Quote:
Originally Posted by M4TW
Orrrrrrr ... you can simply have a gander at the handy dandy wear indicators described in the service bulletins mentioned in the very first post in this thread. Pitting and cracks are a concern, but you can inspect for this without having to remove the wheels by looking and then rolling the car forward and looking some more.
By your standard, you should disassemble the engine after heavy use to check for damage too. Because the engine is important. Just to be safe.
Yes, there is a concern about pitting and chips with these brakes. The same service bulletin seems to suggest that damage from spalling or pitting can be replaced as a defective part during the warranty period. I'm not sure about chips but I happen to think that most vehicle comprehensive policies should cover it, if warranty does not.
We do not have a good data set on problems with chips yet because, in spite of all the fear, loathing and alarms, there do no seem to be any reported problems of this nature with the F8x CCB's. At least not yet. The only reported problem, as far as I know, has to be with the narrow gap between the callipers and the wheel drum with standard 19" rims, where stones can get lodged and scratch the wheels.
Meanwhile, there have been some bad experiences reported at the track and spirited driving with the conventional brakes. Not that they are unexpected.
Melted my stock brake pads in 90 miles
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1117355
Stock brakes severe letdown
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1028958
F80 M3 brake judder
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1038273
Brake callipers changing from blue to green due to overheating
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1115447
Granted, the CCB's may be overkill with their larger diameter rotors, additional pistons etc given the available tire friction. But it is not a bad area in which to be over-engineered, no?
Besides they look great, have no brake dust, and provide great pick-up lines when trying to impress the ladies.  |
the stock steel brakes work fine. properly cooling them down helps with street pad material transferring and getting stuck. the oem pad is okay on track which i definitely tested but its designed for the street and proper endurance pads for a 3000+ lb street car really make it sing. the best thing about steel rotors is you have many many options in pads to fit your needs. the calipers discolor from heat and i have seen that on just about every caliper out there over the years. even mighty pccb calipers. the yellow on them turns to a more faded yellow. the color doesn't affect the performance however.
from my experience. if the engine fails you don't go. if the brakes fail you can't stop. i will decide which of those components i'm most concerned with.
measuring the thickness give you an idea of how quickly they wear down. not so much of a safety factor there but for me the ceramics on my car were expensive and I wanted to see the effects of tracking. you don't want to wait until the wear circles are visible. think how that affects resale for one.
the fact is the steel brakes work well on this car and you have the usual myriad of pad choices to compliment the type of environment you want to be driving in. what choice do you have on ceramics? and if there is any sign of premature wear on ceramics what dealership is going to cover the cost of servicing them for you? bmw doesn't warrant the car or any of its components the second it touches a track. the most expensive wearable component to service is the ceramic rotors. no they don't last longer than steels to the point they justify their costs. and they certainly aren't has hardy as steel. just be extra careful every time you change out your wheels.