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      04-12-2020, 12:47 AM   #4
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Drives: 2018 F80 M3 ED
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: MD/DC

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laertes View Post
I have both an F82 CP and a '19 GT3RS. Both are used regularly on the track, so I think I can comment fairly accurately.

Really, I think the main determinant of cost is how fast do you want to go? Both cars out of the box are super quick, and if you are new to the track game both on OEM everything will be really fun reliable track cars and you'll be able to keep up with pretty much anything up to the advanced groups. Once you are an advanced driver or instructor you will be going fast enough you will need to upgrade some components and if you enter the speed arms race it gets expensive quickly.

My F82 CP has camber plates, RE10 pads, SRF fluid, a set of 18" Apex wheels running Nitto NT01, and a track alignment. That's it. And it's incredibly fast and can keep up with all but the fastest cars (Porsche GT cars, set up Corvettes, etc). I'm blown away how capable and fun this car is. And the best part is I can fit a whole set of track wheels in the back seat leaving the trunk empty to haul the rest of my gear. And when not in track mode I can put two kid's car seats in the back and take the whole family out for ice cream. It is without a doubt the most versatile track ready car there is.

My RS is a bit more set up but not that much. It has a half cage and harnesses and a set of AP Essex brakes with Ferodo pads with high temp brake fluid. I run the OEM wheels and tires as they are incredibly fast and I don't want to go down the slippery slope that is Hoosiers or slicks as it rapidly spirals into needing a trailer and tow vehicle and a place to store both. That adds to the expense pretty significantly....

The tire expense is where the cars differ significantly. First, a set of 18" NT01 for the M4 are (or were; I haven't checked pricing lately) about $1150. And they can be run to the cords. I get about 8-10 days out of a set and I'm not lollygagging around the track.

The RS, on the other hand, is about $2000 for a set of Sport Maxx Race 2 or Sport Cup 2. And they only last 3-5 days. They drop off between days 2 and 3, and by day 5 they are done. Actually, if you're going for lap times or trying to keep up with your fast buddies they're done after 4, but I don't mind having a day sliding around a bit at the end so I can get them to go 5. Going through tires faster is also a lot more expensive because you have to pay for a mount and balance all that much more frequently, plus the hassle of getting the car to a tire shop (and one that can handle center lock wheels in the case of the RS).

Brake pad use is pretty similar, and since I'm using RE10s in the M4 ($$$) I would say the cost is similar. The M4 is heavier and that definitely increases the brake pad wear, but the RS is just faster which probably evens that out. The RS brakes are obviously better, but I've never had any issues with the M4 on the RE10s on the OEM calipers and steel rotors. There will be a bit of fade on tracks that beat on brakes (Laguna Seca, for example) but you work around that. I would say a set of pads for both cars last a season. I know most pads for the F82 won't last that long, but the RE10s have pretty ridiculous longevity. It compensates somewhat for the cost.

Maintenance for both cars is pretty much the same in terms of what needs to be done. A track inspection, brake flush, and oil change at the beginning of the season, and another oil change half way through the season. I have to admit I haven't looked into the need for gearbox oil for either car (my F82 is DCT) but in my old 997 RS with a manual I would do a gearbox oil change at the beginning of the season too. Oil changes for the M4 are definitely cheaper; my local Porsche dealer charges $500 for an oil change, but that's ridiculous and so I take it to a local race shop and they do it (and put in better oil) for about $250.

The other thing to think about is depreciation. The Porsche starts out a lot more expensive, but in the GT car world a lot of these cars are tracked and so there isn't a big hang up from buyers about buying a tracked GT car second hand. You won't get as much as an untracked garage queen would (but you've also had a LOT more fun than the garage queen guy has...) but there are plenty of buyers out there who want a tracked GT car as long as it's been treated and maintained well. I suspect most people with M4s that have been tracked but not irreversibly modified take them back to stock upon selling and try to downplay the track history. Depending on how you feel about the ethics of this, it will definitely reduce the depreciation. Plus, GT cars in general hold their value pretty well (my 997 RS actually appreciated after 7 years and a bunch of track time), but as Porsche ups the production numbers this is less likely to be true. I don't expect my 991.2 GT3RS to appreciate.

So I guess the TL;DR answer is: The big difference is tires. And the difference is pretty significant.

Of course, if you really start chasing the dragon and go all in on mods, then it's a whole different kettle of fish. And you can spend as much as you want modifying either car so that's a whole different discussion.

Hope that helps....
This a great comparison, helps a lot! Thank you.

Depreciation is tricky. My friend had a 991.1 GT3 RS and between the $250k purchase price and the $180k value at the end, it basically depreciated a whole F80. Most likely less so with a GT3 or GTS.

My experience with the F80 mirrors yours. I’ve graduated into Advanced over the past 2 years in most track outfits, so it’s fair to say I’m not hanging about, but far from the fastest guy. Chasing laptimes is meaningful to me in terms of self improvement mostly, and I realize the GT3RS I pass on track is either a less experienced driver, or someone who pays attention to the value of the car.

I’m tempted to do the suspension since I’ve never had a “proper” suspension on any of my cars and my race shops likes the Ohlins for a dual purpose car.

When my Nittos die (assuming the track season restarts at all this year) I’ll switch to RE71R, I hear good words about them. And I’ll definitely look into a set of RE10 pads, thank you for the tip.

Would you mind sharing where you buy these?
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2018 F80 Santorini
2019 Z4 3.0i
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