Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

I was going to search in my posts circa 2016, then I said lets google -> some chap was nice to put it on YT

Ha, that FaRKle! guy!

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

Ha, that FaRKle! guy!

tbh don't know who they are, just took the 1st link that was spot on. It saved me to write a bit

Analysis (to be taken w some grain of salt, we discussed this many years ago): Although all my fill ups over 8 years have been mostly 91 w a bit of 94, it shows equal distribution over the three grades. The last fill up was grade 2 (medium), the 4 before were Grade 3 (high). Gas station is the same.

ISTA has a Note in the FUB that those are not concrete values for RON/MON/AKI and are only a guideline.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

tbh don't know who they are, just took the 1st link that was spot on. It saved me to write a bit

Analysis (to be taken w some grain of salt, we discussed this many years ago): Although all my fill ups over 8 years have been mostly 91 w a bit of 94, it shows equal distribution over the three grades. The last fill up was grade 2 (medium), the 4 before were Grade 3 (high). Gas station is the same.

ISTA has a Note in the FUB that those are not concrete values for RON/MON/AKI and are only a guideline.

Yeah ISTA is taking the ECU decision value from the knock sensor. It doesn't have the resolution like BM3's ethanol gage. Definitely going to try this when I get a chance.

[aboulfad]

The fact that last fuel grade was 2 & fuel economy was much less when oil changed can't be used as a determining factor. ISTA reports 1/3 of my fill ups as Grade 1 (low) when I never previously experienced such low FE.

[Tim_M56]

Coming up on my next oil change now, previously I did Castrol 0W-40 and have been happy with it, pretty much close to zero oil consumption, warms up well, and so on. From what I read here, looks like Mobil 1 is a good choice now? Looking for a daily driver oil for the warm and cold New England weather with a lot of spirited driving.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by TimmyM56

Coming up on my next oil change now, previously I did Castrol 0W-40 and have been happy with it, pretty much close to zero oil consumption, warms up well, and so on. From what I read here, looks like Mobil 1 is a good choice now? Looking for a daily driver oil for the warm and cold New England weather with a lot of spirited driving.

Mobil 1 0w-40 has a slightly higher KV100 so I’d go with that.

Castrol 0w-40 no longer carries LL-01.

Castrol 0w-40 is thinner than the 5w-40 so the ranking is Mobil 1 0w40, Castrol 5w40 LL-01 then Castrol 0w40.

[swagon]

Currently running Ravenol RUP 5W40, the Germans seem to swear by this oil.

Before, I've always run Castrol Edge 0W40 which is now hard to get and Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 which made the engine idle slightly rougher in comparison.

S55 EU non-OPF

[Dasky_spas]

Not sure if n63tu3 are different in tolerances but based on kv100 ( lower is better as to not hold heat) and a 3.5 to 4 for hths, the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 seems best, that or the Motul xcess gen2.

The ppe has 3.8hths and a low 13 kv100. That and a affordable price to boot. Given I'm running tune, and downpipes, the extra weight will be helpful. Is the ppe considered a light 40?

[Dasky_spas]

Also not sure if it was this thread or another but someone gave concern to Motul Xcess g2 very high calcium content. Is this something to be worried about?

We're approaching colder climate now in the north east and according to what I'm seeing here, the motul is thicker so cold starts might be rough in lower temps however,at what temps should we start to be concerned?

I'm thinking PPE 5w40 is the best oil given the stats and closeness to 30 weight.

[1heckinboi]

Did my first oil change on mine today and wanted to thank all the knowledge and insight in this thread, ended up putting in PPE 5W40. Would've gotten Castrol but attaining it was rough, even getting PPE was a challenge.

Also just wanted to add if anyone else was curious about it, I installed a Stahlbus drain plug, I've ran Fumotos on all my previous cars but unfortunately that wouldn't work as well on this pan. I didn't measure the clearance afterwards but it's comfortable with me, nothing extreme

[forcefed]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

From ISTA version 4.42 (circa 06/23), attached is the BMW LL-01 Approved Oils.

Do you have the LL-01 FE list?

