Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric
Quote:
Originally Posted by papasmurf_m3
I've been following the spread of misinformation and fear mongering. So, I will weigh in my thoughts as a person who has built racing engines, tuned cars on my dyno, raced on a competitive level, & built many fast cars when I owned a shop. (BTW It was fun. But, I don't miss the shop life)
Take this with a grain of salt. It's just 1 guys opinion that is based on factual information, first and second hand experience, talking with my buddies who are E85 tuned stock hubs, talking with people who slipped. etc... But, you all know what they say about opinions.
Is this crank hub thing real? Yes, It is. But, that does not mean every car is a ticking time bomb. No, not even close to it. It comes down to how you are driving the car. Nobody has answers and people think it's this or that. Or the year or manual or dct. So let me explain.
I believe this is due to 2 simple things. High torque and low rpm. When you have massive torque at 2000 rpm that is what causes the bolt to back out and that loss of torque on the hub will allow the timing chain sprocket to slip. And it's a slip not spinning freely 360 degrees. It's ok to have high torque at higher rpm because the engine is spinning faster. But, not so much at low rpm. It's fun though. But, no bueno for that bolt from backing out.
Think about it logically for a moment. The timing sprocket is under load with heavy boost and cylinder pressures. Do you think the cylinder pressures are enough to hulka-maniac it's way through a fully torqued factory crank bolt? Like raaaawr & just take out your entire motor, just like that.... Really? I can see if the bolt backs out and you lose torque. But, not if it's fully torqued. Get outta here with that.
If you are tuned or even w/ high torque of the E85 and running stock crank hub. Just do these things to avoid an issue:
No burnouts, no doughnuts, no kickdowns, no launching, no downshift UNDER high torque. Lift of the gas and downshift all you want. Don't rip the car at low engine speeds and high torque. Get on it from a 50 roll 60 roll all day long. Have fun with rolls and higher speeds all day. Just be mindful.
If you wanna send it, If you are going 600 700 800 whp and a lot of torque, wanna do burnouts etc then just do a crank hub fix. They are all really good. They all do the same thing. It's the labor cost that will kill your wallet. That VTT V2 looks like a good option though. Because, it installs so easily. Much easier then the 2 or 4 pin. If they all do the same. Then my logic says. Go with the path of least resistance. Lighter on the wallet and simpler installation makes the most sense. 2 pin 4 pin are great too. Just a lot more work and messy. They work just fine too. It's your preference.
If you're stock, just send it! You're fine. Your motor is not going to blow up at any second. Get outta here with that too. But, I would be mindful.
Valves don't bend because of pistons hitting them. They bend from intake valve colliding with them. Then when bent enough the pistons comes up and snaps it off eventually. But, that can only really happen from very bad valve float and under extreme conditions.
I've seen some shops crank the bolt over and over when the car comes in with slipped hub. Why?? That is causing more damage. I would not do that. If the car is out of time. Don't do that. Just fix it.
For context. My car is stock. I'm just waiting for my parts to arrive. Probably stage 2 Ecutek e85 max effort tune to start things off. I drive the car and enjoy it. I have launched it before. Yes, I take it to canyons and backroads and really put this car through its paces as an all around sports sedan. The car see's a lot of 40 & 60 rolling start races. I have burned out a few times. As of lately I follow my guideline to the T.
I plan to run crank hub fix. Only because, I plan to send it with bigger turbos. So, i will do them at the same time. Most likely it will stay on stock turbos and follow the guidelines till then.
I'm going with the VTT V2 crank hub fix for it's quality. It works perfectly under high stress, easy to install and the most cost effective. No brainer.
I'm not ripping on any shops or companies. I'm just an enthusiast and just sick of every other post about the same thing. All this fear mongering and people genuinely getting stressed about their cars. That sucks & I think it's blown out of proportion.
If you're going to send it. Just put one on. Any of them. it doesn't matter. They all do the same thing.
(Was trying to edit some grammar and I accidentally deleted some stuff. I don't remember right now lol But, ya. This is the gist of it.)
Just my 2 cents guys.
Cheers,
Max-
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Can you elaborate what a "downshift UNDER high torque" is?
I am really torn between getting a CBC or full fix. I am at good power (no E85 though), 6MT, and I don't do burnouts, floor it at low RPM, etc. But still conerned! |
Do CBC it's cheap fix and will definitely be better then not if your worried.
Downshifting while on the gas in a high torque situation.