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      08-14-2019, 06:41 PM   #441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
Nope, the intercooler should be cold to touch, even after back to back 40-140 pulls. Check the fluid level or have the dealer take a look at it!
Checked the fluid level, stable. Dealer checked it no problem. Took another M3 for test drive, same "touch" temp, not cold to the touch.
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      08-14-2019, 07:42 PM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo v6 View Post
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Originally Posted by WeekendWarriorz View Post
Nope, the intercooler should be cold to touch, even after back to back 40-140 pulls. Check the fluid level or have the dealer take a look at it!
Checked the fluid level, stable. Dealer checked it no problem. Took another M3 for test drive, same "touch" temp, not cold to the touch.
I find it interesting many observe theirs isn't "cool" to touch. I've always found mine to be cool or cold to touch even after driving it hard in hot summer days. Just one of those mysteries of the universe I suppose
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      08-14-2019, 08:33 PM   #443
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So mine was cool to the touch before I drove it all the way across the country and back recently, but decided to check it today and it seemed quite low. Not empty, but low. Alas, the regular coolant reservoir was low too. So, I topped off both and will have dealer examine on next visit.
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      09-17-2019, 04:32 PM   #444
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Dealer replaced mine for an internal leak. Car feels noticeably faster now feels like it got 3-4 pounds of boost back. I had no symptoms like a CEL and the fluid level was ok.
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      09-19-2019, 08:15 PM   #445
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An update to my posts above. First was cool to touch, second was low and top off. Car went in for other items yesterday (cruise control malfunction, dead wheel buttons, steering angle sensor) and had them look at mine. It was definitely leaking and is being replaced. If your fluid is low, I'd say you're probably leaking. My car is a 2018 (June, 2017 build) with just under 25k miles, all of which have been done in the past 13 months as car sat on lot for a year before I bought it.
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      09-22-2019, 11:01 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
As far as cleaning the intake tract goes, I think the GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner from CRC would help, seen here: https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05319.html I would think the deposits from the coolant are not as "tough" as carbon deposit buildup. I use this stuff every 5k miles in conjunction with my oil changes just for preventative maintenance as access to the intake close to the throttle body is very easy.
Where are you spraying it into? Seems like this could be a good regular maintenance item. As a separate PSA, I got mine back yesterday with the new charge cooler, and it definitely feels stronger...like omg I forgot how strong it was stronger. The new charge cooler also appears that it may be larger...don't know if BMW has changed design or not.
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      09-22-2019, 12:28 PM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82PRETEND View Post
Where are you spraying it into? Seems like this could be a good regular maintenance item. As a separate PSA, I got mine back yesterday with the new charge cooler, and it definitely feels stronger...like omg I forgot how strong it was stronger. The new charge cooler also appears that it may be larger...don't know if BMW has changed design or not.
I inject the chemical at the MAP sensor port on the charge cooler. I did a short DIY of how I use this stuff here: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1640183
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      09-22-2019, 02:10 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82PRETEND View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
As far as cleaning the intake tract goes, I think the GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner from CRC would help, seen here: https://www.crcindustries.com/products/gdi-ivd-174-intake-valve-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05319.html I would think the deposits from the coolant are not as "tough" as carbon deposit buildup. I use this stuff every 5k miles in conjunction with my oil changes just for preventative maintenance as access to the intake close to the throttle body is very easy.
Where are you spraying it into? Seems like this could be a good regular maintenance item. As a separate PSA, I got mine back yesterday with the new charge cooler, and it definitely feels stronger...like omg I forgot how strong it was stronger. The new charge cooler also appears that it may be larger...don't know if BMW has changed design or not.
I was just at dealership and while we were talking the foreman stated there was indeed an updated charge cooler. I can't exactly remember the changes, thought he spoke about welds being weak internally somewhere.
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      09-22-2019, 02:17 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
I inject the chemical at the MAP sensor port on the charge cooler. I did a short DIY of how I use this stuff here: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1640183
Awesome, thanks! Sorry I forgot to bother to search and find your thread. Seems to be the same basic procedure as the old Seafoam stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ra2289 View Post
I was just at dealership and while we were talking the foreman stated there was indeed an updated charge cooler. I can't exactly remember the changes, thought he spoke about welds being weak internally somewhere.
Interesting...wondering as well.
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      09-22-2019, 05:38 PM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ra2289 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by F82PRETEND View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
As far as cleaning the intake tract goes, I think the GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner from CRC would help, seen here: https://www.crcindustries.com/products/gdi-ivd-174-intake-valve-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05319.html I would think the deposits from the coolant are not as "tough" as carbon deposit buildup. I use this stuff every 5k miles in conjunction with my oil changes just for preventative maintenance as access to the intake close to the throttle body is very easy.
Where are you spraying it into? Seems like this could be a good regular maintenance item. As a separate PSA, I got mine back yesterday with the new charge cooler, and it definitely feels stronger...like omg I forgot how strong it was stronger. The new charge cooler also appears that it may be larger...don't know if BMW has changed design or not.
I was just at dealership and while we were talking the foreman stated there was indeed an updated charge cooler. I can't exactly remember the changes, thought he spoke about welds being weak internally somewhere.
Well, there is a superseded part number for the charge cooler on RealOEM. But the superseded part was from back in 2015....
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      09-22-2019, 10:01 PM   #451
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Yeah, not sure about the updated part number and if that was what the foreman was referring to.
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      09-23-2019, 08:24 PM   #452
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Mine just went in after fluid disappearing, and leaking charge cooler was diagnosed and replaced. Thx OP for the reminder to check this.

