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Originally Posted by tom @ eas
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopggo
Actually now that I think about it - that is what I bought, and not the name brand tap. But at the time I definitely checked the power with a multimeter and it just wasn't producing enough voltage hence my search for more power sources. I checked the exposed terminal solder joints on top of digging down to the wire connectors I was trying to tap into.
So I can't comment on differences with the Amazon link you sent vs. the original one...but yeah sorry for naming the 'name brand'!
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MY16 doesn't have any difference in mirror wiring than 2015. I've had a few people bring in their own mirrortap harnesses, they've been hit or miss on making a good connection as they're just temporary needleprobes that need to be secured by a ziptie. It's much easier (and less costly) to tap into the wiring as in our DIY.
One thing that may be happening is using the wrong scotchlocks, since most detectors include blue scotchlocks. Blue scotchlocks are intended for 16-18AWG wire and may not properly pierce the jacket on the mirror's smaller gauge wiring and get a good bite.
Make sure the red scotchlocks are used in order to get a good bite on the smaller 18-22AWG wires. |
Can't stress enough that there was not enough power. Your guide was great and followed to a T, and everybody really appreciates the time you took to put it up.
The issue was not enough voltage, verified with a meter at a few points - particularly at the exposed solder portion, where you just can't miss the wire or incorrectly seat the multimeter tip. I'm sure many people have incorrectly seated their tap before and I wish that was my case, as it could have been fixed in a minute vs. lots of time diagnosing a mystery. Actually come to think of it I was assuming that was the case and spent too much time, leading me to get the multimeter and verify.
Thanks Tom for all you do - this is no way to put down your guide.