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      10-12-2021, 08:14 PM   #1761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure View Post
Thoughts on removing face helmet shield? Any reason to keep it attached?
The driving with the windows down rule at HPDE in the US is such an archaic rule. I have been black flagged for having literally a sliver of my drivers window showing. I normally have my visor up with sunglasses on. The open widows create so much drag and buffeting for no reason.

I'm sure everyone would gain half a second at least with windows up
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      10-12-2021, 08:55 PM   #1762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaver View Post
The driving with the windows down rule at HPDE in the US is such an archaic rule. I have been black flagged for having literally a sliver of my drivers window showing. I normally have my visor up with sunglasses on. The open widows create so much drag and buffeting for no reason.

I'm sure everyone would gain half a second at least with windows up
I try to open an extra sliver of the rear windows to reduce the buffeting.
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      10-12-2021, 09:03 PM   #1763
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Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
If there's an accident, the OLEDs are the least of our concerns. And the cars are insured for every day they do.

The water injection reduces IAT and thermal stress on the engine. Without water the GTS is a ZCP, but it will always run with water

In E9Xs, it is now possible to read what tunes have in them and as expected, plenty have all kinds of crazy shit like disabled adaptations, forced timing, etc etc. I expect F8X tunes to be the same.

Also, remember wear is exponentially related to track time. You can probably do 50k track miles on a F8X at a 2:20 VIR laptime. At 2:10, much fewer. At 2:05, even fewer. At 2:00, you can expect to be replacing the engine every couple seasons.

Once you go through a couple engines, three S65s in our case, you start to be more sensitive to this stuff. And keep in mind that your current spark plug durability is based on your previous times, now that you are going under 2:10 you will see something very different.
In 7k miles our spark plugs weren't just 'bad', they were able to throw CELs and enough combustion got past them to destroy two coils. We plan on doing this every 5k miles in the future.

We strongly favor sedans as well, but once you are crossing 160mph in VIR for example you start thinking a half cage is useful and once you add that the sedan becomes less useful.

In 2018 we could find cheap F8Xs for 35k, during the pandemic that has gone up to almost 50k for a bottom of the barrel car.
Appreciate the wisdom and info.

I think the S55 has more headroom for tuning and I hope at least the smaller gains (like Stage 1) should not be hard on the engine. Or maybe I’m fooling myself.

Then again, I met a guy at PittRace with a 2015 M4 with a bunch of Dinan goodies, local NCC BMW guy, he had 133k miles on that thing and still running strong.

I’ll replace the spark plugs on my car next season, preventively. I think it’s a pretty simple procedure.
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      10-12-2021, 10:34 PM   #1764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerboyE92 View Post
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Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
If you drive with windows down on the track then you're bound to have something fly in the car and hit you in the cheek or eye if it hasn't happened already.

Not to mention the shield has fire protection benefits, but I doubt you're wearing a fire suit so that bit is likely moot.

I'd keep it and learn how to drive with the shield down.
I’ve had a clump of dirt hit my chin. Also plenty of rubber marbles. I always drive with the visor down.

Visor down folks!
Although I haven't had anything hit my face/helmet, I've felt things hit my arm/shoulder during my first track day (and my group wasn't even going that fast). Convinced me to keep visor down, though I do have it cracked slightly for some air at time.
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      10-14-2021, 09:15 AM   #1765
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Given the tire shortages I am thinking of purchasing Nankang CR-1 (200TW) which I would mount on Apex EC7's 18x10" ET25 // 18x11 ET44.

Tire would be 275/35/18 and 315/30/18. Phil's Tire Service says these run more true to size than the AR-1's which are smaller.

On stock suspension currently. Does anyone know if I will experience chub rub with the the 315's?

FWIW, Phil's also told me the CR-1 is a faster tire than the 100TW AR-1.
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      10-14-2021, 09:24 AM   #1766
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I run 285/315 CR-1"s on 10/11" rims with no issues, im on coilovers with 3.5/2.2 degrees of camber though.

CR-1's are on par with the AR-1's and last longer, phenomenal grip for a 200tw tire
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      10-14-2021, 09:40 AM   #1767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HA55L3R View Post
I run 285/315 CR-1"s on 10/11" rims with no issues, im on coilovers with 3.5/2.2 degrees of camber though.

CR-1's are on par with the AR-1's and last longer, phenomenal grip for a 200tw tire
What is your LapTime delta?
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      10-14-2021, 09:51 AM   #1768
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What is your LapTime delta?
I was .5 seconds quicker on AR-1's but it was also around 15 degrees colder that day
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      10-14-2021, 09:59 AM   #1769
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Ha55ler,

What cold and hot pressure are you running on the CR1?
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      10-14-2021, 10:11 AM   #1770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
Ha55ler,

What cold and hot pressure are you running on the CR1?
I usually start around 27-29 cold but it depends on the track and time of year.

What works best for me is 38 hot all around, sometimes 36 in the rear to help with oversteer.

I've tried running them lower at 32-35 but the outer edges in the front get destroyed real quick
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      10-14-2021, 11:47 AM   #1771
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Thanks Ha55l3r.

