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      04-22-2015, 07:12 AM   #87
Lieutenant Colonel

Drives: 4 wheels
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NorCal

iTrader: (1)

Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Great point with the tires.

Yes Cal Speedway in August. From my limited experience, in extreme conditions (fast track with hard braking zones and long track sessions) the CCB's should perform better. I have warped my StopTech rotors in these situations. Was never a safety issue but still disappointing.

If I ordered an M3/4 I would not opt for the CCB's unless I was made of money for the convenience of not having to change pads/rotors. I don't think the benefit, which is likely limited to the situation I described above, makes them "worth it".
What pads were you running with your stoptechs? if they were the ones that came with a kit likely they were street pads and you melted them onto the rotors. stoptech rotors don't warp. ccb's don't perform better at least not measurably.

actually with california speedway if you are at a decent speed with the f80 you probably will probably wear down your oem pads noticeably by sunday. i recommend a good cool down lap regardless of which rotors you run. the steel brakes with carbotechs have a much better modulation and release characteristics than ccb's with oem pads.

pad change is so easy on this car. pop the two pins swap. takes about 10 minutes per corner for me. good luck trying to get oem ccb pads replaced under maintenance so early. that highly depends on your relationship with the dealer. ccb's for is what your list of things to do before and after track day with ccb's

1. jack up car, remove wheel. I recommend a wheel hangar so you don't accidently drop the wheel on the rotor. lift the car only barely enough for you to slide the wheel off without it dropping.
2.use digital caliper and measure rotor thickness. record in log book.
3. inspect front and back of rotor surface for cracks or chips.
4. check brake pads. if they are less than the thickness of the backing plate they need to be replaced. thinner than that and they heat up more further accelerating wear on the friction layer of the rotor.
5. clear out all vent holes in rotors.
6. carefully remount wheel lower then torque
7. check torque again after rolling

bring your jack and everything else you need to remove the wheels to the track. you may need to inspect if you go off, a rock flies in the wheel, you hear any noise in the wheel area.

continue to monitor brake pad thickness throughout the day. visually check front side of rotor for any odd discoloration or damage.

after you get home repeat all the steps above to record new thickness and make sure front and back side of rotors are intact.

tracking requires serious attention to your vehicle and the tires/brakes are the most important systems on the car. so you do inspect steel rotors as well but you don't have to worry about them getting chipped or cracked easily. you can drop your wheel on them accidentally when you are tired. check for cracks joining more than 2 holes on rotor surface. swap to endurance pads. you can ride them until the wear sensor goes off and beyond but i generally don't like the added heat in the hubs so i also change when they are the width of the backing plate. but then they don't wear down nearly as fast as the soft ccb pads do.

overall its much less work running steel rotors. if thats the reason you wanted ccb's you are in for a surprise. you bought the car with them on it already. like i said. if you track the car regularly shelve the ceramics and go to a decent steel rotor. PFC would be my first call.
"It gave you amazing satisfaction, but anyone who says he loved it is either a liar or he wasn't going fast enough." - Jackie Stewart on racing at the Nurburgring