Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell
The rear upper control arms pull the top of the wheel in to add negative camber. With this method, you will use a combination of the upper and lower control arm to dial in camber. If you are running an incredibly wide tire, be careful as there are things you don't want to be rubbing on the inside.
Most people set rear camber solely by adjusting the rear lower control arm via the eccentric bolt. You can get around -2.7ish camber (depending on your ride height) with a rear toe of zero. You can also add toe arm adjustment links for more toe adjustment.
My preference is to get a rear lower control arm lock-out shim (which deletes the eccentric bolt) and get rear adjustable toe arms. I prefer not to add adjustable things if I don't need to.
There are many ways to get the camber needed for the rear… pick your configuration.
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Do you have the Fall Line shim kit? If so, does it work as intended?
I'm looking to do the same, ie, keep things minimum, as I can currently get the alignment I want in the rear with OEM adjustment (-1.6 camber, slight toe in) but worried the eccentrics may slip so have been trying to decide on which toe arms to go with and if I should opt for the fall line shim kit as well. Prefer to get it all done this winter since there's decent sales going on. Another option is to wait and keep everything OEM and do a couple of DEs next year and check alignment and see if it indeed slips on the F80 chassis.
May do SPL or Fall Line (haven't decided on Fall Line with the rubber boots or just SPL with the exposed rod ends, have had good experience with SPL in the past) toe arms + lock out, and the Fall Line shim kit before cyber monday ends.