I was telling SheerDrivingPleasure that I was targeting 35/36 hot and that worked great in 70 degree weather, but as soon as I ran those pressures in warmer weather the tires overheated and became greasy.

The guys running AR1s claim they run at 31 hot so I thought about trying that, which would likely be 25 or less cold, but you're saying you tried 32-35 and the outer became destroyed.

I guess if I run them in November and its 50 to 60 degrees, I can likely target 35/36 like I did in the past and they should perform well without overheating.
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      10-14-2021, 01:39 PM   #1772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
Thanks Ha55l3r.

I was telling SheerDrivingPleasure that I was targeting 35/36 hot and that worked great in 70 degree weather, but as soon as I ran those pressures in warmer weather the tires overheated and became greasy.

The guys running AR1s claim they run at 31 hot so I thought about trying that, which would likely be 25 or less cold, but you're saying you tried 32-35 and the outer became destroyed.

I guess if I run them in November and its 50 to 60 degrees, I can likely target 35/36 like I did in the past and they should perform well without overheating.
The 100tw AR-1's stiff sidewall allows lower pressures to be used. I'm guessing the CR-1 doesn't have as stiff of a sidewall so higher pressures are needed to prevent roll over.
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      10-19-2021, 05:02 PM   #1773
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Anyone interested in a full set of PFC11 for stock calipers? 2 light days on them.
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      10-19-2021, 07:13 PM   #1774
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Anyone interested in a full set of PFC11 for stock calipers? 2 light days on them.
PM'd you
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      10-20-2021, 10:35 AM   #1775
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Potentially stupid question, but I just changed spark plugs this past weekend and while reinstalling the charge pipes, one of the hose clamps snapped.

I ordered a new one from the dealer, but they're having issues with supply.

Would it be okay to use a Home Depot clamp as a replacement? I ask because the OEM one has some additional metal on it for reinforcement and the ones at the store do not. Each charge pipe does have two clamps so it would be one OEM one and one from the store potentially.

Have a track day this weekend and dont want the hose coming off...
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      10-20-2021, 10:46 AM   #1776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
Potentially stupid question, but I just changed spark plugs this past weekend and while reinstalling the charge pipes, one of the hose clamps snapped.

I ordered a new one from the dealer, but they're having issues with supply.

Would it be okay to use a Home Depot clamp as a replacement? I ask because the OEM one has some additional metal on it for reinforcement and the ones at the store do not. Each charge pipe does have two clamps so it would be one OEM one and one from the store potentially.

Have a track day this weekend and dont want the hose coming off...
Is your track weekend at WGI by chance?

I'd use one oem and a large-ish home depot one until you can get a new oem
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      10-20-2021, 11:40 AM   #1777
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LRP on Saturday.

Not going to WGI anymore until I get a better suspension tbh. My car is too floaty thru the esses and I don't have a half cage or harness. Heck, downforce and not suspension may be the only thing that fixes that.

And do you ever run LRP or is it too boring for you? If you have, what times have you ran there?
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      10-20-2021, 12:21 PM   #1778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
LRP on Saturday.

Not going to WGI anymore until I get a better suspension tbh. My car is too floaty thru the esses and I don't have a half cage or harness. Heck, downforce and not suspension may be the only thing that fixes that.

And do you ever run LRP or is it too boring for you? If you have, what times have you ran there?
I don't go to LRP, it's not a good track for M cars in my opinion. WGI/VIR are.
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      10-20-2021, 01:37 PM   #1779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
LRP on Saturday.

Not going to WGI anymore until I get a better suspension tbh. My car is too floaty thru the esses and I don't have a half cage or harness. Heck, downforce and not suspension may be the only thing that fixes that.

And do you ever run LRP or is it too boring for you? If you have, what times have you ran there?
I don't go to LRP, it's not a good track for M cars in my opinion. WGI/VIR are.
funny, MaX PL and I were chit chatting in the LRP paddock recently and I tried to explain why you don't bother driving LRP.

Personally, I love the track (despite the traffic jams). These small tracks definitely favor Miata-type momentum cars which are undoubtedly less fun at the fast tracks that Shadow favors.

When I grow up I want to have a dedicated track car for each circuit.
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      10-20-2021, 04:43 PM   #1780
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Look at this front pad wear after 5 days. These are Ferodo Dsuno.

First two are FR. Ok wear but tapered from one side to the other.

The second two are FL. One tapered but very low and the other completely gone digging into the backing plate.

I've got an old set of these that are half worn. Hopefully they last two more one day events this season. I knew my braking was a bit off that last session last week…
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      10-20-2021, 04:59 PM   #1781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaX PL View Post
Look at this front pad wear after 5 days. These are Ferodo Dsuno.

First two are FR. Ok wear but tapered from one side to the other.

The second two are FL. One tapered but very low and the other completely gone digging into the backing plate.

I've got an old set of these that are half worn. Hopefully they last two more one day events this season. I knew my braking was a bit off that last session last week…
what brakes are you using?
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      10-20-2021, 05:19 PM   #1782
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stock with the Frodo pad.

some dust boots look toast as well but I'm keeping them as is for these last two events.
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