[Dasky_spas]

I reached out to Pennzoil on their euro 5w40 htst rating and they wouldn't provide it. They did provide a different value though:

HTHS viscosity = 2.3 mPa.s min @ 150 deg C

[Innovade]

Originally Posted by 1heckinboi

Did my first oil change on mine today and wanted to thank all the knowledge and insight in this thread, ended up putting in PPE 5W40. Would've gotten Castrol but attaining it was rough, even getting PPE was a challenge.

Also just wanted to add if anyone else was curious about it, I installed a Stahlbus drain plug, I've ran Fumotos on all my previous cars but unfortunately that wouldn't work as well on this pan. I didn't measure the clearance afterwards but it's comfortable with me, nothing extreme

Hey, just curious, is this the lowest point of the car? My car is lowered and I would worry about this scraping. Looks like an awesome product though and well-engineered.

[1heckinboi]

Originally Posted by Innovade

Hey, just curious, is this the lowest point of the car? My car is lowered and I would worry about this scraping. Looks like an awesome product though and well-engineered.

I would need to double check but it is a few millimeters past the front jack point, to be honest if I took off the dust cap it may even become flush with the under shield. I haven't had any issues though on stock height

Also wanted to point out this isn't the most levelled photo of it either so it may look worse in that photo

[strada]

Have been running Castrol 0w-40 for past couple years - sent a UOA. Results attached, any opinions? Sample was after short drive to warm up oil, so may explain the fuel?

Seems like move is to switch to Mobil 0w-40 now? Is that the Euro formula?

[GreyblackM4]

Just reading up on this again since I last posted. I just did my oil change with access Gen 2 5W-40, and it seems as though Castrol Edge 0W-30 or PPE 5W40 or BMW TPT 0W30 or Motul Specific 5W30 are the better choices if I’m not tracking my car?

I’m in Canada and don’t drive the cars until the temps are about 41F, with my main drive being to the gym and back (6 miles each way). I’ve noticed it takes longer for the oil to get up to temp with such a short drive.

Will leaving the Motul Xcess Gen 2 5W-40 cause harm to the engine or should I just leave it and swap to Castrol 0W-30 or Motul Specific 5W30 or BMW TPT 0W30 or PPE 5W40 next oil change?

[FrankMstein]

ok edycol I have the big question. Still waiting on the edycol ultimate oil bible thread post.
Anyway, I drive a tuned F80 7-8000/year and 4-5 track days per year in 40-95deg wx. This is not my primary car, but w/e car. What do I use? Castrol edge, or Motul Sport, or 8100 XG2 5-40 or what, and the OCI?

Another is that my wife has an R56 Mini stock DI crap French engine that gets about 7-8000/year 95% street and 5% Dragon miles. I really DO NOT want to blast valves again! What do I use in that?

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by edycol

First, if you look in your manual you will see somewhere not to use additives. Let me explain why.
Flush chemicals are used when you have a dead engine, and that is your last option to see if you can bring it from dead. In the healthy engine, flush chemicals can dislodge some deposits that are a normal byproducts of lubrication, and those deposits can get stuck in oil lines and temper lubrication. That is why you should never flush the transmission, but always replenish fluid, meaning replace whatever you released from the transmission.
Additives? All good oils, approved oils, have carefully balanced additives. When you introduce anything to oil, you messed up that balance. Oxidation is messed up (potential sludge), detergent and dispersant properties etc. You actually have no idea how that additive will react with particular oil in your sump. Everything you need for an engine, you have in regular oil.
Liqui Moly? I put them with K&N. In 1990's Liqui Moly was one company that jumped on Group III oils like no other. Another thing they did is ridiculous and shameless marketing. Their oils are mediocre at best, and ANYTHING LL01 or MB229.5 in Wal Mart is actually better than ANYTHING Liqui Moly offers. Their performance numbers are average, their explanation of what is approved and what not is always iffy, and most important performance numbers they always list as a minimum requirement and not what actual performance level of oil is (HTHS is particular). When I worked on oil testing we used a lot of German oils as point of reference and Germans never had engine oils that are on par big names. They really know how to make specialty fluids like brake fluid, steering wheel fluid etc. Liqui Moly was always oil that was one of the easiest to outdo when the company I worked for developed oils. Nothing special, and for money they wanted for their product, one could get much better stuff.
One thing people have to understand is that Mobil1, Castrol, Motul, Pennzoil (Shell), Total, etc. are not big names for no reason. These companies are in motorsport for more than a century, and when one has such know-how it shows. When a company starts to cheap out, they end up like Quaker State or Pennzoil, in ownership of Shell. To think that Liqui Moly has R&D potential like these companies is ridiculous.
WHat you paying is that oversized Made in Germany sign. That is it.

edycol Two questions:
1. Is LM<WalMart still?
2. Suggestions on what to use in an F80 6MT transmission tracked ~5 times a year in 20deg F and up climate?
Is this still a relevant comment 2.5 years ago?

