Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunnny
I disagree, it will make a difference because it has a detergent in it. So it cleans as it lubricates. And, it cleans everything it goes along, pistons, rods, lifters, plugs, ect..
A mechanic of +50 years proved this to me last year when he bought a 7-series that didnt run, and sat in a yard for 4 years. Didn't need to take apart the engine to solve the sticky lifter's issue he had. The oil he cycled the first time came out looking like gravy, but the second time, it looked clear/clean. It cleaned the engine and it runs fine now after it's been running for some time now.
Factory oil is just a step up from the stuff on the gas station shelf.
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What are you talking about... Stop spreading misinformation. Disagree all you want but you are using an opinion and what you heard from your dads buddy who drove a tractor for 300km... how does that compare to a Direct injection turbo engine? Now you use an example of a dead 7 series that sat on the lot for who knows how long with an oil change that was last done finally after x amount of miles? And what was it originally filled with? See my issue with your examples?
BMW factory fill doesn't have detergents to clean like your amsoil recommendation? Please look up the specs for BMW LL-01. All LL-01 spec'd oil has detergents in it! As does any other "LL oil" from BMW such as LL-04 / LL-01FE etc. Long life oil without detergents is asking for it. Old BMWs that used drain intervals of 15,000 miles probably won't do so hot. 5000-8,000 mile oil changes and LL-01 oil is just fine.
LL-01 oils are typically API SN SM SL. Here is a quote from bimmerworld to show indeed these oils have detergents:
"API SN. Intended for 2007+ gasoline direct injection cars with ceramic catalytic converters instead of metallic cats. As large amounts of zinc and phosphate (ZDDP) and carbon ash (SAPS) are harmful to the ceramic material, they have been replaced with other additives. More
detergentshave been added to prevent carbon and sludge build-up (see the section below on Direct Injection engines). This is not bad oil for these engines and if you still have factory cats this is the oil rating you should be using. Bonus points if the bottle carries a Mercedes 229.5 (MB229.5) approval as Mercedes standards are among the highest of OE manufacturers. If you need extra protection for track use or aggressive driving, switch to a thicker viscosity.
API SM. 2005-2010 models but this doesn't really apply to BMW. Use an SN oil for a car that retains all of its factory equipment.
API SL. 2005 or older. Many people consider SL to be the last "good oil" before ZDDP levels were reduced. We recommend an SL oil for pretty much all cars built before the E90 generation: E85, E83, E63, E60, E53, E46, E39, E38, Z3, E36, E34, and E32. It can be used in E30 and older models too but only in thicker viscosity. These cars can use an SN oil but SL is much more appropriate. It can also be used in newer cars (E9X, F3X, etc) that have had cats removed (such as race cars) or street cars converted to metallic cats. The higher ZDDP levels will be advantageous in aggressive driving."
VW 502 / Porsche A40 / Mercedes 229.5.. Oils that typically have LL01 also pass these other specs. Look up these specs and what torture tests these oils go under in order to pass this "minimum spec". They have to pass certain cleanliness, vapor loss, wear tests, maintain certain oil viscosity level, be sheer stable to a certain point, etc etc etc.
Amsoil 0w40 vs Castrol 0w40 vs BMW 5w30 won't make a difference at all if changed on similar schedule. All 3 carry detergents! Don't buy into brand and hearsay of 300km tractors. Please look up these specs for oil on BITOG for more info and compare used oil analysis there and the abundance of information for oil education there.