stop when your level is at/below the "max" indicator. depressurize the system by opening the BOTTLE FIRST (with my unit) and only then remove the other end of the power bleeder form the car's reservoir. reversing this order could make a very big mess. put the lid on the brake fluid reservoir. swing the plastic cover back into place, you'll see a couple tabs that need to be slid in a certain way to make it secure, then put selective pressure on it while you rotate the plastic bolts (x3) to lock it back in place. (bottom): make sure you pump your brakes a lot when you get in the car, don't just turn the car on and try to drive off it takes a few pumps to pressurize the system that's another one i learned the had way (e46 m3 backed out of the garage and took off down the driveway int our 2013 328i that only had 8k miles on the clockoops!). vacuum your car if it is dirty like mine... and make sure to torque down your wheel lug bolts (102.5 lb/ft (corresponding w/the 14x1.25 bolts) - confirmed by BMW per gsrbri, thanks!) slowly test your brakes out and be sure to bed them in according to the manufacturer's recommendations. I hope this helps some people! good luck and be safe! additional resources: __________________ Gone but not forgotten: '09 STi // '08 335i // '02 M3 // '11 335i // '15 M3 // '16 M3 // '16 Camaro SS // '16 Audi S3 // '18 Boxster 718S // '17 Camaro SS 1LE // '16 M6 GC CP Last edited by evanescent03; 06-01-2015 at 09:17 PM..
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