Cheers
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      10-14-2019, 04:20 PM   #453
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+1 to owners with this issue. 2016 F83, 37k miles.

I got the limp mode message without any prior warnings. I took it in, and they found it was low on coolant, they ran some tests but didn't find any leaks. After I got it back it was fine for about a week and then the issue came back. Took it in today and now they are going to replace the charge air cooler.

It is under warranty, so all good, just very annoying that there are no warnings before the limp mode, and that they didn't immediately identify the core issue. My dealer is a big one so it is not like my car would have been the first with this issue.
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      10-29-2019, 08:12 AM   #454
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Drive Train Malfunction

Wow, my 2016 M4 has 36K miles and had exactly the same experience, low fluid- drive train malfunction, dealer checked OK, 3 weeks later got malfunction again, no fluid in reservoir and now dealer has found it to be leaking and is currently replacing it. I do hope the replacement is an improved version.
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      10-29-2019, 08:27 AM   #455
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Upgraded mine to prevent this issue.

Name:  engine.jpg
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      10-29-2019, 08:31 AM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmciver View Post
I inject the chemical at the MAP sensor port on the charge cooler. I did a short DIY of how I use this stuff here: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1640183
Just did this over the weekend. I'd recommend this for those that are concerned about fluid having leaked into the intake/engine. Car is very happy after the procedure. Will plan on doing this regularly. Thanks jmciver!
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      10-29-2019, 11:24 AM   #457
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I had a low coolant message pop up last week with no leaks. Topped it off and didn't think twice. Looks like I'll be checking for a leaking intercooler this weekend. Any aftermarket recommendations? Every thread I can find seems to suggest that all of the aftermarket intercoolers are junk. What are the best options?
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      10-30-2019, 01:49 PM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicck_f82 View Post
Upgraded mine to prevent this issue.

Attachment 2169102
Nice! That looks like the EOS one?
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      10-30-2019, 02:12 PM   #459
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Good thread.. will keep an eye on my levels.
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      10-30-2019, 10:57 PM   #460
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Nice! That looks like the EOS one?[/QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevM2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sicck_f82 View Post
Upgraded mine to prevent this issue.

Attachment 2169102
Nice! That looks like the EOS one?
VRSF.
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      11-29-2019, 09:20 AM   #461
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My car is currently at the dealer being diagnosed and I am suspecting a leaking charge cooler. For those of you that had to pay out of pocket, how much was it?

I am at 53K miles and was wondering about my chances having BMW NA potentially goodwill the repair or a even just portion?

Thanks!
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      11-29-2019, 01:42 PM   #462
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Just speculation (actually its based on another water-to-air system from another platform, but the science and simplicity is the same..., found out the issue through luck)

The unit will leak at its weakest point, this isn't due to actual turbo boost pressure, but pressure within the water loop itself after the coolant pump shuts off, which creates that pressure. You could simply just create an overflow line by drilling the top-most side of the tank (or cap) and run a line 3-4" long, which would allow fluids to spill over after the pump shuts off. Once the pump triggers on, the fluid in that line will be sucked back into the loop via vacuum created in the system.

Cheap and simple, and would avoid risking aftermarket solutions, which apparently are utilizing bar-n-plate coolers, which means there is less surface area to cool the intake charge....
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