$5000 to blow

[uncle ben]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

My shop was highly skeptical/annoyed when I gave them those instructions but it works. Don't let them talk you out of it.

You are going to love the toe out at the track. The car just loves to turn. The drive home on the street setting feels blah afterwards.

I already saved the text in my files. I’m going to run that exact setup if I can.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

I already saved the text in my files. I’m going to run that exact setup if I can.

Do it, you'll notice the difference!

[uncle ben]

It seems like a lot of people run spl toe links with eccentric lockout. Is this recommended if running stock edc suspension with camber plates? Or is it more for people with coil overs.

[uncle ben]

Another update. Got a great deal on lightly used MCS 2 way suspension kit. Pictures to follow shortly. I’m pretty excited and have a lot of wrenching ahead of me.

Girodisc front rotors
Ferrodo 1:11 pads
Titanium brake shims
Castrol srf
Turner front thrust arm monoballs
Vorshlag camber plates
MCS 2 way

How important is a rear toe arm upgrade?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

Another update. Got a great deal on lightly used MCS 2 way suspension kit. Pictures to follow shortly. I’m pretty excited and have a lot of wrenching ahead of me.

Girodisc front rotors
Ferrodo 1:11 pads
Titanium brake shims
Castrol srf
Turner front thrust arm monoballs
Vorshlag camber plates
MCS 2 way

How important is a rear toe arm upgrade?

No reason, our rear and front arms are all stock, the only upgrade is the front thrust bushing which is nice

Looks like you're doing quite the upgrade, good work!

[uncle ben]

Took me a few days, but I got most everything done for an upcoming track day tomorrow. Only thing I wasn’t able to do was the front thrust arm monoball. Maybe before my next track day. Hope it was all worth it.

Thanks for the help SYT_Shadow. You saved me a lot of headach on the install.

[SYT_Shadow]

I look forward to your impressions! That should be a big change!

[uncle ben]

Overall things went extremely well. The car felt very balanced. It was more eager to turn in to corners and the rear of the car was easy to rotate with either brakes or throttle.

Luckily a few people from last year happened to be here, so I got to compare how i stacked up to them compared to last year. I would say that I’m faster than last year for sure.

Also with the increased camber comes a welcome improvement on tire wear. I no longer wear out just the outside shoulder of my tires. Nice even temp across the whole tire face.

I’m currently running the dampners in the recommended starting position of 8 comp/ 8 rebound.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

Overall things went extremely well. The car felt very balanced. It was more eager to turn in to corners and the rear of the car was easy to rotate with either brakes or throttle.

Luckily a few people from last year happened to be here, so I got to compare how i stacked up to them compared to last year. I would say that I’m faster than last year for sure.

Also with the increased camber comes a welcome improvement on tire wear. I no longer wear out just the outside shoulder of my tires. Nice even temp across the whole tire face.

I’m currently running the dampners in the recommended starting position of 8 comp/ 8 rebound.

That's good to hear! With upgraded brakes and suspension you have a good foundation to continue getting faster.

You can't focus on your driving if you're worried about the brakes not working or how the suspension will react

[uncle ben]

Other things I noticed was that the rear of the car felt more stable. I only had a couple of times where the rear of the car would step out, but it was easily recovered with throttle modulation.

I could also feel the weight transfer and control it much better. I could apply a little brake before a corner or slight steering input to almost preload that side of the car, transfer the weight, before the actual corner.

I think my next step will be a corner balance and set aside money for more tires and then just enjoy the car.

Currently happy with my 265/35/19 and 285/35/19 Goodyear eagle supercar 3 tires.

[uncle ben]

Ran my second track day. First time using a timer/track video recorder.

Still find I’m over driving my front tires. Still quite a bit of shoulder wear. Not sure if I should run more negative camber or adjust my compression/rebound.

[bimmerboyE92]

Try both! The compression you can try right away. I’ve done track weekends where I never went out on the exact same shock settings for any of the sessions. Once you get a feel for what shocks can do for you, next event try a different alignment. It’s hard to change alignment at the track because it’s kinda time consuming. Maybe a tow change with toe plates but camber is tough. The other thing I often change is rear ride height.

But yes, just enjoy the car and learn to drive around its limits. If you’re eating front tires quicker than rear, go in a little slower, power out with throttle steer, and cook the rears a little more. I bet your lap times will be equal and tires will last slightly longer.

See attached graph…

[markw10702]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

Ran my second track day. First time using a timer/track video recorder.

Still find I’m over driving my front tires. Still quite a bit of shoulder wear. Not sure if I should run my negative camber or adjust my compression/rebound.

Adjusting damper compression / rebound will not significantly reduce front tire wear. You can dial out some understeer with these adjustment, but more front negative camber and tire pressure adjustments will yield better results. Get a laser temp gauge and use it after each session to scan tire temps (outside, middle, inside). This will help you optimize tire pressure. I don't have experience with the 3Rs (if they are soft sidewall or hard sidewall). Understanding your tread temps will also help fine tune tire pressure.

You didn't mention sway bars - type and adjustment. Understeer can also be impacted if your bars are not optimal. Spring rates? This is another area that can be tweaked to move the chassis into a more neutral state.

Ideally, a wider front tire (up to matching the rear sizing) is where you want to be.

[heyyouduh]

How many of you tracking stock or near stock engines have some sort of crank hub work (crank bolt capture vs ssr crank hub)? Been trying to see which posters in this forum have worried enough about their crank hubs to do something

[bimmerboyE92]

100% stock civic S55 including air filters and exhaust. I’m in the id it ain’t broke don’t fix it camp as this car has 20k miles. At around 10k it became a trailer track only car.

[MaX PL]

I too have a 7 year old stock civic with no crank hub fix.

[uncle ben]

No crank hub fix. But I have a CBC to install once I’m off warranty.

[uncle ben]

Picked up some second hand track wheels for a price I couldn’t turn down. $1100 ($1500 Canadian). Came was a set of 275/305 nitto nt-01’s with a little meat left on them. Really excited to line up another track day and try them out.

[uncle ben]

Ran the nt01’s for a half track day. The fronts corded on the inside. Not sure if they were really worn before I got them as they were used. They were no faster than my eagle f1 super car 3 tires.

I booked my car to have a full corner balance and height adjustment and alignment. Hopefully this will optimize everything and make the new set of nt-01’s last as long as possible.

[uncle ben]

2.5 front 1.7 rear camber, 0 toe front, 0.16’ toe rear. Rear raised slightly to add 1/2” rake.











Car felt easier to transition from left to right, or alternating corners. Also more mid corner stability. When the tires started to get really hot, the car would understeer as opposed to oversteer. Overall very happy with how it turned out. I wasn’t expecting the added cost of having to buy sway bar end links ($750), but I’m happy with the corner balance and alignment which ran $980.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

^^ get those brake dust shields removed to help with cooling. It's a free upgrade so you can save that $5000 for blow.

[uncle ben]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

^^ get those brake dust shields removed to help with cooling. It's a free upgrade so you can save that $5000 for blow.

Well I am replacing both front wheel bearings next week, so I guess I can just not put them back on when I’m done replacing the bearings.👍

Also 5k on blow would have been much cheaper than tracking my car. Pretty sure I’m at double that just on parts alone.