08-28-2016, 04:41 PM | #1 |
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Was swapping my front RS29s today and noticed that on both sides the outer piston seals look damaged, especially the bottom ones. The inner side is fine.
Why has this happened? Overheating? How bad is this? Do I need to have it repaired immediately? Is it possible to repair the seals only without having to replace the whole caliper? |
08-28-2016, 05:03 PM | #2 |
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Of course you don't need to change the whole caliper.
Seals are dirt cheap, and not that bad to do a rebuild. Last spring I rebuild 1 caliper in my previous Lexus, and all of the calipers in my S2000. However seeing that with less than 100k miles is odd to say the least. In any case, have them fix it asap to save the piston with the damaged seal. If dust and humidity goes in it screws up the piston and then (after a long abuse) it seizes. Even if the piston is screwed (surface beyond polishing) then you can get one for not insane money, so again no biggie. |
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08-28-2016, 08:38 PM | #3 |
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Those are the outer dust boots in the pictures , the piston seal is a square cut seal inside the caliper that you can access when the piston is removed. Replacing the dust boots is not too bad and pretty cheap if you decide to DIY. If you go for a total rebuild than replace the piston seal also
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08-29-2016, 04:23 AM | #4 |
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The dust seals are really a consumable item on track cars. They get worn and need replacing every now and again.
For steel brakes you need the repair kit, pn 34116850935 That is number 12 in this diagram from real oem http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_2199 |
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08-29-2016, 05:16 AM | #5 | |
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Is there a DIY for this? |
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09-19-2016, 04:16 PM | #7 |
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09-20-2016, 05:12 AM | #8 | |
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Are you 100% sure I have to take the caliper apart to replace them? have you done it before on this model? |
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09-21-2016, 02:24 PM | #9 | |
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Race calipers don't use the boots for this same reason(heat will destroy any dust boot). What you have to do is just to keep up with the bleeding and flushing of the brake fluid. Yes, without dust boots there is a higher chance of foreign elements entering the brake hydraulic system, but the bleed and/or flush will get most of not all of it out. That is why race teams will do a complete flush after each test/race day. The seals should last a long time as long as you stick to a good bleed/flush schedule. |
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08-20-2018, 05:46 PM | #11 |
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Did this ever get resolved? I am having the same issue.
Are the high temp gray or blue dust boots worth getting installed? I read the blue ones you have to be careful with the brake fluid, is this true? |
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10-19-2018, 03:26 AM | #12 | |
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Needless to say they got destroyed again after a few trackdays, so quite pointless to put back OEM. I have no experience with upgraded ones. |
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