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[Edited build with rec's from certain highly valued members]
I'm planning a built motor and would like experienced input from those of you that have been through it before. My current motor is at 50K miles and has taken a lot of hard abuse by me over the last 35K miles. The last oil change showed some metal dust on my oil plug magnet, so I'm a little concerned about pushing harder (bigger turbos) without looking inside. My build work will be done by Billy at BMB Autowerks in NJ.
A buddy spun his crank hub but the motor still ran, and he's willing to sell it to me so I can use it as a working core. This way I can get all the building done on the core and then do a motor swap, instead of taking my car completely out of action for a couple weeks.
INTENDED OUTCOME:
Get my 6-speed down to 5sec (5.0) for a 60-130MPH rip, and hopefully see a 10sec quarter mile dig at the dragstrip (and get told to leave!).
PLANNED BUILD:
- Disassemble donor motor, clean and inspect for core quality [was good!]
- Slight mill to deck to assure true flat
- Brush hone the bores (they were hardly worn, no ring notch, crosshatch still showed)
- Polish the journals
- New standard bearings
- BMB 1-piece hub, plus his CBC
- New CP rods & pistons, top and sides coated, stock size and compression.
- BMB head work up, port match
- EoS intake manifold with hand polished runners and port match (by me)
- The bigger EU5 injectors from M5, with aftermarket HPFPs, LPFP and Hobbs switch
- Project Gamma front intake
- BMW flex-fuel (NGK F8S) plugs gapped to 0.021"
- More custom tunes by Paul Johnson, a 93o daily map plus an E85 race map [gurus say consider Halim]
EXISTING EQUIPMENT:
- MST Intakes, Vargas silicone CPs, Wagner TMIC, ER aluminum J-pipe
- Vargas GC turbos with black ceramic coated manifolds (ordered) RETURNED and going w Kratos
- Ceramic coated ARM resonated no-cat DPs, and full 3.5in single AA exhaust
- Signature 11.5in rears with 325/30/19 Toyo R888R
QUESTIONS:
- Any reason not to do the IP 1-piece hub fix, since things will be all apart?
[gurus said do the IP]
- Does anyone have input on using the 0.5mm overbore pistons (no sleeves)? [gurus say don't bore at all, there's a silicon OEM coating in the bores]
- What compression ratio?
gurus say keep stock 10.2:1 for top E85 performance
- Any other special considerations on pistons, like skirt or face coatings?
[gurus said coat face and sides]
- Any benefit from the Schrick cams, or other valvetronic tricks (MILVS)?
[gurus said no to MILV if doing head work, and cams would add to head work but not needed, not doing cam]
- Will the 3.5bar or 4bar TMAP sensors be needed?
[gurus say 4bar sensors needed]
- Since my stock clutch and flywheel are at 50K miles would you replace with a new OEM or a Clutch Masters? [gurus say Spec dual or CM FX1K, doing CM]
- When do driveshafts break? [gurus say they will, and diff too. The '18 manual tranny driveshaft is OEM only, but going with DS axles and a WaveTrac.]
I'm really looking for input from guys who have already done built motors!
-TJ
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