DIY: Exhaust Cam ledge Bolt Replacement

[F80manz]

This is a fix for a knocking sound that increases with engine RPM which occurs approximately 2-3 minutes after cold start and persists until the engine is warm.

If the sound persists past warm, you may have another issue or you let this issue exist for too long.

Everything you need:

Cam Ledge Bolts:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...70-11127535024

Spark Plug Well Gasket:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-11127589830

Injector Consumables:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-13537577649
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ch-13537591006

Injector Seal Tool:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ol-83300496668

(there is also a tool to remove old injector seals. I just used some plastic snips and was careful to not gouge the metal on the injector. That tool is listed here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...90-83300495756 )

Injector Removal Tool:

(You can use the original tool)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mover-cta-7658

Or if you're cheap get this slide hammer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6PVJR7T...roduct_details

Torque Angle Meter:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/tor...er-lisle-28100

Valve Cover Gasket:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-11127587804


Generic Tools
- Misc E torx and torx sockets
- socket wrench
- low torque torque wrench
- Clean towels to cover intake pipes
- Open Wrenches

Optional: (Valve cover as preventative maintenance)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...vaico-v20-4684

In the video I used the Vader Solutions valve cover. This does have a removable panel to make it a 's55 valve cover' but I found you just need to cut the middle section of that off for everything to go on properly. Charge pipes will not fit with the vader solutions valve cover unmodified. If the vacuum chamber is removed, then the injector cables do not have a place to sit.


Torque Specs:

Cam Ledge Bolts: 8Nm / 70.81 in-lb + 60 degrees

Injector Well: 9Nm / 79.66 in-lb

Fuel Rail Lines: Snug but able to be removed with a wrench

Injector bracket: 13Nm / 115.06 in-lb

Valve Cover (Bolts 1-2): 8.5Nm / 75.23 in-lb

Valve Cover (Bolts 3-26: 9Nm / 79.66 in-lb

Aluminum Brace: 28Nm / 20.65 lb-ft

Carbon Brace: 28Nm / 20.65 lb-ft

Steps:

1. Remove Valve Cover (I skip to here because there are plenty of tutorials on how to do this.) However, I do have a few notes. This can be done without emptying the air to water intercooler as I explain in the video. Just disconnect the hose clamp to the J pipe, the charge pipes, and pop it out of the grommets. You may disconnect the hose holder at the front of the engine bay to get a little more movement. wait approximately 2 hours after disconnecting the battery for the fuel lines to lose pressure. Use a face shield to prevent gas from getting into your eyes.

2. Remove Injector wells with 2 torx bolts each

3. Remove exhaust cam bolts one by one and replace them. This process should go like this: Remove bolt 1, place new bolt 1, torque to torque listed above, add angle, remove bolt 2, place new bolt 2, etc until you finish all 15 bolts.

4. Reassemble engine, MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR FUEL LEAKS

Video:

Torque Patterns:

Valve Cover (R118308)
Cam Ledge Bolts (R118277)

[mapster37]

How did you come to this conclusion?

[F80manz]

Originally Posted by mapster37

How did you come to this conclusion?

Reading a lot on the forums. This issue is pretty well documented and it sounded exactly like everyone's that had the and problem. Found one guy that said he DIYd it by replacing each bolt one by one, as I did.

Fwiw, I went to an Indy shop from my area and the mechanic who's pretty well trusted told me there's no issues. Obviously he was incorrect.