"Motul proved good.
But, problem with DCTF is low viscosity. In manual you need resistance.
What does sticker says on transmission? MTF LT-5?
I would go this if you going Motul:

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/produ...gh-torque-dctf

But, not sure why Redline is not recommending MT-LV or MT-90. IMO MT-LV or MT-90 would be better under those conditions, but not sure is there issue with certain materials in gearbox.
I would definitely try Motul DCTF first.
Also, Amsoil makes excellent gear stuff. See how Motul works, if not, try this:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/100-synthetic-dct-fluid-dct/

If all that fails, I would search around to see if anyone used Redline MT-LV or MT-90 with no issues.
Take into consideration that bimmerworld has on sale Pentosin MTF LT-5. Pentosin makes great stuff."

[edycol]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

edycol Two questions:
1. Is LM<WalMart still?
2. Suggestions on what to use in an F80 6MT transmission tracked ~5 times a year in 20deg F and up climate?
Is this still a relevant comment 2.5 years ago?

"Motul proved good.
But, problem with DCTF is low viscosity. In manual you need resistance.
What does sticker says on transmission? MTF LT-5?
I would go this if you going Motul:

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/produ...gh-torque-dctf

But, not sure why Redline is not recommending MT-LV or MT-90. IMO MT-LV or MT-90 would be better under those conditions, but not sure is there issue with certain materials in gearbox.
I would definitely try Motul DCTF first.
Also, Amsoil makes excellent gear stuff. See how Motul works, if not, try this:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/100-synthetic-dct-fluid-dct/

If all that fails, I would search around to see if anyone used Redline MT-LV or MT-90 with no issues.
Take into consideration that bimmerworld has on sale Pentosin MTF LT-5. Pentosin makes great stuff."

Hey,

Sorry for late response.
I think this still applies. I don't have F series so did not scoop around if someone is using anything else but DCT fluid. Motul, Redline, Pentoisn, IDK, pick something that will be warmer around your heart
The only reason why I mentioned thicker fluid is shifting in manual. As for wear etc, it is manual, nothing will happen on track, well besides clutch etc.

[ericold]

mine is manual transmission MTF LT-3.but in motul page suggests dctf.its awkward,i dont have automatic gearbox.

but if i search on google with 'manual transmission MTF LT-3'' then i get this:MOTYLGEAR 75W-80
which is thicker as you describe.

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...0_20210713.pdf

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by strada

Have been running Castrol 0w-40 for past couple years - sent a UOA. Results attached, any opinions? Sample was after short drive to warm up oil, so may explain the fuel?

Seems like move is to switch to Mobil 0w-40 now? Is that the Euro formula?

My take on it is that after a 5,000 mile OCI, your viscosity is low and it is on the low end of a 30W after 5,000 miles. I wouldn't go 7,000 miles since the oil will likely shear down to a 20W after another couple of thousand miles.

Mobil 1 0W-40 (LL-01) is what I would try since it is the thickest of the big oil company oils that meet LL-01. You can get it at Walmart.

I'd probably also change it a little earlier to see how viscosity is holding up after 4,000 miles.

[Wanted_M]

Originally Posted by 1heckinboi

Also just wanted to add if anyone else was curious about it, I installed a Stahlbus drain plug, I've ran Fumotos on all my previous cars but unfortunately that wouldn't work as well on this pan. I didn't measure the clearance afterwards but it's comfortable with me, nothing extreme

The Stahlbus drain is awesome, had it installed on my last car and loved it. No spills or messy hands. I'm buying one shortly, is this the one you bought?

https://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drai...steel-set.html