09-06-2014, 01:10 PM | #45 | |
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Also, drilled rotors are generally more prone to cracking so many will suggest slotted as a better option. However, unless you are tracking very heavily, there shouldn't be an issue in my experience.
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09-06-2014, 01:28 PM | #46 | |
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The good news is BMW made it easy to swap pads with the F8X... which was less so the case with the E9X... so it's an hour of work before a track day and an hour after to swap the track pads in and out.
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09-06-2014, 02:26 PM | #47 |
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09-08-2014, 07:21 AM | #48 | |
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09-08-2014, 07:38 AM | #49 | |
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Iron rotors of the size offered on the F8X are are very robust and therefore extremely unlikely to warp. However, as posted multiple times in this thread, pad deposit is very often confounded with warped rotors, even by "professional shops". See the very good article in the Stoptech webpage referenced in post #3. Note that I did use the words "most likely" though, so I did not present it as an absolute . |
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09-09-2014, 12:41 AM | #50 | ||
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if the f80 brakes are of the push the pin out and slide the pad out type holy that would be fast as heck! |
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09-09-2014, 07:42 PM | #51 | |
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1) ...not uneven brake wear, but rather put more stress on the brake system (read more heat) which can lead to more uneven pad deposit and premature fade. 2) ...applying hot brakes while car is stationary or moving slowly will not warp the rotors but rather put a "blotch" of pad material (to use your wording ) on the disc leading to uneven pad deposit on the disc ... applying the e-brake will not have any impact because the e-brake on the F8X is a separate drum/shoe setup inside the disc hub (as it was on the E46 and E9X). Last edited by CanAutM3; 09-09-2014 at 08:47 PM.. |
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09-12-2014, 12:43 PM | #52 |
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Nobody knows for sure but: It is common knowledge that BMW replaced many rotors they thought were warped. I believe this was a mistake as most of us that have driven hard on the back roads or at the track with OEM street pads will get some significant vibrations/surging under braking. Slap in some race pads and that all goes away. The cold race pad will scrape the oem pad material off. No warp just oem pad deposits.
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09-22-2014, 12:00 AM | #53 | |
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anyway, i've dealt with pad deposit issues several times with e46 M3 and Hawk HP Plus pads, really frustrating because i was convinced i did the bed-in process correctly and everything. hopefully i don't have similar issues with the F80 … that shudder is like nails on a chalk board! |
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09-22-2014, 06:15 AM | #54 | |
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As far as cracked rotors go, yes two of my track buddies with Corvette's crack their rotors 2 to 3 times per season. On the other hand, I have yet to crack a single rotor in 180+ track days with both my ///M cars. With drilled rotors, you will see some cracking around the crossdrill holes. This is normal, but need to monitor those cracks. If cracks reach from one hole to another or even worse a crack reaches to the outer edge of the disc, then it is time to replace the disc. So far I always have needed to replace my rotors due to wear and not cracks though. |
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09-22-2014, 07:08 AM | #55 | |
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good explanation, thanks! i'll definitely be looking at different pads this time around. some tracks i didn't have much of an issue with the HP+ but other tracks i noticed a lot of pad deposit. i haven't used drilled rotors before, but am aware of the small cracks turning into larger cracks so that's something i'll be monitoring. thanks again! |
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09-22-2014, 07:31 AM | #56 | |
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If only there was a PFC fitment for the F82! |
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09-22-2014, 09:41 AM | #57 |
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Just fyi, I got a new set of rotors and put carbotechs on them. Did not do any crazy bedding in, just drove to track and then on it. No issues what so ever.
I think Pagid RSL1s are just finicky about proper bedding and left ton of deposits on the rotors.
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09-22-2014, 09:51 AM | #58 |
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Did you have to buy the rotors?
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09-23-2014, 10:07 AM | #59 | |
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09-23-2014, 11:23 AM | #60 | |
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Not saying bedding them in per instructions is a waste. I just think it's unnecessary for the avg. joe. I base my experience on many sets of PFCs 08s and now a set of Carbotechs that I've used over the years. Perhaps it's critical for Pagids, first time I ever had rotor issues after just one session.
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09-23-2014, 11:34 AM | #61 |
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P.S. Most bedding-in instructions suggest several consecutive hard stops from 90mph+ to 30, with as quick acceleration back to 90 between them as possible.
I am yet to find a place where you can do that safely. It's definitely not on the street or highway. Most tracks don't allow this kind of stuff in the paddock or surrounding areas either. So even if you were bedding them in, you'd be doing it on track during practice. Which is basically what regular DE is And, if during DE or practice, officials saw a car speeding up to 90 than braking hard to 30, for no reason other than to bed-in pads, I am sure it would get black flagged.
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09-24-2014, 10:17 AM | #62 |
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Did you use any tools to spread the pads in the caliper, or was it easy enough to do by squeezing by hand? Want to make sure I don't scratch the paint on the caliper...
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09-24-2014, 11:51 AM | #63 |
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Just pressed really hard on the pads (one thumb on top of the pad, one at the bottom)
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09-27-2014, 07:09 PM | #64 | |
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But you gotta use your man-hands. If that should fail (pshh, it's never happened to me), a c-clamp of the right size would do the trick. |
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09-29-2014, 08:45 PM | #65 |
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No C clamp on the F8x because it's a monoblock caliper that stays on while changing the pads. Just press firmly with the old pad in place on those metal tab things. If that doesn't work you can use a big flat head and press carefully on the piston(s) itself prying against he rotors.
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09-29-2014, 11:53 PM | #66 | |
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Thanks for the assist! |
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