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11-28-2018, 04:07 AM | #1 |
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Finally, she's here! (M4 Competition Package, San Marino Blue)
Finally collected the new M4 Competition Package a week and a half ago!
After plenty of advice from you guys on here, I ended up opting for: - San Marino Blue - Silverstone Extended Leather - Black 666Ms I'm glad I made that choice in the end, as it looks FANTASTIC. Pics attached for you all to enjoy! I was previously a pretty active forum user before when I had my old M235i - I'll try to boost that activity again now that I've got my M4! Not sure what my plans are for the car quite yet, but watch this space! I do have a few initial questions that you guys might be able to help with: The dreaded and controversial "break in" topic... I'm aware that there are so many conflicting opinions on this, so let's hope I'm not opening a can of worms here. I owned my previous BMW, my M235i, from brand new/factory. I followed the recommended break in procedure pretty reliably and went very easily until around the 1500 mile mark. It later became evident that this may not have been such a good plan, as the car burned oil big time. I would have to top it up at least once between services, usually twice, which wasn't ideal. The M4 is now nearly at 400 miles already. Unfortunately, on the day of collection I had to practically sit in traffic for the entire afternoon (roadworks ), so that wasn't the ideal start. Since then I've tried to vary the driving style as much as possible, always making sure the car is warm first of course. It's had a few harder runs up to about 6,500rpm, about one trip almost to the red line (I mean it's hard not to right ). It's not been easy at all though as I do a daily 20 mile round trip that consists almost entirely of your standard dual carriageway, littered with your usual 60mph in a 70mph zone idiots that entirely prevent you making any decent progress . Anyway, I'm not particularly picky about the whole break in stuff these days. My key aim here is to avoid what happened with my M235i - to avoid oil burning issues and make sure the car is running strong, no lack in power whatsoever. So with the above considered, what's the best plan? Keep doing what I'm doing? Noisy/clunky DCT? My DCT makes one hell of a clunk, especially when starting up (with start/stop enabled). It literally sounds like it's going to burst through the floor of the car, you can even feel the clunk through the centre armrest! I know the DCT will always be a little more clunky than say a DSG box, but this seems excessive! Any thoughts? Excessively squeaky brakes? Good lord my brakes are squeaky, particularly at low speed. Worse than any car I've ever owned! It's running the standard M brakes, not the carbon ceramics. Normal or not? Thanks in advance! Last edited by lazyrhino; 11-28-2018 at 04:18 AM.. |
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11-28-2018, 06:10 AM | #3 |
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that looks sharp! great choice, congrats and enjoy
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lazyrhino57.50 |
11-28-2018, 06:18 AM | #4 |
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Great looking car, congrats!
Can't speak to the DCT since I've only had manual M cars, but my 2018 with standard brakes are not squeaky and I am the one who has put all the miles on the car...maybe something to have checked by the dealer. I also did quite a lot of varying RPM and speed during the break in, hopefully it will result in a car that doesn't burn that much oil, but only time will tell as I only have 3500km on it now.
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11-28-2018, 06:19 AM | #5 |
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The main challenge with the break in procedure (the alternative one that you/I subscribe to) is that they say most of it occurs in the first 20 or so miles (32km).
With regards to your brakes, are they the CCB?
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11-28-2018, 06:22 AM | #6 | |
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I'm hoping that hasn't messed me up! I don't have the carbon ceramics, just the standard M brakes. |
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11-28-2018, 09:17 AM | #7 | |
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And I agree on the way you are continuing to break it in. Sweet color too - and I bet you didn't have to pay a whole bunch of money for it either #lucky
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11-28-2018, 09:17 AM | #8 |
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Beautiful. Congrats
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11-28-2018, 09:21 AM | #9 | ||
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The brakes are mostly only bad when slow moving i.e. parking manoeuvres etc. Still loud though. Either way I'll make sure both are checked at the break in service! Thanks for the compliments - I'm in love with the colour! |
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11-28-2018, 09:23 AM | #10 |
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Dope. Can GB have bigger license plates though?? Those things are like billboards haha... do you have to run a front one?
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11-28-2018, 09:25 AM | #11 | |
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Both front and rear plates have to be displayed at all times in the UK - legal requirement! Additionally, the plates have to be a set reflective colour (white for front, yellow for rear), and the font size/text can only be that which is approved by the DVLA. You'll get fined if you don't adhere to all the above! |
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11-28-2018, 11:32 AM | #14 |
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11-28-2018, 12:02 PM | #16 |
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Thanks for all the replies.
I actually have a long 3 hours or so drive for work tomorrow. Just spoken with a mechanic friend who strongly recommends getting the car super warmed up (i.e. 30 mins of warming up) before then hammering the hell out of it. He thinks that the prime window for piston ring seating has been missed unfortunately, but now is still better than nothing! |
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11-28-2018, 07:23 PM | #17 | |
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11-28-2018, 07:28 PM | #18 | |
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Just as a habit, I always let me car warm up before hammering.
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11-30-2018, 12:14 PM | #22 |
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Thanks for all the compliments!
So I completed my long journey to Bristol and back yesterday - I did my level best to avoid staying at constant revs, and whilst she was all properly warmed up, gave her a good few hard runs up to around 6k rpm. I have to admit, this was no easy task on UK motorways in torrential rain! I know it's a boring old topic but I've never been so worried about making sure my engine is broken in correctly on a car - I've heard horror stories about low compression, power loss and oil burning. As per my previous post, desperate to avoid all this! |
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competition package, dct, f82, m4 competition, san marino blue |
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