[NealfromNZ]

Editing orginal start with final choices,

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1 Mobridge 8.1.1 Most25 amplifier
2 Pairs of focal Es100k components for doors
1 Pair of HK underseat woofers , Now Morel IP-BMWSUB2
1 Boston Acoustic SPG555 subwoofer and Passive radiator trunk sub in 1 cubic foot enclosure.

Most fibre wire from idrive 4.2 to a amplifier
Custom Speaker Loom
Active front Tweeters
Recode from base audio to top hifi
Map DSP and Time Alignment
ID6 hardware retrofit


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Note , whilst I’ve been into building car stereos for 35 years I’m still learning so treat my views as a hobbyist.



Have recently traded an E46 M3 in on a 2016 F80 LCI.

With My e46 I built quite an elaborate audio system with nice components, 8 channel dsp , multi amped and decent sub. Roughly a 1000 rms system in terms of power and time alignment with front bias set around the drivers position.

Going from this to the F80 base audio system as been interesting. Lack of dynamics , irritating active sound design, mid bass over pronounced and no highs. However, what I do like is the uncomplicated arrangement of a few speaker positions in the doors and having potential mid bass 40 hz - 150 hz coming from near the front. Also sounds like the front mid and tweeter locations should give a good sound stage, better positioning than the e46.

Have been reading posts in this excellent site so thank you for those who have imparted knowledge.

Plan

Front stage
Two way components, will run passive crossovers and factory speaker wiring
Tossing up between Gladen 201 Extreme , Focal K2 es100s or possibly audio frog
Replace A pillar trims with BMW hk trims for tweeter mount position

Under-seat woofers

From what I understand is the base audio woofers are only 6.5 inch drivers with an enclosure that is internally smaller than hk / hifi ones ? If so will need to get the bigger hifi / hk version and replace the woofers.

Underseat woofer choice ( undecided )
Focal ibmw v2
Gladen 201 extreme
Audison BMW

Rear Doors
Two way components ( means drilling hole for tweeters :-( )
Either focal or Gladen

Subwoofer
Thinking of reusing my old Boston spg555 and passive radiator in a 1 cubic foot enclosure. Tuned for 23hz f3.

Wiring
Use base stereo wiring for components to doors. ( although I haven’t check wiring gauge yet )
Tweeter / Mid / Crossover wiring in doors
Technic augment wiring for under-seat woofers to make them active
Techinic ASD audio bypass with amp audio output.
Usual heavy gauge for 1000 rms / 2 ohm subwoofer.
Possible Most fibre audio connection

Amps
Thinking of going small footprint class d. 50 -100 wrms for components
100 - 200 wrms for underseat , 600 - 1000 rms on subwoofer. Will use class D for size and power efficiency. The M3 lithium battery has 1/3 less capacity than the usual 90 amp hour AGM ones that I ran before. Also want to hide amps and want to avoid A/B series heat.

6 channel for components and underseat woofers
1 channel subwoofer amp.

Thinking fisher match or mosconi / Gladen pico series for multi channel with built in dsp. Subwoofer amp, some small footprint

Coding

Still learning but my ID4 based IDrive will get recoded to at least “hifi”to use the 2 wire style differential audio outputs and get rid of the nasty base audio boosted audio curves. Ideally would prefer to use digital optical option from the idrive to amp but still learning the pros and cons of adding a Most adapter or DSP.

Music sources, 256g thumb drive with lossless music plugged into usb in centre console , iPhoneX for usual Spotify / Apple Music / iTunes . DVD /cd if needed.

Anyway , this is the starting point.

Below pics is now where the system is at. The rest of these posts is on how I chose and built the system and subsequently DSP tuning and other ramblings.